dicel87

Well Known Member
I was reading through the Tiger (Yankee) web site and noticed they refer to their construction technique aluminum bonded. I know its a metal plane and that they must use rivets, but what is this method that makes it appear that there are no rivets used?

Here is the link
http://www.tigeraircraft.com/1.html
 
dicel87 said:
I was reading through the Tiger (Yankee) web site and noticed they refer to their construction technique aluminum bonded. I know its a metal plane and that they must use rivets, but what is this method that makes it appear that there are no rivets used?

Here is the link
http://www.tigeraircraft.com/1.html
For the most part, there are no rivets. It's glued together.
-mike
 
Looks like it is bonded aluminum panels over a honeycomb core- similiar to composite construction, same system also used to make rotor blades.
 
Mike is right, it is glued together. ALL surfaces are bonded to a honeycomb structure with a special glue-type bonding agent. It's really strong, but there is an issue called delamination that can occur as the airframe ages. If this happens, it's mucho dinero to fix it. The later models are much less prone to this, but it's still a bonded structure.
 
cjensen said:
It's really strong, but there is an issue called delamination that can occur as the airframe ages. If this happens, it's mucho dinero to fix it.

Maybe adding a few rivets wouldn't hurt :D

They could even do what Van did and use lot's of rivets.. like around 10 billion! as used in the typical RV. ;)
 
Actually the typical RV uses approximately 15,000 rivets. Someone with too much time on his hands suposedly counted them.
Mel...DAR
 
Actually, this response probably just shows that I have way too much time on MY hands (it's summer and I'm a teacher), but the number of rivets would probably be pretty easy to figure out. Just use Van's inventory lists--one would have to estimate the number of rivets per pound for all but the pulled rivets, but a pretty close estimate could be obtained.

That said, count rivets or go work on my tanks??? I'll take Mel's number as good and go work on my tanks some more. :) Somebody else want to count?

Steve
 
1911 Pilot

Jeff,

Just an FYI that even though you saw "billions of rivets", I was still short, (believe it or not) on many different sizes/rivets during the empennage. I ordered a few here and there, until I just decided to make a mass order of ALL sizes, so I would not run short again during future sections of the plane.

This was a shortage that was not due to losing rivets, drilling out bad rivets, etc. Just simply a shortage from the factory for whatever reasons. They sell rivets by weight, and I guess that during the packing process, the scales were off just a little bit?

The good news? You can buy extra rivets REALLY cheap, and have a good quantity built up. Now, the POP-style rivets get a little pricey (and I was short about a dozen of the LP-3's) but the regular aluminum rivets are very inexpensive. Just some food for thought. There's nothing more frustrating than being slowed down during a good buidling weekend by a shortage of rivets! Keep an eye on your quantities.
 
Mel said:
Actually the typical RV uses approximately 15,000 rivets. Someone with too much time on his hands suposedly counted them.
Mel...DAR

C'mon, Mel! When you FINALLY finish building, and you're sitting around in the hangar twiddling your thumbs with nuthin' but time...oh, yeah! Go FLYING!!!

Jeff
Gone flying----------
 
Tiger Construction

The generic repair technique for the Tiger structure is similar to Vans RV tanks....
Repair with bonded joints using ProSeal and 3/32 small head (oops) rivets countersunk into the outer skin.

Paint stripping can also be a problem if not done right by the paint shop, the stripper can un-bond the joints.

gil in Tucson ...
Owner of Tiger N28478 - becoming N12GA - it's in the paint shop now.
Replaced the Tiger horizontal tail support bulkhead using the techniques above
 
There is a technical name for fasteners in a bonded structure just in case. They are called "chicken fasteners".

Bonded structures are the holy grail for airframe manufactures, but they are also very difficult to ensure quality because surface prep is so critical to the strength, and yet is so difficult to maintain uniform quality.

Imagine a world without rivets....
 
Bonding

I'm all for bonding stuff, but the main problem I have experienced with using glue instead of rivets is that there are no holes for clecos. This sometimes makes it very hard to hold stuff on tightly when you want to glue it. I'm sure there are some clever tricks out there that would help.
 
Bonding

My first engineering job was designing composite rotor blades for Boeing Vertol (all bonded - we didn't need no stinkin' chicken fasteners :). The 'secret' to good bonding is lot$ of $pecial tooling! Matched metal molds and fixtures to hold bonded surfaces together do a great job, but are a bit hard on the budget if you're only building one airframe. It also helps to have an autoclave (BIG pressurized oven) for curing.

The honeycomb construction used on the Yankee/Tiger is very efficient, but the skins are typically so thin that they are easily damaged, and the honeycomb is notorious for moisture related corosion and delaminations - and difficult to repair as already noted.

At McDonnell Douglas (now Boeing) we designed co-cured graphite composite structures for the AV8B Harrier. The horizontal stabilizer spars were layed-up on mandrels, then the skins were placed over them and cured in matched metal molds. The tooling was designed to come apart and be removed from the root end, leaving a one piece structure. Very elegant and efficient.

The elegance of Van's pre-drilled kits is NO tooling! Perfect for individuals building individual airframes, but that pretty much excludes bonding as a fastening technique. Now when you decide to bond anyway - like the canopy (which I also intend to do), it does require a bit of creativity (good job Mickey!!)

Dennis Glaeser
RV-7A Empennage done - waiting for Wings
 
Why can't the stiffeners in the rudder be bonded? With all of the cracked rudders on -4's it seems like bonding instead of riveting might help...

Chuck
 
Bonding

Now when you decide to bond anyway - like the canopy (which I also intend to do), it does require a bit of creativity
Putting on my canopy skirts is what is currently causing me some trouble. I think I have found a solution - using super magnets. They are quite powerful. Once I get back from OSH I'll give it a go. I can really see how bonding any kind of compound curve can be very challenging.
 
Process Dependant

As a former structures engineer in the aerospace industry I can tell you bonding is process dependant. What does that mean? It means if everything is perfect, controlled with complete quality control, you can get great strength, but metal bonding is intolerant to any deviations in the process: Temp, pressure, coverage, flow, mixture and surface prep.

Bonding also involves some kind of inspection and testing to assure strength in primary structure, which is impossible to do with just your bare eyeball. (Primary structure is anything that could ruin your day, in a big way, if it failed.) Delamination is hard to detect and the Grumman guy's do a simple field check with the tap of a quarter and the sound it makes. However real non-destructive testing requires eddy current or ultra sound and control samples. The operator of the equipment needs a high level of skill and experience. This is not available to the average builder or is real expensive.

Now take riveted structure: Easy to install, cheap, easy to inspect, reliable, repeatable process and not dependant on to much except a little skill by the "bucker" and "buck-ee". The down side, its labor intensive: drill, dis-assemble, de-burr & dimple all parts, re-assemble, cleco, and rivet.

The BD-4 is a home built that used bonded structure (with pop-rivets). http://www.bedecorp.com/designs/bd4/features.htmThe "military" bonding agent they mention I believe is pro-seal, the same stuff we use in our tanks.

Bottom line: learn, live and love the simple but elegant rivet: light, strong reliable with easy quality control.

Burrrrrrraaaaaaaaa, Burrrrrrrrrrraaaaaaa away Gents :D
 
Last edited:
gmcjetpilot said:
As a former structures engineer in the aerospace industry I can tell you bonding is process dependant. What does that mean? It means if everything is perfect, controlled with complete quality control, you can get great strength, but metal bonding is intolerant to any deviations in the process: Temp, pressure, coverage, flow, mixture and surface prep.........Bonding also involves some kind of inspection and testing to assure strength in primary structure, which is impossible to do with just your bare eyeball. (Primary structure is anything that could ruin your day, in a big way, if it failed.) Delamination is hard to detect.............. However real non-destructive testing requires eddy current or ultra sound and control samples. The operator of the equipment needs a high level of skill and experience. This is not avaiable to the average builder or it real expensive. :D

It is apparent you have been there. As an aerospace production worker, we were generally loathe to work on composite material. For too many years, I drilled holes and shot fasteners all over the F-18 and to a lessor extent, the AV-8B wing structures. Dirty like pencil lead and itchy too. Delamination was a constant threat and the repairs were ofter tedious.....generally reduced to injecting epoxy with a hypodermic needle to the delaminated layer. That sounds easy but it took some high dollar equipment to "see" the void/ delamination deep within the carbon fiber layers and the repair epoxy had to be injected at the precise depth to have any effect. I well remember a particular nearly completed F/A-18 wing that the Swiss Air Force representatives refused to buy because a single small delamination near the wing root where the titanium metal structure tied into the composite simply could not be repaired to the Swiss' exacting standards. Despite long negotiations, fruitless arm twisting, and a deep pricing discount, the destiny of that wing is not known to me. It wasn't interchangeable with ours because much of the structure was altered to conform to Swiss specifications.

Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
RV-8A empennage
 
Last edited:
Metal Bonds, pro seal and loctite

BJohnson said:
The same thing goes for composites, because each ply is essentially a bonded joint.

I would not rely on Pro Seal as a structural adhesive. It is way too soft. Loctite makes a good room temperature paste adhesive that is very good with aluminum and composites. It is Hysol EA 9394, see http://www.loctiteaero.com/Images/Datasheet_PDF/Hysol_EA_9394.pdf
I agree , you are right Pro Seal is not structural, but was told by a BD-4 builder they used it for that purpose to an extent. I go back to my original idea and opinion, don't rely on any bond, rivet it. :D

Boeing does not give credit to pro-seal (BMS-5-95) for strength even though test show increased strength of mechanical fastened joints with it. Boeing does give credit for improvement to joint fatigue life. It does develop a fair amount of shear strength. I agree Hysol or other bonds are more structural.

Thanks for pointing this out B, and I did not know about the Loctite trick. So for the record, don't use pro seal for structural bonds. However for wire bundle stand-offs for wire tie supports I use pro-seal to bond them to metal. Works well and last a long time.

Cheers George
 
Last edited:
Bonding rudder stiffeners

chuck said:
Why can't the stiffeners in the rudder be bonded? With all of the cracked rudders on -4's it seems like bonding instead of riveting might help...

Chuck

I'm not familiar with the cracking you reference, but if that is a problem, it wouldn't hurt to bond as well as rivet, and if the rivet holes aren't pre-punched, you could probably leave out half the rivets. If the holes are already there, bonding could still help because it provides a continuous load path. If the cracking is at the LE end of the rivet line, then maybe a load path between the stiffeners and the spar may be the answer.

Dennis Glaeser
 
gmcjetpilot said:
I agree , you are right Pro Seal is not structural, but was told by a BD-4 builder they used it for that purpose to an extent. I go back to my original idea and opinion, don't rely on any bond, rivet it. :D

Boeing does not give credit to pro-seal (BMS-5-95) for strength even though test show increased strength of mechanical fastened joints with it. Boeing does give credit for improvement to joint fatigue life. It does develop a fair amount of shear strength. I agree Hysol or other bonds are more structural.

Thanks for pointing this out B, and I did not know about the Loctite trick. So for the record, don't use pro seal for structural bonds. However for wire bundle stand-offs for wire tie supports I use pro-seal to bond them to metal. Works well and last a long time.

Cheers George


Pro-Seal (called out by it's MIL-Spec) IS the approved bonding agent for Grummans per a Service Kit.

It's strength is adequate for structural bonding in all cases except for peel strength. That is why the small "oops" rivets need to be added.

The combination is factory specified, FAA-aproved repair for structural members (my horizontal tail bulkhead is held on this way...)

Don't down play Pro-Seal just because it "seems" to soft. A hard, brittle adhesive (some epoxies) are not good either. Pro-Seal does seem to be relatively easy to use in the field, which is why it was probably specified for this application...

...gil in Tucson -- Tiger owner
 
Another cheap alternative that might work well- one of the urethane foam adhesives used to fill gaps in walls/around pipes available at any home center. Just shoot the foam into the voids between the stiffeners, but do not overdo it- the stuff REALLY expands.
 
Load path, structural or not

az_gila said:
Pro-Seal (called out by it's MIL-Spec) IS the approved bonding agent for Grummans per a Service Kit.

It's strength is adequate for structural bonding in all cases except for peel strength. That is why the small "oops" rivets need to be added.

The combination is factory specified, FAA-aproved repair for structural members (my horizontal tail bulkhead is held on this way...)

Don't down play Pro-Seal just because it "seems" to soft. A hard, brittle adhesive (some epoxies) are not good either. Pro-Seal does seem to be relatively easy to use in the field, which is why it was probably specified for this application......gil in Tucson -- Tiger owner
Gil I did not say it has NO structural application. As I said Boeing uses it in many joints and not just for sealing the fuel tank. It does help. But in the aerospace world, it's not considered a high strength adhisive but a "fay surface sealant". It is an epoxy and it does stick like crazy, with good shear strength. However as you point out not great tension or peel strength, but shear strength is a good thing. My guess is the repair on Grumman bonded structure is not for strength but to stop the de-lam from spreading, keep corrosion out (which proseal does very well) and keep it from flopping around. I also am guessing if the % area of the de-lam is too large you are SOL and in for a bigger repair. As an engineer who delt with the FAA I am sure the structures engineers proved that the "residual" strength was good enough even if the repair was not effective. I have never heard of a Grumman coming un-glued in flight. However with aging airframes it will be more an issue. Thus the one advantage of mechanical fasteners. Easy to repair, drill out, splice, patch, doublers, more rivets, etc.... No question of what the load path is.

DGlaeser said:
I'm not familiar with the cracking you reference, but if that is a problem, it wouldn't hurt to bond as well as rivet, and if the rivet holes aren't pre-punched, you could probably leave out half the rivets. If the holes are already there, bonding could still help because it provides a continuous load path. If the cracking is at the LE end of the rivet line, then maybe a load path between the stiffeners and the spar may be the answer.
Dennis Glaeser
You sound like a structures engineer :D with "load path". You are right, bonding (whether proseal or another adhesive) can help. The cracking of the rudder/elevator stiffeners at the trailing edge was when they used thinner skins and the builder layed out and drilled the hole pattern (pre pre-punch). Often the aft end rivet in the rudder and elevator stiffeners where way too far from the stiffener end. The skin flexed around the last stiffener rivet and cracked. With the pre-punch kits, Van controls the rivet space and stiffener edge distance on the last rivet. I bonded the last inch of my RV-7 rudder and elevator stiffeners with pro-seal, just at the trailing edge. This makes the stiffener effective to the bitter end and keeps the skin from flexing around the end rivet. As far as a load path between the rudder / elevator stiffeners to the spar at the leading edge (LE), not neccessary. The skin is thick enough not to "cripple" in compression. There is little flex in this area. From thousands of RV's flying and who knows how many flight hours, the forward rivet line on the stiffeners is not a problem, (TE) kind of. Build it per plans. You may want to consider using a thin bond sparingly here and there with pro-seal.

Cheers George
 
Last edited:
Bonding rudder stiffeners

gmcjetpilot said:
You sound like a structures engineer :D with "load path".

Guilty (although not doing that kind of work any more). Reading the posts above discussing F18 delaminations, ultrasonic inspections, coin-tapping, ... is 'deja-vu all over again' - as Yogi Bera would say.

I was wondering why Vans went with a two-piece rudder skin (thin) and the riveted TE. Now it makes more sense - it allows you to rivet the stiffeners all the way to the TE (pre-punched of course). I'm glad I bonded the TE wedge in place prior to the double-flush riveting - I'd make that a requirement, not just a recommendation (although I expect that most do it).

Dennis