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crabandy

Well Known Member
I had originally squeezed all the rivets on the lower hinge/firewall prior to mounting the engine mount. I removed the lower hinge and made a .063 plate with nutplates to attactch the lower cowl based on other builders experience with eyelets of the hinge breaking. What tricks are there to squeezing/riveting with the engine mount attatched?
 
I don't recall having any trouble reaching the lower firewall flange rivets with my no-hole yoke. I only had trouble with the lower side rivets. I pulled the mount off the firewall by an inch or so. With an engine hoist connected to the engine mount, took about an hour or so, but given the weight of the engine, it's probably best as a two-person job. If you have no slack in any wiring you've done, or if your engine control cables are installed and have no slack, pulling the mount is probably not a good option and you'll likely have to use pulled rivets. Hope this helps.
 
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No wiring yet, will try to borrow no hole yoke from a friend and if that doesn't work debate separating the engine and engine mount from the fuse to rivet/mount the do-dads from the firewall forward kit or just go simple and "pop" them on.
 
I grinded down and also narrowed the end of the no hole yoke to get to the rivets. That way I dind't have to loosen the engine mount.

The modified yoke came handy several times later during the build too.

For the lowest side-rivets, I used cherrymax pop-rivets. I wanted the extra strenght of the sherrymax rivets.
 
Screws & nuts

I know I replaced mine after rivet heads popped of in service on the cowl side of the hinge. Maybe a special bucking bar and a gun. You could consider screws and nuts instead of rivets.

Bob Axsom
 
Thanks for the replies, I may be able to buck the rivets but I will need both hands on the bar and have a partner on the gun. I also hindered access by riveting on the nutplates for the cowling on prior to fitting on the firewall.
 
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