[Av8torTom]

Hey Folks,

Getting ready to rivet my outer leading edge to the spar web. On the bottom of page 7-9 it says to use an off set rivet set. I assume this means that the rivet will be inserted from the forward side of the spar. It seems to me that it would be A LOT easier to insert the rivet from the aft side of the spar and buck on the forward side? Any help here???

Thanks

Tom

 

[terrye]

Leading edge ribs to spar flange

I will only use an offset rivet set as a last resort. Very difficult to control, if solo, almost impossible. I used a long (12") straight set (an 8" or 10" would have been better) which reduces the angle on the rivet head. All manufactured heads were on the aft side of the spar web. Tungsten bucking bar is essential inside the D section in my opinion. It is a very long reach to put your arm through the spar lightening hole and use a long rivet set. Luckily I have small arms so they fit (just). I think the inboard ribs would be much easier with two people. Also I made a wooden guide to insert between the tiedown AEX and the rib with reversible notches to hold the bucking bar aligned with the rivet. Much easier to make this guide with the leading edge off first. Guide can also be used for the inboard most ribs with a block of wood between it and the next rib. The guide makes it easy for the bucker (whether solo or with helper) to keep the bucking bar from dancing off the shop head and damaging the rivet. I think there's another post about the guide in more detail, sorry no pix. After the fact, I installed Van's vane type stall warner with the square access panel in the lower leading edge skin. Also installed the square access panel in the opposite wing to improve inspection/access. This access panel would make it MUCH easier to buck the inboard three rib rivets.

 

[bird]

rivet offset

I have used an offset on many occasions. I have found a way to help control it. The problem is it tends to rotate out of position as you are driving the rivet. So, I install it with the holding spring and then turn it to the position I need it to be then apply electrical tape on the set to the spring, wrap a few wraps of tape. Then, put a wrap or two on the spring to the gun itself. This will keep it from rotating. Different locations require it to be turned. To do this, I rotate the spring on the gun and the set will rotate with it because it is taped. If its just a little adjustment, up to 45 degrees or so, I don't even undo the tape. If its more I just unwrap the tape on spring to gun and re-apply after it is turned to the correct location. I have done this on all of my rv8 rib to spar by myself and it works fine for me. Just remember, lots of pressure on the gun and you should be fine. Hope this helps and happy building.

bird