The correct rivet length should be 1.5 times the diameter sticking out past the material before driving. A 1/8" rivet (AD4) should have 3/16".shiney said:On the W818 Aileron assembly (pushrod) the plans ask for AN470AD4-12 rivets but these look way too long to me! is this correct? I tried one and if it is correct how the !!!!!! do I stop these suckers from bending over during squeezing??
Thanks fellas
Shiney
Clamp the pushrods in a vise and shoot them. I found it much easier that way. Just my $.02.shiney said:how the !!!!!! do I stop these suckers from bending over during squeezing??
shiney said:On the W818 Aileron assembly (pushrod) the plans ask for AN470AD4-12 rivets but these look way too long to me! is this correct? I tried one and if it is correct how the !!!!!! do I stop these suckers from bending over during squeezing??
Thanks fellas
Shiney
shiney said:Thanks guys,
I'm thinking that as I'm likely to want to do some aeros (albeit light stuff) I'd rather go for the welding option than rivets. Has anyone done both for belt and braces?
Mel said:The correct rivet length should be 1.5 times the diameter sticking out past the material before driving. A 1/8" rivet (AD4) should have 3/16".
Captain Avgas said:That formula does not work for very long rivets. All "bucked" rivets fatten up inside the material being joined and this reduces the rivet metal available for forming the shop head. For nominal material thicknesses this "loss" of rivet metal is so marginal as to be insignificant
However when the total amount of material being joined is very thick (and hence the rivet is long) the loss of rivet metal can be so great that even a rivet that complies with the 1.5 rule will not have sufficient metal to form a complying head.