TerryWighs

Well Known Member
Well....finally did it. Mis-alignment of the dimple die with the C-frame. Just wished I had done it on the skin of one of the tail skins....instead of the underside of a TANK SKIN......AAARRRRhhhhhhh!!!!!
Very fixable, but I did realize, that I need to STOP working when I am getting tired....seems like that is when bad things happen...
 
Required hole...just not documented

Is there to let the evil vapors out. At least that's what I was told :). Mine is in the VS, left side (still remember after ten years).

b,
d
 
I had a friend did the same on a different kit ... he put another hole on the opposite part to match!:D
Think you can duplicate on the other tank? Just kidding!
We all have hidden got ya's ... I'm not telling where mine are :cool:
 
Mine was hidden

I hate to tell you this, but my extra hole is hidden by an overlapping wing skin. I hope I don't jinx the rest of the project.
 
Is there to let the evil vapors out. At least that's what I was told :). Mine is in the VS, left side (still remember after ten years).

b,
d

:eek:

I ended up replacing my right HS skin where this occurred due to a later, larger screw up. Does this mean I'm trapping the evil spirits?
 
I have two

It wasn't good enough that my plane have one, so it actually has two. My dad put one in the HS, but unlike the rest of my luck, it will be covered by the fairing.

The one that I did is on the fuselage side wall. I'm not saying where, but a sharp eye may spot it. (Unless of course I fill it, sand it, and paint it!)
 
Extra holes...

Actually, these are lightening holes (evil spirits--yeh, right!) and can improve your climb rate, etc. Care to guess why mine came in so light?

Bob Kelly
 
May I...

make a suggestion? I used to put the male die on top (pointing down) when making dimples with my C-frame, but after the same experience (extra hole) I switched. With the male die on the bottom of the C-frame (pointing up) I simply move the skin until the die protrudes through the rivet hole, bring the female die down, and give it a good whack with my 3 lb. sledge hammer. (Make sure the skin is facing the correct way - i.e. you're looking at the inside of the skin!) It's sometimes a pain to get the die through the hole, but with a little practice I'm pretty quick now. No worries with figure-8's or extra holes as gravity and the die now assist in keeping everything in line!

I hope this tip will helps somebody. :D
 
3lb sledge??!!!!!!

A 3lb sledge??!!! Holy Cow John Henry! :eek:

Seriously, use what you wish. I don't think it's possible to "overdimple" as the dies pretty much can't go beyond being mated. But for archive purposes, dimpling does not require a 3lb sledge, and it will likely tire you out. I use the plastic dead-blow I got in the toolkit from Avery. I give it a light tap to center the die in the hole, then a decent whack to dimple. Perfect every time, and it's light enough that I could do it all day. Sounds like tap-TAP It's pretty loud though, so I wear hearing protection and do it at neighbor-friendly hours.

Of course, using a DRDT2 dimpler gets rid of the hammer and the noise, but the standard C-Frame works fine. I do agree that the male die on bottom is the only way to go. Don't drag the skin across the die though, it will scratch. Pick the skin up and move it.

Bart
 
That motion with the DRDT can get pretty tiring after a couple hundred times!

I prefer the male end up as well. You do have to be careful about scratches, but you get really good alignment.
 
A 3lb sledge??!!! Holy Cow John Henry! :eek:

Seriously, use what you wish. I don't think it's possible to "overdimple" as the dies pretty much can't go beyond being mated. But for archive purposes, dimpling does not require a 3lb sledge, and it will likely tire you out. I use the plastic dead-blow I got in the toolkit from Avery. I give it a light tap to center the die in the hole, then a decent whack to dimple. Perfect every time, and it's light enough that I could do it all day. Sounds like tap-TAP It's pretty loud though, so I wear hearing protection and do it at neighbor-friendly hours.

Of course, using a DRDT2 dimpler gets rid of the hammer and the noise, but the standard C-Frame works fine. I do agree that the male die on bottom is the only way to go. Don't drag the skin across the die though, it will scratch. Pick the skin up and move it.

Bart

I agree. It's a little "overkill" but I'm stronger than the average builder! :rolleyes: Actually, I tried a deadblow hammer but didn't get a satisfactory dimple. With the 3lb sledge, I just choke-up on the handle and let gravity do all the work.
 
Hiding our sins

If you end up with an extra hole you can minimise its appearance by using your back-riveting plate and close it back up with the rivet gun.Dont over do it because you will thin out the metal and create a small "oil can" area if you're not careful. Or so I hear.:eek:
 
My girlfriend was dimpling wing skins for me last night, and managed to do it TWICE in ten holes :(

I was actually thinking about what would happen if you did it on a tank skin... if it's far enough from the original hole, just put a rivet in it, but most of the ones I've got are like 1/32" from the original hole... if it's one of those, how are you gonna seal it?
 
Bound to happen

Never did it with the dimpler but did with a 1/4" hole on the bottom of the fuselage on the wrong side of the firewall. Hole for gas overflow dump.

Fill, sand, paint....what hole?
 
Look on the bright side!

Well....finally did it. Mis-alignment of the dimple die with the C-frame. Just wished I had done it on the skin of one of the tail skins....instead of the underside of a TANK SKIN......AAARRRRhhhhhhh!!!!!
Very fixable, but I did realize, that I need to STOP working when I am getting tired....seems like that is when bad things happen...

At least its underneath where no one will see it...Make a "washer" from a piece of 32' skin and dimple it to match the new hole. Slap some proseal on and put a rivet in the hole.

Oh and forget about it...:)

Frank
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