HFS

Well Known Member
Probably already a well known fact, but I'll "throw" it out there, just in case ...

If you need to work on the brake cylinder assembly (Cleveland nomenclature) and have to disconnect the brake line, how can you minimize lost fluid during the procedure?

If you replace the reservoir "vent" with an NPT plug before disconnecting the line (at the cylinder assembly); and, have an end plug ready (37* AN type fitting) to immediately "cap" the open brake line, you may be surprised at how little (none?) brake fluid is lost. By plugging the filler neck, you are creating a "vacuum" at the top of the reservoir which prevents fluid from running out the bottom because you are not allowing any air volume increase at the top of the reservoir - which is required if fluid is lost from the open line. Capping the open end insures a complete seal of remaining fluid.

Think of the old "straw in a glass" trick, where you put a straw in a full glass of water, put your thumb over the top of the straw, and then withdraw the straw - the water in the straw is retained because of the "partial pressure" (read vacuum) produced in the volume above the water column.

The last time I had to remove one of the cylinder assemblies on my Rocket, I didn't lose any fluid; and, after filling the cavity in the cylinder assembly with brake fluid, was able to reconnect the brake line and didn't need to "bleed" any trapped air to produce a "hard" pedal.

YMMV - But this does work ...

HFS

My bad for not being more general, as hgerhardt pointed out - about anything that will seal off the inlet to the reservoir is all that is needed. A plug is one way, but as he pointed out, there are many others - pick one ...
 
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Actually a piece of mylar tape works well for this and is easier than a pipe plug. Clean the top of the boss on the reservoir where the vented plug normally goes with lacquer thinner or Coleman fuel and tape over the hole. I just went through this while replacing the old Matco brakes with Beringers. Lost a few drops at most. HFS's straw analogy is on point.
 
Actually a piece of mylar tape works well for this and is easier than a pipe plug. Clean the top of the boss on the reservoir where the vented plug normally goes with lacquer thinner or Coleman fuel and tape over the hole. I just went through this while replacing the old Matco brakes with Beringers. Lost a few drops at most. HFS's straw analogy is on point.
I agree in theory (and practice - sometimes), but not all "vents" are created equal - some of the truncated cone types don't lend themselves well to a tape "seal".

HFS
 
Just be sure to somehow flag the plane so you don't forget about the tape or plug.
Maybe some blue painters tape on the upper forward fuselage with a note written on it...
 
I agree in theory (and practice - sometimes), but not all "vents" are created equal - some of the truncated cone types don't lend themselves well to a tape "seal".

HFS
Sorry, apparently my description was too vague: I meant to remove the vented plug, clean the top of the boss of the reservoir, and apply tape to the flat part of the boss (without a plug in the hole). See my crude CAD model below.

Obviously (to me at least), you also need to use a non-porous tape, like clear mylar packing tape. Masking tape is slightly porous and won't work.

1718205808709.jpeg
 
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