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alpinelakespilot2000

Well Known Member
Is this restrictor fitting from Wick's appropriate for our manifold pressure needs? The only restrictors Van's sells are 45-degree fittings that do not fit in the MP port of some #4 cylinders. I know some people have made their own by filling fittings with JBWeld and then drilling a small hole, but I'm curious if this option from Wicks may be an even better way to go...
Shown on two pages:
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=9767/index.html
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=4727~subid=9767/index.html
 
I found the 45* unit would not work for my engine, made my own with PC7, drilled out with a .050 or so bit.

I did counter drill the fitting halfway through before I put the epoxy in, about .080--.100" larger, and plugged the smaller diameter remainder of the hole (with a drill bit that fit the original hole) at the step from the larger hole.

This only allowed the epoxy to go in the larger diameter section.

After the epoxy cured, I removed this drill/plug, and now the epoxy plug is trapped in the larger diameter portion of the fitting. This should keep the epoxy plug from being able to be sucked into the engine.
 
Steve,
I had that issue. The Van's 45deg restrictor wouldn't fit in my cylinder port either. I already had the Van's restrictor so I looked for a different solution.

I fitted a straight unrestricted fitting in the cylinder port and attached the hose to that. The restricted fitting is on the other end of the hose, The restricted fitting goes into a female-female 1/8NPT bulkhead fitting on the firewall. That gives a simple 1/8NPT setup for the in-cabin MP tubing to attach to.

I know that most EFIS/EMS manufacturers say you don't need the restricted MP line but I believe that the restriction does serve to steady the MP reading a bit.
 
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I made one using a rivet (AN5) and some epoxy. I filed down the diameter of the rivet to match the hole in the AN filling (I may have enlarged the hole a bit by drilling - can't remember), and then lightly pounded the riviet in with just a light coating of epoxy. I then cut/sawed off the head of the rivet, smoothed it, and drilled a small hole (1/16" dia) down the centerline. The light pounding sets the rivet very tightly and the epoxy ensures there are no gaps and helps ensure the rivet won't come loose.

I can't take any credit for this idea. Someone else posted this technique here a while back.
 
I did my restrictor using a needle and a brass tube that fit inside the tygon tube from engine fitting to dynon sensor. I made my restrictor soldering the needle inside th brass tube, I used this kind of restrictors long time ago on RC model turbines.
 
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