[Michael Burbidge]

I have to remove the three rivets connecting a wing rib to the rear spar. They are so close to the rib I'm not sure how to go about it? I don't have a rivet removal tool and it doesn't look like it would fit here. But I'd be happy to buy one to get these three rivets out cleanly.

I'm pretty nervous about removing these three rivets.

 

[Webb]

Grind 'em

What my old mechanic that is now retired told me - grind off the backside. Take your time and with a small hand grinder, take off the backside and then knock them out. Be sure not to damage the aluminum below the rivet.

I've also use a small bit and drilled them out the center of the hammered side and then broke the rivet with a punch just like you do from the manufactured side.

 

[Rick6a]

I have to remove the three rivets connecting a wing rib to the rear spar. They are so close to the rib I'm not sure how to go about it?......I'm pretty nervous about removing these three rivets.

Michael,

I consider a rivet removal tool an optional tool, a mere nicety to have. I can count on one hand the number of times I've used one and I've easily removed tens of hundreds of rivets over the years.

If you have not invested in a 90? or my favorite...a 45? angle drill motor, I suggest you get one. In so many ways, using the right drill motor makes general sheet metal aircraft construction much easier to accomplish and that includes accessing those three rivets for easy removal.

 

[Randy Hooper]

I would use a long #40 drill bit. It will flex enough to keep the chuck away from the rib.
Drill to the depth of the rivet head. Insert a 3/32 punch. Work the head until it breaks off. Pull the tail with a pair of duckbill pliers.

Randy Hooper

 

[dhall_polo]

consider drilling off the shop head too

You can drill off the head off either side, whichever side is more accessible. Using an angle drill, like Rick said, is also cool because you can hold the drill much closer to the action to keep the bit from slipping.

A friend also showed me a trick to drill down just part way into the rivet, and then stop drilling and see if you can snap the head off with a quick tilt of the drill bit. If not, drill a hair more and try again. Doing so will result in minimal harm to the hole in the wing.

 

[mcencula]

More info

I would use a long #40 drill bit. It will flex enough to keep the chuck away from the rib.
Drill to the depth of the rivet head. Insert a 3/32 punch. Work the head until it breaks off. Pull the tail with a pair of duckbill pliers.
Randy Hooper

In addition, you can use a small piece of wood, say 1/2 inch x 1 inch x 4 inches to guide the bit. Use the #40 bit to drill a hole through the 1 inch thickness very close to the end. Now when you run the long bit through the hole, you have a 4 inch "handle" to guide the bit so that the bit is straight up and down right above the rivet head.

After that, rinse & repeat, but with a #30 drill bit. At no time, should you drill any deeper than the rivet head with the #30 bit.

I was an aircraft structures mechanic in the Navy, so I got some good training on how to drill out rivets. A modified rivet drilling How-To is located here.

 

[DanH]

You don't need a rivet removal tool, but always give yourself an advantage when you can. The standard tubular rivet remover is a jig, a "drilling fixture" if you will. Jigs and fixtures are good. Some guys can easily nail the rivet center working freehand, some can't. Do what it takes for you.

If close quarters don't allow a standard removal tool, make one that fits. The goal is merely to center the drill on the rivet. Grab any short length of flat steel bar stock; 1/4" thick is fine. Drill a dimple near one end with a diameter just smaller than the rivet head. Now drill through the center of the dimple with the same size bit you'll use to drill the rivet. Lay the flat stock on the spar with the dimple over the rivet head, press down hard on it, and drill the rivet with a long bit.

 

[Michael Burbidge]

Amazing tip...

That was a great tip. I made one of the rivet removal tools like you suggested. It worked fantastic! Thanks for the tip.

 

[Robert M]

rivet removal

I would use a long #40 drill bit. It will flex enough to keep the chuck away from the rib.
Drill to the depth of the rivet head. Insert a 3/32 punch. Work the head until it breaks off. Pull the tail with a pair of duckbill pliers.

Randy Hooper

This is the same exact method I use for the 1/8" rivets. Works great.

 

[airguy]

I had to drill out my ribs (all of them) on my right wing main spar when the spar was defective and being replaced by Vans. I got pretty good at drilling out a rivet from the shop end, it's not as bad as you might think after a couple practice runs. I did actually drive a dozen into a piece of scrap and practice drilling them out first, using a center punch to start and a #40 bit for 4 size rivets, then oversizing to #30 till flush with the spar worked extremely well.

Of course, you've got to start with a straight shop head in the first place - if you kinked it over, you're SOL.