I wish you luck, let us know if this works.
Well, Greg this is a real challenge. You probably know this but just so it is stated . . think of it this way, the taper is a wedge, and the contact stress is massively (how about that for a number) multiplied by the force generated by the nut.
I have one in my tail spring. In talking to two different guys at the paint shop, one said - i removed the tail spring to paint it. The taper pin came out fine. [that is because I torqued it to 10 in-lb] I asked what torque he used to reassemble. "Standard torque" 25 in lb is standard but based on all the others, it was likely 30 in-lb.
The second guy said - -"just a warning, you have to take off the rudder to get the lower fairing on - I could not get out that taper pin."
How to remove - You can assume that it was highly torqued and contact stress is on the order of yield strength of 4130 (63,100 psi). The very reason they stay put. My plan would be to center punch and drill a #40 hole or #30 hole in the center of the taper pin, and drill 1/8" short of exiting the opposite end. Maybe more, we really don't want to break off the end. Then expand the hole until it nearly reaches the thread diameter. Lastly use or make a pin punch to fit in the hole and use it (with a heavy mass backer on top) to drive out the stress relieved pin. Twisting, heating, penetrating oil is useless for helping as both materials will expand the same.
I should say - make the pin from someone very strong - like "piano wire" it is on the order of 200ksi, so it can handle the pounding and not expand into the hole. Just leave a short piece extended so it is less likely to bend.
Oops - yours is in from the bottom, so needs to be driven from the top. This is more tricky - -OK - stress relief with a #30 bit will still help, but hammering from inside the fuse is an issue. I might compare tapers and use something like an
HF stepless taper drill to open up the large end with the intention of using the original taper reamer to work the hole larger until the wall is thin enough to easily be tapped through from the top. EEK! this is a tough one.
The Theory: Drilling the hole, relieves some of the contact stress, and using the pin punch tends to stretch the pin on impact thus reducing the diameter as it does so. Using this theory worked very successfully for me in removal of a couple of thousand VW valve guides.