Lionclaw

Lionclaw

Well Known Member
This is really a very basic question - How do i remove a stubborn oil quick-drain from my sump? The hex portion is aluminum, and I'm afraid that if I apply too much pressure it will round off the hex points (they're already smudging a bit). Due to the design of the quickdrain, I can only get an open-end wrench on it. I don't think any part of it is thin enough to get a flare nut wrench onto.

Please help!!!

http://picasaweb.google.com/pilotandy/RV9AEngine#5188816589024718642

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After a bit more poking around online it looks like I might need to be extra careful with this drain.

Saf-Air sells a drain for $60, but it's 1/2-18, while my parts catalog shows a 1/2-14 thread!
 
It could get worse - sorry

Aluminum threads screwed into aluminum threads can be bad about galling.

If you force it it may damage the threads in the sump. Did it turn at all yet?
If it turns out about 1/4 turn and then gets real tight thats bad.
At that point I would stop and then saw it off flush and then drill it out.
Drill it out just enough to peel out the threads of the quick-drain.

If the threads in the sump do get damaged all is not lost. There are ways to fix about everything.

Sorry to be negative, lets hope for the best but be prepared for the worst.

Mark
 
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Trying Mouse Milk...

...penetrating oil might help.

Several applications over a day or two - give it plenty of time to soak in.

It certainly can't to any harm...:)

mousemilk.jpg
 
Stuck?

Had the same problem with a Brass QD. Ended up using a heat gun and warming the sump around the drain, then with a pair of vice grips, hate to use them, it finally came loose.
Dick
 
Like DJ said, heat the pan first then try turning it with a pipe wrench. You want the pan to expand.
 
Not sure why I didn't think of it. Heat sounds like the way to go.

I may end up replacing the drain in any case. When I look on Saf-Air's website it lists the P5000 drain as having 1/2"-18 NPT. But from every other site I can find, 1/2" NPT is 14 TPI. Maybe a typo?

Thanks for the quick responses!
 
Find a mechanic who is willing to lend you a wrench made by SnapOn. They have two variations, one called Flank Drive and the other Flank Drive Plus. The former is designed to grip on the flats of the fastener (most high end tools have this feature, that's one of the reasons you don't want to buy cheap tools). The second wrench design sounds more suited to your application and actually has serrations on the wrenching surface. This design also grips the flats, but allows you to get much more torque applied. Professionals who work on a lot of older vehicles (rounded off fasteners) swear by these tools.
Terry
 
Here is an off the wall consideration. Can you drill a hole through the QD from one side, through the center and out the opposite side??

Size the hole appropriately, and insert a longish steel pin through the holes. This will give you "made in place T-handle" that you can give a hefty amount of twisting force. Just a thought...
 
The oil plug is out! I really appreciate all the great responses.

Ultimately, it succumbed to heat and a great big pipe wrench. Unfortunately, it is too badly mangled and will never drain oil again :( Shame too, I'm guessing it was expensive. I'll be replacing it with a P5000 from SAF-AIR, as it looks like it does have the same NPT threading afterall.

Thanks guys!
 
Lionclaw said:
The oil plug is out! I really appreciate all the great responses.

Ultimately, it succumbed to heat and a great big pipe wrench. Unfortunately, it is too badly mangled and will never drain oil again :( Shame too, I'm guessing it was expensive. I'll be replacing it with a P5000 from SAF-AIR, as it looks like it does have the same NPT threading afterall.

Thanks guys!
Click to expand...

Good to hear!

Mark
 
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