[Tango Mike]

I'm the original poster who started the thread on G3X calibration of the fuel tanks.

Testing has confirmed that the G3X is operating exactly as designed, and the fuel sender has either failed internally or is stuck. I determined this with two separate tests, adding 5 gal at a time, and the voltage reading on the G3X fuel calibration screen never varied more than a few thousandths of a volt from the empty value.

This means I have to replace the sender, and after taking out the screws, I've been unable to work a putty knife or any other tool between the flange on the tank and the sender to begin removing it.

It appears that the builder followed the Van's instructions not to use the gasket supplied with the kit, and I've left a message with him asking what he used to seal the sender to the tank. But in the meantime, I'm seeking advice/suggestions on how to begin without having to use a crowbar and brute force.

Thanks in advance for your expertise!

Tosh

 

[mikehoover]

I recently helped do this. We used a chisel and hammer. Pretty much a barbaric operation but all parts were usable after removing the prosealed plate from the tank.

 

[crabandy]

Are you just removing the sending unit from the cover plate or he cover plate and sending unit together?
My wings were still in the cradle but I used a putty knife and hammer to do the fuel pickup safety bulletin. My cover plates were pro sealed on and once I got the seal broke half way around it wasn't too bad.

 

[Tango Mike]

Thanks for the information.

My intention was to remove the sender only and leave the plate. I tried a chisel and a sharpened putty knife, but neither of those felt like they were getting between the sender flange and the plate. I just got home from the airport, and here's what I finally discovered that worked so well I had it off in about five minutes.

The tool I used was a small flat-blade screwdriver, probably not over 4" in total length. One of the advantages was being able to lay it relatively flat against the tank with the tip against the sender flange, and there was plenty of room to use a hammer to tap the end of the screwdriver.

But what really made it easy was not directing the tip of the screwdriver perpendicular against the edge and toward the center of the flange. I pointed the screwdriver laterally, from about the 7 o'clock position on the flange toward the 5 or even the 6 o'clock position. This let one end of the tip do the work, and effectively increased the force of the hammer taps by concentrating it on a small area of an already small screwdriver tip.

Up to that point, I had never felt the putty knife or the chisel begin to "grab" into the flange/plate junction. But after a few taps of the hammer against the screwdriver positioned as described, I could remove my hand from the screwdriver and it stayed where it was, wedged in position. At that point, I knew that small re-positions of the screwdriver would begin to wedge the flange away from the plate. Once I got the flange loose from about the 8 to 4 o'clock position, I grabbed it with my hand and pulled it completely free in one move.

It's off, I'm waiting for the replacement sender from Van's, and once it's installed, I hope to calibrate the tank and go flying instead of lying on my back on the hangar floor.

Thanks again for taking the time to join in this thread.

Tosh