Update
Well, I mixed 140 g white, 14 g black, and 2 g toluene. Ran out and had to mix another 70 g white, 7 g black, 1 g toluene to finish. I buttered the ends of the ribs and put a smear down along the rivet line before putting down the 3/16 bead, plus I thinly buttered the sides of the baffle and the flanges on the z brackets, so I did more than per the plans. To do the pop rivets and end rib 470 rivets, including shop heads, it took another 20 g white and 2 g black. The baffle rivets, including shop heads, took another 30 g white, 3 g black. All in all, I spent 10 hours assembling the baffle on the right tank. The wedge pop rivet tool posted elsewhere in VAF worked great. I cleco'd every hole -- no pillowing problem. I shot all the rivets, just seemed quicker for me and I wanted to drive the rivets into the c/sinks in the baffles. Even though I had deepened the c/sinks to get a good ring around the rivets before the ProSeal, I could have still gone another click or two. About 2/3 turned out flush, and the other 1/3 are a hair proud, but not very much. I've got a feeling dimpling would have provided a better place for ProSeal to seal, but it might have made pushing the baffle down more difficult.
I test fit the tank on the wing last night and everything seems to line up just fine. Tank does not appear to sit proud on the spar even though I thinly buttered every rib and z bracket flange.
. More is better right?!?!?!? If you have a proseal gun, It makes it much easier!!! I mixed two 100 gram cartridges & then mixed a 50 gram cup thinned 5% with toluene for "painting" all the contact surfaces of the baffle, back sides of the ribs & "twirling" the pop rivets in... It's not too bad if you lay it all out & have a game plan. I'm actually taking off work friday to close up my second tank. Good luck!!
