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fstringham7a

Well Known Member
RE: P-mag set up ??????

I am getting close to that day of first engine start and thus need some detailed info from those that have REALLY used, had SUCCESS with , and did install EMag electronic ignition P-Mag's.

I have read/reread/read......the manuals and followed the other threads on this subject but would like some REAL WORLD comments on the process of timing the P-Mags and how you have configured the timing as a typical set point for your flying. Remember your speaking to a very tech challenged chemistry teacher....RETIRED...but probably going back to work to pay for this hobby. There I go high jacking my own thread.:eek:

Oh ya......sell them....replace with mags......what are you thinking using those !!!!!!.......No the question isn't should I buy or sell them it is.........just a simple install and set up query...............

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A... painting and getting ready for that move to the airport!
 
Frank,

First, a few questions.
1. Which engine do you have?
2. Is the engine already broken in?
3. Have you sent them back for the latest updates?

Let's assume you do not have a 200 HP IO-360 angle valve engine.

If it were my plane, I would add the jumper to run the lower timing curve and then install/wire them per the manual. If you have a 0 SMHO 200 HP engine, you can remove this jumper after it is broken in. Check the manual for the details.

After that, setting the timing is straight forward.

Turn the prop to TDC and then put both P-mags in ground service mode. (Powered but grounded, the LED should be red.)

On my plane the P-mags have their vacuum advance lines T'ed together and I blow in them once, the light starts to flash, blow in it a 2nd time and it goes solid green. Cycle the power and make sure both have a green light and timing is set.

The other way to set the timing is to put the prop to TDC, put the P-mags in ground service mode, turn the timing gear until the LED turns green, put them in the hole, put the clamps on lightly, turn the P-mag until you re-acquire the green light, tighten them down. Cycle the power to make sure both have a green light.

I've used both methods and both work.

200 hours on both of my P-mags and still loving them.

PS. Make sure you have the wires secured close the connector with the little Adel clamp provided. I put two layers of shrink tubing on the wires to keep them from moving in the clamp. Also, make sure you have a blast tube pointing at the neck of the P-mags. Check the third engine page of my web site for pictures.

PPS. It is possible that your E/P-mags may have slightly different timing when using the blow in the tube method. This is a result of the location of the trigger magnet on the mag drive shaft. You will notice this by having a slightly different RPM drop on your mag check. You can solve this by manually clocking one of the mags and resetting the timing.
 
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What Bill said

Follow what Bill said and it will work fine. I used the manual timing on the right mag because it has more room for movement. The left side I pulled the manifold pressure tube and used another length of tube to use the "blow timing method."

These are very simple to time. Don't read into anything. It is so simple you'll think you are missing something.
 
RE:Info update

Bill

Thanks for the info.

My engine is a new ECi IOX-360 A4H9A parallel valve, 191 horse with spark advance of 25 degrees. It has been run in but not broken in.....The mags are with Brad as we speak....updates/plus

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A...
 
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RE:Easy

Darwin

Thanks for the info and confidence builder, "These are very simple to time. Don't read into anything. It is so simple you'll think you are missing something."

Would you say easier than landing a Helio on a mountian top!!!!:eek:

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A...
 
one more comment

To add to everything already said, during the breakin of my engine, first 50 hours, I did not hook up the manifold pressure to the PMAGs, but had that tube capped off. I did this because I did not want the timing to advance during the breakin period and run the engine any hotter.

I just got my PMAGs back after having the service bulletin done, and went through the install as described by N941WR. Easy and simple.
 
I have 27 hrs on mine and am delighted.

Just bolt them on in a position that is suitable, and remember you want to be able to see the LED.

Gang the MP tube together from the e or p mags so you will be able to time them at the same time.

Follow the instructions in the manual.

Lay the top plugs on the engine and pull the prop through so you can see them all fizz.

It is stuningly easy!

Do check the leads as you make them up for the correct resistance if you are using auto plugs as described in the manual.
 
fstringham7a said:
I am getting close to that day of first engine start and thus need some detailed info from those that have REALLY used, had SUCCESS with , and did install EMag electronic ignition P-Mag's.

I have read/reread/read......the manuals and followed the other threads on this subject but would like some REAL WORLD comments on the process of timing the P-Mags and how you have configured the timing as a typical set point for your flying.
Click to expand...

75 successful hours on my dual P-mags. Here's my advice (which is similar to the other posts):

The manual is written with a bunch of if/and/or statements in it that apply depending on what firmware version you have, what kind of plugs you're using, etc. I would print out the manual and line through all of the stuff that doesn't apply to your setup. That way you won't read/do it by mistake.

Don't "configure" anything with EICAD. Put the jumper wire in (for the maximum of 34 degree advance) and keep everything else the way it comes from the factory. After your flight testing period, you can consider removing the jumper if you want more advance. I never did because it works fine the way it is.

Support the wires (you never leave wires unsupported anywhere in the plane, so why would you do it here?).

I did leave the manifold pressure line hooked up for the break-in period. No reason to disconnect it unless your engine runs way too hot. I really don't think it would make much difference anyway, as that input isn't doing anything at high power settings when the advance is only 25 degrees. At lower power settings when that input is doing something, the engine isn't putting out as much heat.

Check the spark plugs by pulling the prop through to make sure they're firing when they're supposed to.

Don't get cute or try to out-think these things. If you install them correctly and they don't suffer any internal failures, they're going to work.
 
Purely personally

As I was one of those that had the timing shift due to the blow in the tube method going wrong (we think)..I clear the registry (power them up so the red led is blinking then power them off) The time it as a regular mag..I.e TDC when the green LED is on.

I run 34deg max advance on mogas..Works great.

Frank 1
 
tommylewis said:
To add to everything already said, during the breakin of my engine, first 50 hours, I did not hook up the manifold pressure to the PMAGs, but had that tube capped off. I did this because I did not want the timing to advance during the breakin period and run the engine any hotter...
Click to expand...
This good advice. I used a golf tee to plug the vacuum line during my break in period.
 
Day or night?

fstringham7a said:
Darwin

Would you say easier than landing a Helio on a mountian top!!!!:eek:

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A...
Click to expand...

Depends. Day or night? With or without Night Vision Goggles? Moon or Moonless.

It is darker than 2 foot up a cows arse with no moon in the desert and mountain areas.

Back to Pmags.
 
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