Pmerems

Pmerems

Well Known Member
Advertiser
Fellow RV-7/9 builders.

I have installed my rudder pedals (torque tubes and pedals) sometime ago but I have not installed the NACA vents (side air) vents. When installing the rudder pedals, I noticed that it was very difficult to get the pedals in or out once the center support was riveted in place. The only way I found to get the assembly in or out was to angle it such that it passed where the NACA vents would be mounted. If I had already installed the vents, I don't think I could get the rudder pedal assembly in or out.

Hopefully in the next month or so I will be painting the interior of the fuselage. And will then install the rudder pedals and NACA vents. It sure would be nice to be able to remove the rudder pedals if needed someday. I don't want to have to rip the NACA vents off to do it.

One option is to split the rudder pedal center support and attach the offending section with screws so that it can be removed making installation and removal of the rudder pedals possible.

Any thoughts would be helpful.

Paul
 
Wait on the vents

I found that it made sense to finish the panel before riveting on the forward, top deck on my -7A. Then, while on my back, pretzeled inside the footwell, trying to buck the rivets on the longeron for this section, I came to regret not having waited even longer to install the vents. I also had the rudder bars loose, but not removed. Third issue was the tip-up canopy mechanism. The actuating rods get in the way of the aftmost and topmost line of rivets (tipper). You may have a better way to do this, but if not, plan farther ahead.
h
 
Trick to installing rudder pedals?

This is an old thread, but I wonder if anyone has any advice?

My fuselage is open on the front top right now, but I'm about to install the forward center ribs & subpanel permanently. I have already fit the rudder pedal assembly (including the center support), but I removed the pedals with great difficulty to install the NACA vents.

The area is so tight, the only way I was able to install / remove the pedal assembly was to take the white plastic block off one side. Even then, the assembly just squeezed by the bulkheads.

When the proseal on the vents dries, I think I need to get the rudder pedal assembly back in place before I install the center forward fuse ribs. I cannot imagine trying to put rudder pedals in with those ribs in place.

Will I be able to get the pedal assembly installed with the NACA vents in place? How?

How can the pedal assembly be removed from a completed plane for service, and now can it be re-installed? It seems that it's length is just a bit too long to clear the forward ribs / bulkheads.

Anyone know any rudder pedal assesmbly installation tips?
 
Split Bearing Rudder Pedals

I decided to split the side bearing blocks like the plans have you do the middle bearing. I read that in a lessons learned post about a year ago. Because the bandsaw removes plastic material, it is necessary to install a washer between the two halves of the plastic blocks so the pedal tubes don't bind.

Like yourself I'm still building.
 
It isn't easy, but you can do it without splitting the blocks.

Unbolt the cylinders from the pedal assemblies. Let 'em hang by the lines if necessary.

Unbolt the blocks. Go ahead and remove the center block.

Slide the assembly (including the two side blocks) as far aft as possible. You should be able to get them aft of the vents.

Slide everything as far as possible to one side. Remove one end block.

Slide everything that remains as far as possible to the other side. Remove the second end block.

Angle the pedal assemblies and pull 'em out.

Loads of fun. The rudder pedal SB to remove and reinforce the rudder pedals came out literally a week or two before I was ready for my plane's first flight. Removing, stripping, welding, painting and reinstalling the pedals was not a happy undertaking.
 
Thanks Guys - I'm glad it isn't just me...sometimes it is the "easy" stuff that is the most difficult.

My pedals are out, so I just have to get them in (hopefullly only once). Kyle, I hadn't thought of removing both blocks - that will probably do the trick!
 
John Tierney said:
I decided to split the side bearing blocks like the plans have you do the middle bearing. I read that in a lessons learned post about a year ago. Because the bandsaw removes plastic material, it is necessary to install a washer between the two halves of the plastic blocks so the pedal tubes don't bind.

Like yourself I'm still building.
Click to expand...

To make the split block look good and fit without the washer, saw the block in two and the bolt the two parts together.... then take a spade bit and make the hole round again.

This really does help when you go to install or remove the weldment.
 
Hey guys-

I'm getting ready to repaint our interior and we are currently trying to decide between dark gray and the tan/beige it already is..

If we go dark gray, the rudder pedals are going to need some paint.. Our -6 was retro-fitted with right seat pedals after the build, so I'm thinking it should be pretty straight forward to pull the pedals for paint..

Am I right or am I dreaming?

Thanks

Jeff
 
One way to make these easier to install/remove is to chamfer the plastic blocks. I used a block plane and just knocked off a bit of the forward and rear edges of the block that are up against the side skin. There is plenty of material there and a little bit makes a huge difference in the ability to manuever in and out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.