F

fstringham7a

Well Known Member
RE: floor pad

What have all you folks used to pad the floor sections under the carpet? I have some of the LOWES garage floor pads used during the construction project that may work...but they are heavy!!!!!!!!!!!!

Also.....Van's suggested method of padding the center section under the fuel line/electrical will also not work for me.......What have others done to pad this area or products used? I have some ideas....but why reinvent the wheel.

Checked the forums but come up with no info.....maybe using the wrong words.........:eek:

Ain't finishing up a ball or what!!!!!????%%%%:rolleyes:

Frank @ SGU & 1L8.........RV7A
 
Hey Frank,
Good timing...I need to know, too. By the way, what is Van's "suggested method" for the center area where the fuel lines are? I have some really soft foam, but it's not working out too well. I've heard that some guys use that spray in foam, but I would think that maintenance in that area would be a problem after using it.
 
The info is out there but I couldn't find it either.

Go to this page and scroll down to the 3/13/06 entry to see how I supported the fuel lines.

You might wish to look at the 8/31/05 entry on the same page to see how I drilled the holes for the cover.

For the floor, I used 3/4" Super Soundproofing Velcroed to the floor. On top of that I Velcored a section of Oil Dri Garage Guard Oil Mat from Northern Tool cut to fit. Lightweight and the gray of mat matched my interior.
 
Vans indicates a piece of foam cut to fit around the lines. Seems like Bills method is a better mousetrap. My only concern might be whether the chemicals in the expanding foam react with the Al line. Unlikely, I think, but possible.

I have not done the insulation yet, but have encased my lines wherever they might rub against anything by putting some 3/8" ID tygon tubing (clear, flexible plastic available at Lowes etc.) around critical points such as through the gear weldments and down the center tunnel. Easier to slip onto the Al tubing with a bit of WD-40 and best done before bending if possible. Several smaller segments are easier than one large piece.

greg
 
I'm going to use some "duct board" with carpet on top. It's the stuff that's folded to make heating and air conditioning ducts. It's about an inch thick, but you can easily pull off a few laminations. Since it's mostly fiberglass with an aluminum backing, I still want to take a torch to it first; to make sure, fire rating wise.

L.Adamson
 
Spray Foam Insulation

The first Lear Jets, the model 23, used spray-in expanding foam for insulation. Many of those were scrapped for corrosion after the bulletins came out to remove all that stuff and we got a chance to look underneath. The early HS-125 up through the -700 model used foam inside of flaps, airbrakes and wing fences to stiffen them. Same problem with corrosion. All that had to be removed and expensive repairs made.

Don't think I'd use that stuff. What ever goes in should be removable so you can inspect under it.
 
I used anti-fatique matting from Lowes. This is the type that are interlocked together like a puzzle. They are just the right thickness to make an even surface on the floorboard and the ridgelines.
It's comfortable on the feet, removes vibration and is very light in weight. Oh, and inexpensive as well.

You just cut them to size to fit. Spray a little adhesive or apply contact cement and there you go. I used the grey matting.
 
My choice, opinions will vary...

I chose to use aviation grade products anywhere I could on my airplane, including Super Soundproofing from Spruce and carpet from Oregon Aero. I used spray on Adhesive, non corrosive and non combustive when dry, to hold the foam down and Velcro on the back of the carpet.
Yes, more expensive, and many believe if you have a fire in the cabin, you have far bigger worries than caustic fumes from materials. I dont disagree, but
there are a lot of choices to make and I would recommend to any builder to find a philosphy that works for them and try to stick with it.
I made a sandwich for the fuel line in the tunnel with Super Soundproofing as well and simply cut a wedge shaped slot lengthwise down the foam to hold the fuel line between the foam sheets. I did not glue this foam down as it is captured by the tunnel cover. Easy removal if needed.
 
For my floors, I have the 3/4" soundproofing foam from ACS, with my carpet on top of that.

Under my center channel, where my electrical and fuel/brake lines are, I used the 1/8" thick padding that is commonly sold as a shelf liner to keep dishes from sliding around. I got mine in the kitchenware department of Wal*Mart Aviation Supply. This may not be enough padding for aluminum tubing, but my fuel lines and brake lines are all Teflon-core stainless braided hoses with a clear chafe, so they're pretty well protected anyway.
 
This is an expensive option, but I really like it. Just buy the Classic Aero Designs carpet and forget it. I tried the foam route and their carpet is so much better; quieter, better looking and all aircraft quality to boot.

Bob Kelly
 
videobobk said:
This is an expensive option, but I really like it. Just buy the Classic Aero Designs carpet and forget it. I tried the foam route and their carpet is so much better; quieter, better looking and all aircraft quality to boot.

Bob Kelly
Click to expand...

Hi Bob,
Does the Classic Aero Designs carpet have a pad under it that allows it to fit in between the 3/4" tall aluminum angle that runs length-wise on the floor? I just bought the "Super Soundproofing" padding and had intended to put the carpet on top of that.
 
lostpilot28 said:
Hi Bob,
Does the Classic Aero Designs carpet have a pad under it that allows it to fit in between the 3/4" tall aluminum angle that runs length-wise on the floor? I just bought the "Super Soundproofing" padding and had intended to put the carpet on top of that.
Click to expand...
Yes, it does. See the CAD website where they describe the extra padding between stiffeners.

http://www.classicaerodesigns.com/w...5&ProductCategory=RV-9/9A&ProductCategoryID=7

Still, it's pretty pricey stuff, especially if you get both the front and baggage area carpets, so you might be able to find carpet and padding on your own for substantially less (?).
 
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lostpilot28 said:
Hi Bob,
Does the Classic Aero Designs carpet have a pad under it that allows it to fit in between the 3/4" tall aluminum angle that runs length-wise on the floor? I just bought the "Super Soundproofing" padding and had intended to put the carpet on top of that.
Click to expand...

Yup, when it's in, everything is flush wall-to-wall. I was ready to replace my super soundproofing padding after only a little over 100 hours as the carpet had slipped on it and it was worn in one spot. The Classic carpet doesn't slip around. Also, the heel pads are nice. It looks like it will last for many years.

Use that S-S stuff on the side walls. Works great!

Bob
 
dhammer said:
The first Lear Jets, the model 23, used spray-in expanding foam for insulation. Many of those were scrapped for corrosion after the bulletins came out to remove all that stuff and we got a chance to look underneath. The early HS-125 up through the -700 model used foam inside of flaps, airbrakes and wing fences to stiffen them. Same problem with corrosion. All that had to be removed and expensive repairs made.

Don't think I'd use that stuff. What ever goes in should be removable so you can inspect under it.
Click to expand...
The issue regarding the use of spray-in-expanding foam has come up before and in every case where the stuff caused corrosion it was exposed to the elements, that is not the case in the wiring tunnel. Still, it would be easy enough to put something under it so it does not come in contact with the aluminum. In the samples I have in my basement from when I tested it, there is no corrosion of any kind in evidence.

I suspect any foam that gets wet, will hold the moisture against the aluminum, thus causing corrosion, so as was pointed out, make sure whatever you use is removable.
 
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