fstringham7a

Well Known Member
RE:Dynon Oil Temp Sensor fix and HOBBS???

My, My how time flys (pun intended :) ) July 15th 2009 BUZZ (N74BZ) had his first flight and already 2nd page news on the Van's Hobbs. As mentioned in the first flight thread Buzz

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=45686&highlight=Buzz

flew straight and true but.......erratic oil temp on the EMS D120 and a persistent oil leak have been a minor problem during the intial flights.

Yesterday flight proved all is well..... Lower elbow on the oil cooler was given a full turn...oil leak gone:) Removed the Dynon oil temp sensor (sensor body to case ground)and installed the GRT's oil temp sensor with it's own wire to fire wall ground block. Oil temp now is rock solid.

Buzz has 13 plus on the Hobbs, engine runs great, Grin is still hard to take on the facial muscles:D, ready to install the complete interior, put on the wheel pants/fairings, and look forward to being out of the Phase 1 jail.....:rolleyes:

Engine stats couldn't be better. Oil temp 180, cylinder temps at or below 400. (Bob Looper the fellow that ran the engine in says I am babying the engine. He said that break in will take place sooner if I lean it out at 75% power and get those CHT's in the plus 400 to 425 degrees F area. Buzz will start on the first blade unless HOT after flight and then the old hot start procedure must be used. I installed a pressure plenum cover instead of the tried and true rubber to cowl style, which I think is the reason for the good oil, CHT temps even in the HOT desert air.

The only regret is not getting the plane totally painted but that minimal pain is soothed by seeing BUZZ FLY!!!!!!!!

Frank @ SGU and 1L8 ...RV7A... Phase 1 @ 13 on the hobbs
 
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The erratic oil temp you report with the Dynon oil temp sensor, or simply reading too high, is a known problem. But not with the sensor (directly).

The problem is always caused by a poor ground between the avionics ground point and the engine. It can be fixed, but can also be a pain.

I ended up replacing my engine ground strap and also creating a small ground strap using a hose clamp around the sensor with a wire to the block. Rock solid, but as you have noted it may be simpler to use the GRT sensor.

On the other hand, it makes a good detector of a bad ground...

:D
 
Congrats and enjoy!

Guess what Frank? The grin never goes away so get used to the new facial creases from the never ending smile.

Today, I departed the runway in my 9A about one mile after a 172. As he struggled to gain altitude I could see that I was gaining on him too quickly so I turned right and departed the pattern.

My two favorite words in situations like this are ?NO FACTOR? as the more responsive and powerful RV pulls away from the older spam cans.

I was still grinning an hour later when I landed. And to think I once considered NOT building a modern airplane.

One recommendation: Install the front wheel pant!!

[FONT=&quot]Enjoy![/FONT]
 
grt oil temp sensor

since I have to replace the seal on my dynon temp sensor anyway, where does one find the grt sensor and how much, and are the response (temp vs resistance) the same? Rick 90432
 
since I have to replace the seal on my dynon temp sensor anyway, where does one find the grt sensor and how much, and are the response (temp vs resistance) the same? Rick 90432

GRT offers them on their site under "Accessories" or some such. Poke around, you'll find it.

Per my prior post, if you are having a ground issue it seems that it would be worthwhile to fix it, thus negating the need to replace the sensor.

The seal for the oil temp sender I believe is Part Number AN900-10 at Aircraft Spruce (or might be -11).