pappa

Member
Primed with akzo yesterday. This is a first, although I have sprayed cabinets before. Today checking fit on vs spar and the doubler, I find the fit a little proud, not flat. Do I need to recountersink for absolute flat between the two pieces
 
I did the exact same thing! I went back and put a cleco in every hole but the center (countersunk) ones and then squeezed them together with my fingers just to make sure something else wasn't going on. And, yep! ..... they were under-countersunk. So, I got out the cage and slowly proceeded, rechecking (same as above) until they sat flush. Then, I wiped the area down with a little acetone, and lightly re-primed the area. I use SEM self-etching primer from a rattle can, so it was very easy.

Incidentally, I also butchered the first set of front spar doublers, front spar halves and horizontal stab tip ribs and had to order new. I think I've made every mistake possible so far. And, I think I hold the record for the longest elapsed time build for an RV-8. So, ..... don't sweat it man!
 
Countersink

Countersink, but always check on scrap first.
If it's just a tiny bit, you can put the countersink bit in a debur tool and dress them by hand.
If you can spare a few minutes, fabricate a set of dimple tokens.
 
Tokens

What are these?

What Miles said.
I made them different shapes so each thickness is a different shape. Most are about 2" long. Each set per thickness is one token per size dimple die. I drill one end to fit a key ring so they are easy to flip and find the right one. Since they aren't structural, scratch the info with an awl. Sharpie marks will be gone pretty quick. I drill two holes in the other end. One gets dimpled. The other is a hole size reference hole.