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fstringham7a

Well Known Member
RE:Canopy Sealant

Got up this AM to some welcome rain hear in the usually sunny and hot soutwest....Getting close to the end of the build of my RV7A TU and the rain made me realize the need I have to seal the plexi over the baggage area.

My research of the forums suggest that proseal and lexel are a good choice. I don't have any proseal as the tanks were completed along time ago but I figure that lexel (which I have never used) can be bought locally at ACE aero/Lowes aero/Home Depot aero.

Is this the Lexel that is the one or are there other types of the stuff better suited to the applications.



Thanks for the help.......and will it ever end....(I am painting which really means I am preping to paint!!!!!!!!!!!!:eek:

Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A... painting
 
Don't use anything with silicone in it. It will cause the painter grief. I usually use a silicone product after the painting. The same stuff they seal car windhieds with. It is a clear silicone that is very thin and will run into the gap. It seems to work well. Can't remember the name of the stuff.
 
I've used polyurethane caulking, which is paintable and won't contaminate your surfaces with silicone.

The beauty of this stuff is that it's easy to clean with mineral spirits. Downside is that it takes a day or two to cure because it's not catalized like proseal. 3M makes nautical grades (4200, 5200) but the commercial grade stuff I've had good success with.

Vern
 
Pro seal works well. Get a small tube from Van's and use the remaining to seal the joints in the skin too. Mask the area to be sealed, use your finger dipped in dish detergent to finish. The jets are sealed this way. It's paintable
 
agough277 said:
Pro seal works well. Get a small tube from Van's and use the remaining to seal the joints in the skin too. Mask the area to be sealed, use your finger dipped in dish detergent to finish. The jets are sealed this way. It's paintable
Click to expand...


i just spit on my finger to finish it........ i hate working with proseal.


and i may be wrong it's been a few days since i've prosealed anything.. but i think proseal is a 24hr cure.. 12 hour tack free.
 
PRC-1422

Not all proseal is created equal. I think that its the PRC-1422 that is made with things that will not craze the windows. Just do a search of prc-1422 and prc-1425 and you will see the diffrence. I know I know everyone has used everything and its worked just fine but I wanted to point out that the companys who make this stuff change the compsistion for what you are doing. Now finding someone to sell you some....your on your own. I am lucky enough to have gotten some "expired" stuff.
Problem I see is the stuff van sells is a flamemaster type and you may have to look up that flavor to see if its like the stuff I talking about.
 
I used the pro seal Van's sells. No crazing after a year or so.

prosealedge.jpg
 
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