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SFB711

Member
Flew through 20-30 minutes of light to moderate parcipitation (and turbulence) the other day and had a water intrusion issue. Past rain flights haves resulted in rather minimal seapage. Anyone been successful at sealing up an RV with a tip up canopy, outside having someone duck tape me in after shutting tha canopy? Seems it all comes in from the forward and upper portion of the canopy/cowling area best I can tell.

Steve B.
N322SF
 
Otra vez

I've posted this before, but here is a very helpful measure towards protecting the avionics. It doesn't keep the water from seeping in (mostly at the tip-up hinges), but it protects the expensive stuff pretty well.

IMG_2122.jpg

The material is a waterproof nylon and I occassionally spray it with Scotchgard. We glued it to the firewall and use velcro on the other three edges. Of course, there is also weatherstripping that the tip-up rests on when closed.

Another source of water coming in is the cabin ventilation scopes. I suppose you could duct tape them when you expect to fly through rain. I haven't done so, and I've had damp maps in my pockets.

Good luck!
 
I've flown in rain several times for several hundred miles with no problems with my 7A. I did nothing special on the sealing area in the front. I did add some seals along the bottom of the canopy frame along the longeron area.

Roberta
 
Looks like "Mickey" has the old straight hinges. Don't know of much you can do about sealing them.
 
Mel said:
Looks like "Mickey" has the old straight hinges. Don't know of much you can do about sealing them.
Click to expand...

Now I'm curious Mel....not knowing anything about the side-by-sides except what I learned from "kit #4" (aka Mikey...), what do the non-straight hinges look like?

Paul
 
The curved hinges came out in about 1992. They are shaped like car trunk hinges and allow you to seal the notches in the upper skin.

Check your e-mail.
 
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rtv seals

I have no idea if this will work with a TU (I have a slider) but you can make seals by putting rtv in the proper place (where ever that is) and covering it with plastic wrap. Close the canopy while it sets up and you should have a nice seal. It is good if you can leave the joint not quite as tight as it will be when it is down and locked so there will be a bit of pressure there. This is a good way to seal the slider and it might work on the TU. If it does, it was my idea. If it doesn't, I got it from someone else!

Bob Kelly
 
Thanks for the replies, I'll get busy. Louise, thanks for the re-posting of the picture, I'm going to give a try.

Steve B.
 
Mine leaked at the hinge cut-outs. I pop riveted a thin piece of aluminum on to the seal support to bridge the gap ( two places). Any remaining small gaps were filled with RVT. With the seal support gap now bridged, the seal strip can be extended over the hinge area. You should also run a bead of RVT full length in the "V" in the top of the join between the seal support strip and the sub panel to stop an water seeping down this join ( you will get water in this area even with a perfect seal strip). I have not flown in rain since this mod but no leakage after aggressive washing/hosing.
I used Aircraft Spruce "D" strip ( #05-00897) on the side rails. It is nice and soft and a bit bigger than the strip I got from Vans.

Fin
9A Flying

Edit: I have not flown in constant heavy rain, but there are no leaks while flying in and out of rain showers.
 
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Don't forget the darts

SFB711 said:
Thanks for the replies, I'll get busy. Louise, thanks for the re-posting of the picture, I'm going to give a try.

Steve B.
Click to expand...

Steve,
There are two darts on the firewall side to accomodate each curve in the panel. A total of four darts The two on the co-pilot's side are barely visible in the photo. (If you're lost with "darts", consult one of us old gals who were taught to sew.) ;)
 
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