N546RV

N546RV

Well Known Member
So there I was, working on my rudder. Time to flute the forward flange of the tip rib to fit the counterweight skin. No big deal, right? Of course!

So I do a preliminary look, holding the skin over the flange. Ok, don't need to move it much...I get out the fluting pliers, put a little flute in, compare to the skin...ok, needs more...I squeeze the pliers a little harder. Check the fit...still not quite there. Squeeze the pliers again, and as I remove them, I can immediately see that I squeezed too hard. As in my flute is now a very pronounced V shape and has a nice little crack.

So here's my question: Is there any reason I can't modify this flange and make it into two pieces? Assume that proper edge distance is maintained and I ensure that the base of the "split" is properly radiused to relieve stress. This would, of course, also have the side benefit of making it a lot easier to get those holes to line up.

Illustration of what I have in mind:

9u5je9.jpg
 
sounds OK to me

What you propose I think is fine. The fasteners that go through those holes also go through the rudder spar, right? If you are at all concerned, you could make a doubler plate that goes under the fastener heads and clamps against the tip rib on the face opposite the rudder spar.
 
scsmith said:
What you propose I think is fine. The fasteners that go through those holes also go through the rudder spar, right? If you are at all concerned, you could make a doubler plate that goes under the fastener heads and clamps against the tip rib on the face opposite the rudder spar.
Click to expand...

Actually, these fasteners don't attach to the spar. This end of the rib is the part that "overhangs" forward of the rudder spar and houses the counterweight. The counterweight skin attaches to these two holes and also wraps around the sides of the rib.

I like the idea of the doubler; I may do that just as a security measure.

Thanks!
 
randyintejas said:
I would alSo Stop drill it
Click to expand...

Well, there wasn't really anything to stop drill; I excised the crack when I made my little relief cut.

I changed my plans slightly, and decided to "wrap" the cut down onto the face of the rib. I started by marking where I wanted the cut to end, center-punching, and drilling a 3/16" hole; this would be my relief in the cut. Next, it was pretty trivial to mark my cut lines and hit it with the bandsaw. The transition between the bandsaw cuts and the drilled hole was a little rough, so I fine-tuned that using a cutting bit in the Dremel.

Here's the resulting split flange:
IMG_5959.jpg


The edge are still a bit rough in that picture, as I hadn't really deburred at all yet. The cut is also a bit off-center, but I can live with that. Edge distance on the right is close, but within spec. (I should have been more careful with that cut. A little further off, and this piece would have been scrap.)

Per Steve's recommendation, I added a doubler for my own peace of mind. This was just a small strip of .032 alclad, clamped in place and drilled with the skin and rib. Here it is all cleaned up and clecoed in place:
IMG_5961.jpg


Tomorrow I prime! (hopefully) Sunday I rivet! Complete rudder this weekend OR BUST!

:p
 
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