RudiGreyling

RudiGreyling

Well Known Member
Hi Guys,

It?s Sunday, I?m stuck and no Vans to contact, and want to continue to build, so I want to post this quick query: :D

The plans say the Tank Attachment Angle (T-405) should be 2? long, and you should contour it to fit into the nose rib. Problem if you make it 2? long and contour it as per plans, when you fit it in the rib there is no clearance for the nose rivets (position shown in red)
tank_aa_02.jpg


tank_aa_01.jpg


I checked my preview plans, but I can?t figure out how this attaches to the fuse. I wanted to see if the 2? is a critical measurement, or if the bracket on the fuse is adjustable to compensate for more.

I hope someone that has gone through this and fitted the tanks to the fuse already, can help.

The way I see it one has one of 2 choices.
1) Leave the tank attachment angle 2? long, but move it back to create the clearance for the rivets. (This means it will be more than 2? from the front of the nose +/- 2 ??, and it means the fuse bracket needs to be ?adjustable? to compensate); OR


2) Remove more of the sides of the contour and the front of the tank attachment angle so that the rivets can clear, making the attachment angle shorter +/- 1 ?? but keep the 2? measurement from the front of the rib.

What did you guys do and how did it work out?

Thanks in advance,

Kind Regards,
Rudi
 
Last edited:
Rudi, Nice fab work you got there!

;)

Anywhoooo, it will be moved rearward and closer to the bulge in the rib. Wjay I did was bevel the edge at the location of all the rivets so that a no hole yoke will fit inside and pinch those LE rivets.

The alternative is blinds, but I would rather do it my way (of course) because I like solid rivets.

The part that mates tot he fuse is infinitely adjustable, so no worries there.

Hope this helps!

Just build it!!!

:D CJ
 
Hi Rudi,
I checked mine and I used MK-319 pulled rivets for those five rivets. I don't remember if it is called out that way. I probably took it upon myself to use the pulled rivets because it was difficult to work in that area. You will never see those rivets when the plane is assembled.

Jim Wright RV-9A 90919 Arkansas Right Wing
 
I just riveted the rib to the tank skin first and then the riveted the Tank Attachment Angle. I had no problems except pro-seal all over me.
Squeak
 
Try and keep close to the 2 inches, a little more won't hurt but I wouldn't do the 2 1/4 as you suggested. The bracket on the fuse that attaches can be moved about a bit (it will be bent to match the wing tank bracket) but 1/4 would be a stretch IMO. I just made the tank brackets slightly smaller, releaved the nose edge for the rivets, riveted the tank skin first then the nose bracket. My wings are mated and the brackets matched perfectly.
Larry
 
Rivet Length

Rudi,

You'll need to relieve the angle for either rivet, even more for 319s than solids because the unpulled 319s are very long by comparison.

The hazard with installing the very stiff angle to the web first is that the web will probably be made much flatter than when fitted to the skin and the pair of holes drilled. Thus the rivet holes may not align very well when you install the rib.

Try to maintain the nominal dimension. It just makes things easier down the road.

And when you drill for the 4s near the vertex, keep enough tool clearance for the set.

John Siebold
 
Tank Attach Angle

I riveted the rib first, and then cut little scallops in the angle to clear the rivets. As you noted, the instructions don't mention anything about it, but it's the only way I could figure out to make everything fit. The cutouts for the rivets don't affect the function or strength of the attach angle.

Dennis Glaeser
7A - Wings done, fuselage coming...
 
Hi Guys,

Thank you for all the input. It seems there is no perfect clear way to do this. (Many ways to kill a cat :D). I am little concerned that some say the fuse bracket is adjustable and other say not a lot, I can't figure out the drawing in my preview plans...so I decided to:
1) keep as close as possible to the 2" measurement,
2) remove some material as shown in yellow to clear the rivets, and
3) rivet the rib to skin first, giving me clearene to set the rib rivets, then rivet the tank attachment angle after the rib using solid rivets.

(Strength wise: removing a bit extra material should be OK, since the surface is still large and I'm using solid rivets, and has a good full size countour backing stiffener behind the rib)
tank_aa_03.jpg

OK it is back to the grinder for this sucker.

Thank you,
Regards
Rudi
 
Rudi, This is the best pic I was able to find of mine:

gallery2.php


Don't cut it back across the yelow lines, just bevel it away so the yoke can fit in.

;) CJ
 
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