I liked this Fumoto style; comes with nipple for hose attachment. $20 or so.
ball valve rotates in solid brass/nylon cup, so no gasket to clog or leak.
I believe its just a 1/2" NPT (tapered) so be aware not to overtighten in the soft aluminum sump!

http://www.qwikvalve.com/?gclid=CMeK3Oe3kLQCFQhyQgodmSIAAw

Of course, after installing, I found that I didn't have room to turn the lever, it was right up against my heat muff!! @#$%&@*!!! ( the other side was no better!)...so in that case, the straight spring loaded style ( Saf-Air etc.)might be better.
 
The thread on my 320 (ECI sump) is 1/2-14.

+1 on the Fumoto type valve, it's worked well for me and latches securely closed (you can add a spring hose clamp for extra security). The corresponding p/n for the thread is T202N; qwikvalve.com.
 
drmax said:
Hello. Can someone point out (from the link) which drain plug i should get?
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=OIL+QUICK+DRAINS&x=0&y=0
I'd like the curtis style which I can put a hose to...but don't unsure what thread (pipe thread style) up into my 0-320 D1A. If you can shoot me another link directly to a plug, I'd be happy. Thx, DM
Click to expand...

When looking for parts for your RV, don't forget to look at Van's first to see what they use and offer..........

https://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/store.cgi?ident=1355164084-354-120&browse=em&product=oil-drain

This item is compact, and works very well.
 
The style the Van's sells is the one I like the best (it also tends to be the most expensive....) - I like the way it is built, and the way it feels - very positive. I've never had one leak, and it is easy to push on a hose to drain the oil easily. It fits on both the Vetterman cross-over and four-pipe equipped engines we have, but unfortunately, not on the RV-6 we have with an early exhaust who's pedigree we don't know....

Paul
 
drain

I have the ones like van sells on my maule & rv 8. They are my first choice as I have not had any drips or leaks with them. Ron
 
Any technical reason why an ordinary 1/4 turn ball valve wouldn't work? Sure, safety wire the handle, but is there any other good reason?
 
DanH said:
Any technical reason why an ordinary 1/4 turn ball valve wouldn't work? Sure, safety wire the handle, but is there any other good reason?
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The one I have has a spring to ensure that it does not open accidentally. I have to push up and turn 90 degrees to open it.

I do not have what you speak of to understand how it works but it seems to have less built in safety features.

An advantage of mine is that I do not have to remove the lower cowl to drain the oil. Or remove or replace safety wire.
 
Fumoto quik-drain

DanH said:
Any technical reason why an ordinary 1/4 turn ball valve wouldn't work? Sure, safety wire the handle, but is there any other good reason?
Click to expand...

....is exactly that; 1/4 turn ball valve, similar to a gas valve. Used on lots of heavy equipment, staionary engines etc.
which is why it's $20 I'm sure! Got mine from some trucker's supply.
 
Have the Fumoto as well, the type S with the nipple. Only one oil change sso far, but works great. The only negative in my opinion is that it is a bit heavy, I had to use 1 45 degree adapter to clear my 4-1 exhaust.

The plus is for low cost you get a well made, lockable, simple, 1/4 turn ball valve with dual seals.
 
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I'm not a fan of the Safe Air valves, every cotton picked one I've ever seen leaks past the o-rings.
 
Quick drains

I put a 18" oil line from the sump with an AN plug in the other end . When it's time to change the oil drop the hose out the bottom of the cowl and remove the plug , too simple and clean .
Tom
 
g zero said:
I put a 18" oil line from the sump with an AN plug in the other end . When it's time to change the oil drop the hose out the bottom of the cowl and remove the plug , too simple and clean .
Tom
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How do you avoid the mess of changing the filter? I make a HUGE mess, then clean it up. There's got to be a better way. :(
 
Pete, if you have the filter pointing aft like most you can usually make a catch tray. I usually drain the sump, close the plug and add my first quart. Then I cut the empty open for a catch tray. Depending on space, you can cut off the wide side, narrow side, or top. The plastic edge can fit under the filter adapter and catch every drop. Sometimes you can unscrew the filter and let it down right into the oil bottle and remove the whole thing. Of course, sometimes you drop it too.
 
PCHunt said:
How do you avoid the mess of changing the filter? I make a HUGE mess, then clean it up. There's got to be a better way. :(
Click to expand...

After puncturing the top of the filter so most of the oil can drain out, put a baby diaper under the filter before you remove it. Just did this yesterday, and didn't spill a drop. Even if you somehow dropped the diaper, the oil isn't going anywhere.

Jim Berry
RV-10
 
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