B

BrentHumphreys

Well Known Member
After doing the initial assembly, my normal procedure is to mark the parts with a sharpie so that I know that this rib goes in this spot, etc.

After doing all of the deburring, and dimpling, I use a scotchbrite pad to scuff up surfaces before priming.

The last step prior to prime is to glove up and wipe everything down with acetone or some other solvent to remove fingerprints, scotchbrite, etc.

My question is, how does everybody else maintain their sharpie marks when wiping down parts?

I have kept a sharpie handy and remarked parts after I wipe them, but that is really a pain.
 
Lots of "dots"

Usually I tried to keep things clecoed together at all times up until final assembly. IE, only one part out, etc.

For items that needed "permanent" marking, I used an auto-punch and made matching dot patterns close to the mating surfaces. Unless you sand very hard, those dots will be there.

Just how I did it.
YMMV
 
engraver

I asked vans about it and answer was it was ok. If it was a no no, you won't see it on the spar that comes from them.

The engraver leaves a series of little dots.
 
Take a look inside any part of my airplane and there is black sharpie everywhere. :)
 
I would write the part number on both sides, then after cleaning one side with acetone I would rewrite the number and then clean the other side. The numbers will show through a thin coat of primer. If you have marks to make, such as for alighment purposes, this method might work, or you can lightly punch some marks.
 
Dont use such an agressive solvent.

A degreaser/wax remover will not take your marks away unless you saturate it or rub hard. I use Kleanstrip PrepAll. It is available at any good auto body supply store. PPG also makes DX330 but it is very expensive. I found PrepAll does just as good of a job and is relatively cheap.
Wipe it on, then wipe it off with a clean rag. If it is a finished part, like the instrument panel or interior, go over the part with a tac cloth. Your then ready to paint, marks intact.
 
BrentHumphreys said:
flytoboat said:
I'm using an electric vibrating engraver.
Click to expand...

Doesn't that create a weakness? Just like the reason we deburr parts to remove stress risers.

Doesn't that create a weakness? Just like the reason we deburr parts to remove stress risers.
Click to expand...
Why risk creating a stress riser, even if Van?s OK?s it?

What I did was to lay two 2x4 across some saw horses, removed the ribs, laid them across the 2x4's and mark on the edge of the 2x4 where each rib number (1 through 15). Then when I aluminipreped, alodined, and primed each rib, it went back to its pre-assigned location on the 2x4?s. When the primmer dried, I would write the rib number on it with my blue sharpie.

Easy enough. I would also do the same with smaller parts on my painting table.
 
I numbered mine when doing the matchdrilling, then for priming I have T-post setup with brad nails run through the horizontal member for hanging parts. I hang them up in order, pull them off and clean them one by one, renumber the parts on the hanger, and shoot primer.

1001217ac0.jpg
 
as others have said, I too was using an engraver. Then I switched to the rattle can self etching duplicolor primer... Now I do not even wipe down the parts before priming. The stuff goes on good, and can be handled in 15 mins. 24 hours later, you cannot scratch the stuff off without using a tool of some sort. :) So now I just mark with a sharpie and it stays for good.
 
airguy said:
I numbered mine when doing the matchdrilling, then for priming I have T-post setup with brad nails run through the horizontal member for hanging parts. I hang them up in order, pull them off and clean them one by one, renumber the parts on the hanger, and shoot primer.

1001217ac0.jpg
Click to expand...

Whats with the notch in the ribs? :confused: Is that how they are on the -9's?
 
danielhv said:
as others have said, I too was using an engraver. Then I switched to the rattle can self etching duplicolor primer... Now I do not even wipe down the parts before priming. The stuff goes on good, and can be handled in 15 mins. 24 hours later, you cannot scratch the stuff off without using a tool of some sort. :) So now I just mark with a sharpie and it stays for good.
Click to expand...

I am using the duplicolor too, but prefer to not apply it over fingerprints, and scotchbrite dust.
 
danielhv said:
Whats with the notch in the ribs? :confused: Is that how they are on the -9's?
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Yep, those for a -9. There is a J-channel that runs the length of the wing between the two spars on the top of the wing.

You can see it in this picture:
 
danielhv said:
Whats with the notch in the ribs? :confused: Is that how they are on the -9's?
Click to expand...

The notch is for a j-channel stiffner that runs perpendicular to the ribs. I can't speak to the RV-9, but they are used many different places on a RV-10. (wings, leading edge, fuel tanks, etc)
 
Webb said:
I asked vans about it and answer was it was ok. If it was a no no, you won't see it on the spar that comes from them.

The engraver leaves a series of little dots.
Click to expand...

That's what we use.

If it's good enough for all the parts of the main spar and center section, it's good enough for me.

Simple, quick, permanent, and apparently without issue on all those thousands of main spars so far...
 
I put the parts on cardboard or plywood and write the part name and orientation (if necessary) on the surface. Works great.

rv8_th.jpg

rv2_th.jpg
 
Marking parts

I sometimes use a metal stamp that comes in a small set 0-9, A-Z, to mark parts. Then you can forget remarking. It's permanent!Don't fuss with a complete part number; code it to your plans.

For things like engine parts,I make a small dog tag and attach it with safety wire.
 
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