R

ron sterba

Well Known Member
Just finished up taking off windscreen, sanding a 1/32" here and there 43 times for what I deem a pretty good fit without bending windscreen on sides and front. My question is,,hold on forgot something,,,yes slider canopy complete, done with sikaflex flex and it latches ok. I just installed my two side clips ,what is your distance between the sliding canopy plastic edge ( canopy latched ) and the front windscreen edge? My thoughts are of present temperature conditions of 70 degrees and 90 degrees. Can I expect the canopy plastic to expand and possibly not be able to open the canopy because both edges are pressing into each other? I thought of placing Popsicle sticks as spacers between edges in order to set my front windscreen tie down clips.

Thanks always appreciate your thoughts

Ron in Oregon
 
I have a tip up and in super hot weather that canopy will expand enough to put the front section of the canopy right up tight against the rear window section and lock you in. I ended up doing more sanding down of the edges until I had about 1/8" separation at normal temps and it seems to be OK now. Still a tight fit when it bakes in the summer sun, but enough to be able to pop it open. I think the plans show 1/32" gap, but that in my opinion is way too narrow.
 
Well hello my friend, been a long time. Your statement is good education for anybody yet to put the windscreen on. Nice to know how much I'll need for spacing. My popsicle stick measures .070" so I think that would work since I have the slider and which pulls apart as opposed to a lift up canopy. Yep getting locked in and the thought of chipping on the upward motion scares me. Thanks Bruce. Hope to start my engine in the next 30 days. Then just a paint job will remain. Over the last 5 yrs I bet I changed the paint scheme in my head at least 10 times. Take care Bruce.
Ron in Oregon
 
Hey Ron,

I used a tongue depressor for a thickness gauge...slight variation on your popsicle stick technique! So it's maybe 1/16" at the narrowest point, and there's no issue with a bind/contact even on a 100 F day.

Bevel the canopy plexi's leading edge generously, and don't forget to taper the underside of the external latch handle, so when it swings around 180 degrees it doesn't take out that somewhat delicate fiberglass fairing when sliding the canopy shut.

 
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Thanks Doug, I looked at the handle and sure enough the taper will be needed. Very SMART POINT! Today I'll finish using the Seka Flex to adhere the windshield to the roll bar and front leading edge to the forward top skin. So got up to 47 times of on and off with the windshield. Seems you take a little off here and the gap over there closes up and another opens up.I'm just scared to take to much off at a time. Maybe next time, ohhhhh what did I say, shame on me,,,,,,there will never be another time! Thanks Doug for the headsup.will do today.

Ron in Oregon RV9A. N421HJ. One number up from Honda Jet. May not be as fast as a Honda Jet but the FUN level will exceed any expectations you might have in aviation.
 
When you get the gap close to final, wrap some 220 grit paper around that popsicle stick, put it between the windscreen and canopy in the closed position, and go back and forth a bunch around the perimeter. Finishes it off nice.

I remember the pain of 47 trial fits! Not only for the canopy, but cowling and baffling too. Don't worry; after this you'll get to some of the fun assembly stuff.
 
Doug ,I like that idea on the 220 grit sandpaper. I definitely will try that. I started putting items back in the plane. Maybe two weeks to starting the plane. It was so hot here in Salem, today it hit 99 degrees!!!! Put the window air conditioniner in 6 weeks early. I was a little worried about painting to . Maybe Tuesday on the cool down.that primer at $75 a pint takes about 10-15 to dry on a warm day. I remember when I did the canopy.Doyou know of anybody who used carbon fiber on the top windshield over lap over the slider glass? Maybe somebody has pictures of their project.
 
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