rvator51

Well Known Member
I am going to put my RV-4 up for sale this year when finished. I have temporailly mounted my RV-4 analog panel in it. Trying to decide whether to use the analog panel or put in a panel with a Dynon DK-180 in it. I like the idea of using the Dynon because I wont have to cut holes in the firewall for the vacuum lines.

If I sell the analog instruments, I would still have to pay around another
$2000 grand for the Dynon.

What is your opinion on what would sell faster, analog or glass and whether I would get my money back from installing the Dynon versus leaving the 6 pack?

I am a fan of the Dynon and have the D-10a and the EMS
d-10 installed in my wifes RV-4 and considering it for the RV-6a that is in the wiring stage.
 
I'd go with the D180. It's probably more reliable as a whole than a 6 pack. Plus, glass seems to bring a higher resell price. That $2k can be made up in many places.
 
Dynon...

Tom... the Dynon option would also save quite a few pounds of weight - the three gyro instruments are heavy and when you dump the vacuum pump... it does add up...

Make you RV-4 fly better....:)

gil A
 
If you already have the steam guages I would put them in and avoid spending $2000. Whatever you would get for the plane with steam guages you will not get $2000 more because it has a Dynon. Plus you are not going to sell the steam guages for what you paid for them. Let the next owner spend the $2000 and sell the guages.
 
It is about marketing

I disagree with N395V. This is really a marketing decision and I'm sure that the airplane will sell faster with "modern" instruments. The idea of "let the next owner spend..." really doesn't play here. The reason someone buys a flying airplane is to, indeed, fly it not have it apart for an upgrade.

John Clark
RV8 N18U "Sunshine"
KSBA
 
You know the old saying..."When you buy a plane you buy the engine and the instruments and you get the plane for free". IMO you WILL get the 'Dynon money' back when you sell. Plus....if someone has to make a choice......"do I want the RV4 with the 6 pack or do I want the RV4 with the Dynon".....well.....all other things being equal which would you choose? Meaning....the Dynon panel will sell quicker.

As Milt points out...you will have to put up a few more dollars for the Dynon and you will not get back the full price on the steam gauges. If the additional cost is not a huge issue then I think it will be money well spent and that you'll get it back. Plus you can enjoy it prior to the sale.

Now that you have a couple of opinions from both sides I bet you're glad you asked....right?? :D

If you already have the steam guages I would put them in and avoid spending $2000. Whatever you would get for the plane with steam guages you will not get $2000 more because it has a Dynon. Plus you are not going to sell the steam guages for what you paid for them. Let the next owner spend the $2000 and sell the guages.
 
HP is HP...

Hey, the vacuum pump pulls 4 HP at 2700 RPM, that's enough for me to never install one. I compromised in my Rocket and bought a Tru Trak ADI and a full set of Westach electronic gauges (used on the internet) very light and accurate, about $1000 total. I'd put the Dynon in what you're keeping.

Your call...

Rob Ray
RV4/HR2
 
Thanks everyone for your comments. The most popular choice seems to be to put in the Dynon DK-180.
 
Hey, the vacuum pump pulls 4 HP at 2700 RPM, that's enough for me to never install one.

This 4 HP figure really caught my attention, and I've now made many Google searches and got no real answers. I was just wondering; since decent size vac pumps that we use in the refrigeration business are using motors of around 1/2 hp.

I also found a test, thanks to a Google search, where several different aircraft vacuum pumps were tested using a 1/4 HP electric motor, and ran up to 2700 rpm.

However, I can't find any "concrete" info on the HP requirements for a standard airplane vac pump such as the Rapco. I'm just very curious here.

L.Adamson --- RV6A/Rapco vac pump
 
No substitute...

Mr. Adamson,
I got the number from an engineer who worked for Continental engines over the years for various purposes who helped me on my RV4 back in the mid-90's. He was involved in the original 0-200 certification and knew that little engine inside out. The gentleman spoke of dry vs wet pumps as well, the wet pump pulling slightly less power but again, any loss to me is significant. The same engineer said a standard aircraft magneto (w/imp coupling) pulls 1/2 hp per mag at 2700 RPM. (motivation to remove one and have Electronic Ign). All the tests were on an 0-200, a larger Lycoming may have different numbers.

I personally have no need for a vacuum pump, the extra weight and plumbing, overhaul costs (and HP loss) alone outweigh it's usefulness. In the 1500 hours I put on my RV4 I tumbled 3 electric attitude gyros and finally bought a TruTrak digital ADI, less than 1/2 lb total weight, 4 wires and works great, problem solved. My Rocket has a TT ADI as well...

Your mileage may vary...

Rob Ray
HR2

PS:They also did spark plug comparisons for both Cont and Lyc. The REM 37BY (hotter) Champion plug on a 4 or 6 Cyl Lycoming Dyno'd a slight HP increase (3-5HP on an IO-540) as well. Jeff Rose verified this during the testing of his Electronic Ignition. I have run these plugs on my RV4 for 10 years and in my Rocket on the Mag plugs as well. I run Denso automotive plugs on my EI. BTW, if you haven't installed an EI on your RV, you should consider it.
 
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Go with the Dynon

After almost 3 years and 200 hours, I just ripped out ten steam gauges that monitored one cylinder and installed the EMS-D120 ( I already had the EFIS ). Now monitoring all four cylinders and having fuel flow, I love it. The first thing I saw was that Cyl 1 CHT was 50F colder than Cyl 4. A piece of tape 3/4 wide along the fins of Cyl 1 and now all four are within 15F of each other. That maybe saves a ton of stress on the engine and makes it worth while. Plus, with the harness you'll get from Dynon, it will be far less work.
Rick Grenwis
RV6AQB 200 hours