[mikehoover]

Anybody decide to use pulled rivets (countersunk?) to rivet the the stainless steel WD-415 manual trim cable mount to the E-616PP trim cover plate in the elevator? My trim tab cable is already installed to the cabin so once the trim cover plate and the WD-415 are clecoed in place, it will be difficult to buck or squeeze the rivets. It can be done but not a lot of room to work with. It seems that once riveted, if something needs to be maintenanced there, those rivets will have to be drilled out in order to remove the WD-415. Not sure it that will ever be a problem. I would not want to have to unhook/untiewrap the trim cable along the whole length in order to pull enough out of the elevator to remove the WD-415/E-616PP assembly. Comments/suggestions. Thanks!

 

[Wayne Gillispie]

I used what the plans called for on my 10

universal head pop rivets, but it is a pain to adjust cables as there is insufficient clearance to rotate wd-415. I will install miniature #4 or #6 nutplates and countersunk stainless screws next time it is off.

 

[mikehoover]

universal head pop rivets, but it is a pain to adjust cables as there is insufficient clearance to rotate wd-415. I will install miniature #4 or #6 nutplates and countersunk stainless screws next time it is off.

I thought about #6 screws and nutplates too. I wonder if they will be acceptable since they are not structural grade in that size. I don't think I would use #4 screws - they seem to shear off very easily with minimal force. If Van's seemed to think four AN470AD4 rivets are required, wonder what he would think about #6 screws.

Also, Wayne, what rivet is called out in the plans here?

Thanks!

 

[az_gila]

The -6 plans show...

...four LP4-3 rivets for the same part.

Early failures were from the nut to plate weld, not the plate to skin rivet joint...