[comfortcat]

I'm installing the leading edge on my RV-9A wings and having quite a bit of grief with the Rib-to-spar rivets.

*sigh*

Hard to see and hard to buck. Hard to tell if I did a good job or not.

So, I'd like to use pull rivets instead of trying to beat the stuffing out of my beautiful gold spar!

Are there Pull-rivets for:

AN470AD4-5
and
AN470AD4-7

Rivets?

Thanx!

Dkb

 

[Vlad]

David,
You can use LP4-3 and/or LP4-4 there was an article about that in an RVator a while ago. Some builders are using Cherry Max but it's overkill I think.

 

[llavalle]

Yes, you can use LP4-3 and LP4-4 rivets. I remember reading it somewhere else, can't remember where.

The RV is stressed-skin design : most of the load is carried by the skin. The rib is there for the skin to keep its shape. The outboard one are probably easiwer to do so you might want to use regular AN solid rivets there.

Up to you

 

[paul330]

True to a certain extent. However, driven rivets fill the hole better and help prevent fatigue cracks, 90% of which start at fastener holes. Where pulled rivets are needed in the skin, then the normal recommendation is the MK319 which is semi-structural and fits the same countersink - simply drill the hole to 7/64.

The leading edge rivets ARE difficult and I wrecked one of my skins. The easiest way is with 2 people and a tungsten bar.

 

[Vlad]

Paul it's rib-to-spar rivets, not skin-to-rib. In that particular location the shear load is minimum-minimorum.

 

[paul330]

Ah, quite right - mis-read. In that case (certainly on the -10) LP4s are used on all but the outer ribs.