jlfernan

Well Known Member
About to start on my QB wings. About how much proseal do I need for the access and the fuel senders? Also, are people using the cork and rubber gaskets or just prosealing everything? :confused:
 
I used cork and fuel-lube to close off the access plate. A lot of guys also proseal that plate on. I didn't want to proseal it in because I was afraid I'd never get it off. Then I witnessed a couple friends taking off their tank access plate that was prosealed on. A little gentle coaxing heat from a heat gun and the proseal turned to butter and the plate came right off.

I'm going to proseal it on when I build the 7.
 
svanarts said:
A lot of guys also proseal that plate on. Then I witnessed a couple friends taking off their tank access plate that was prosealed on. A little gentle coaxing heat from a heat gun and the proseal turned to butter and the plate came right off.

Was this just proseal or the cork gasket smeared with proseal? Hopefully going to seal mine up soon... inquiring minds wanna know.

John
 
Proseal only. You can remove it with a sharp putty knife if necessary.
 
Tank cover sealing

I just removed a ProSealed tank cover (no gasket) to comply with the SB. It was easier than I thought it would be BUT the wings are not installed!. It would have been a MUCH tougher job if the wings were on.
I decided to reinstall with the cork gaskets buttered up with TiteSeal instead of ProSeal. TiteSeal never hardens, so if I ever have to remove the covers again (after the wings are installed) it won't involve peeling off a prosealed cover. The TiteSeal needs a gasket (ProSeal only doesn't).
 
I prosealed my crank seal and seal cover plate to my engine. My buddies said it would never come off/loose. Month or so later (whole 'nother story), it did with a moderate amount of help from a thin knife blade. Slide the blade between the sealing surfaces and got it started. It was reasonably easy to disassemble, IMO.
 
I pro-sealed my access plates with no cork, and they have been fine. I originally installed the fuel senders with just the supplied gaskets - and they leaked (Becasue I didn't goop up the screws with anything). I subsequently did the senders with no gaskets, pro-seal only, and no more leaks.

Just a data point

Paul
 
Prosealed covers

Just did my invert tank pickup mods for the SB with my prosealed covers.

At first it was not easy...i did not like the heat gun thing as it was a little close to the proseal used to asseble the tanks. I could not find a decent tool to slip under the cover either.

Eventually I took a paint scraper and a SS rule. I ground the edges of the scraper and ruler so they were like a razor.

Cut right thru with a little brute force and ignorance.

As my fuel pumps are in the wing roots I decided to make my tanks removable.

This means painting the tanks seperate from the wings and assembling with SS torx screws.

I get to hang the wings this evening, weigh it next week (if the FBO will give me access to their scales) and then schedule the inspection for 2 weeks after that...feels close to first flight time..:)

Frank
 
I appreciate all the responses, but I would still like to know about how much proseal I need to buy. I'd hate to buy the quart if I could manage with one ounce.
 
I prosealed mine in about three months ago.
A glob of proseal about the size of a golf ball will do both access covers as well as both of the fuel sending units and put some on the threads of all of the screws. You should even have enough to dab around on the exposed screws, etc when you are done, if you want to.
I mixed up smaller amounts, enough to do one side at a time, but if you have everything ready you could do all of them with the same batch. You do not need to put a lot on these surfaces, since it squeezes out and just forms a bead around the edges, both inside and outside of the tank.
39 hours and no leaks.
 
How much proseal?

I started with an ounce...Then bought a 6oz (to do the invert mods to the QB tanks) and then said "screw it" and bought a quart to do the SB.

To be honest its hardly any more cost to buy the quart and it will last a long time in the freezer. The other thing is there are lots of uses for the stuff which if I had bought a quart in the first place I would not have had to mess with silicone and other less capable seals and glues.

My advice, Buy a quart and throw it straight in the freezer and do the critical things before the expiry on the can.

Frank