[Rv8Medic]

I am fitting the canopy frame to the fuselage. Directions say the rails should measure 25 5/8" apart. The canopy frame rollers should fit in the middle of the rails. I've read and heard from builders that using Sikaflex to bond the canopy to the canopy frame results in the frame widening approx 1" or more. I'm told the canopy actually stretches the frame wider. Has anyone done this and if so did you "squeeze" the frame an inch or so to account for the widening of the frame after canopy bonding? I'm also told that if I mount the canopy to the frame with screws (tap the canopy frame) that the frame remains the same width. Anyone?

Lastly, regarding the forward portion of the canopy rail that mounts on the turtleback, is there a measurement or means by which to determine how far forward to mount the rail. I didn't see anything in the plans re this issue. Thanks!

 

[skyking902001]

Denver, I could not find a reference as to how far into the canopy receptacle the rear rail goes. I set mine so that the tapered portion of the 805 spacer lays flat in the receptacle. It does not quite touch the nylon spacer block used to hold the pin. I did put a slight taper on the block so it could be removed without removing the rail.

I am planning to glue the canopy to the frame also. I haven't heard of the canopy spreading the frame from using Sika. I can't see why gluing vs screwing the canopy to the frame would make a difference. Would like to hear from others regarding this issue.

Steve
Skyking902001
http://www.mykitlog.com/skyking90200/

 

[Berchmans]

Canopy Frame

I installed a Todd's canopy on my 8 with Sikaflex. With minor pressure from small spring clamps the canopy was held in place while the sika set. I did not experience any spreading of the canopy frame following the installation.

 

[rv8_builder]

Canopy Frame

I used Sikaflex to bond the canopy to the frame and the fiberglass skirts to the canopy. The Sika won?t spread the canopy frame.

What you must remember though is that with Sika you need a gap of at least 1/8" between the parts before bonding. If you bond the canopy to the frame and the fiberglass skirts to the canopy it will be 1/2" wider than a riveted canopy.

 

[Kato's 8]

I used Sikaflex to bond the canopy to the frame and the fiberglass skirts to the canopy. The Sika won?t spread the canopy frame.

What you must remember though is that with Sika you need a gap of at least 1/8" between the parts before bonding. If you bond the canopy to the frame and the fiberglass skirts to the canopy it will be 1/2" wider than a riveted canopy.

HelloAndre and Nico!
Quick question here. The 1/8 gap is for the Sika im guessing and so that makes 1/2" extra total side to side. How will this impact the closing of the canopy where the frwd edge of skirt slides under the fwd upper skin? This confuses me as it seems a tight fit just with the fram sliding fwd without the canopy on it. Can you elaborate some on what youve seen so far regarding this?
Thanks
Bill

 

[rv8_builder]

HelloAndre and Nico!
Quick question here. The 1/8 gap is for the Sika im guessing and so that makes 1/2" extra total side to side. How will this impact the closing of the canopy where the frwd edge of skirt slides under the fwd upper skin? This confuses me as it seems a tight fit just with the fram sliding fwd without the canopy on it. Can you elaborate some on what youve seen so far regarding this?
Thanks
Bill

Bill,

That is correct, 4 x 1/8" Sika gaps = 1/2" side to side (if measured at the top edge of the canopy skirts)

The canopy skirt doesn?t slide under the fwd upper skin. You want it to be flush so that the windscreen fairing can cover the joint.

I had to build up the aft edges of the fwd upper skin with epoxy filler to get them in line with the canopy skirts. The filler is about 1/4" on each side.
If I had to do this again, I would adjust the fwd width of the canopy frame so that the canopy skirts line up with the fwd upper skin (with the 1/8" Sika spacers in place).