C

C-GRVT

Well Known Member
I am just about to mount my engine (Aerosport IO-360 vertical induction) which has installed a rear mounted PCU5000 governor.
I would be grateful for help in determining the proper routing for the governor hose, and the orientation of the 45 degree fitting (already installed) for the hose in the governor pad.
I think that orienting the fitting will be much easier to do before the engine is on the mount.
The engine came with the governor already installed, and an installed Aeroquip hose ((AF466), running from the governor pad to the front of the engine.
As I hoisted the engine into position, it seems clear that the routing of the governor hose will be a problem at the governor end.
The 45 degree fitting on the governor pad is pointing back and up toward the right top corner of the firewall (actually to the centre of the firewall mounted battery box). The result is that the hose loops towards the battery box (it will touch it if installed this way).
The hose comes with two adel clamps. It seems probable that these are intended to attach to sump bolts, running the hose alongside the block under the intakes, but the hose is sufficiently large that it will interfere with the two aluminum tubes that run from the heads to the block above the intake tubes and attached at the block with hose and clamps if it is run along the side of the block.
Any thoughts or photos on how to orient the 45 degree fitting at the governor and how to route and mount the hose?
Thanks,
Bill Brooks
Ottawa, ON
engine on hoist, ready to be mounted - stuck!
 
OK..............

Gil,
that does indeed help!
I can see this is going to be a steep (but educational) learning curve.
Next question! The fitting coming out of the governor mount is a 45 degree steel fitting, with a nut, washer and rubber o-ring (in that order) on the engine side of the fitting.
How does that get tightened into the engine?
If I back off the nut all the way possible and tighten the fitting by hand against the o-ring, the orientation is wrong. Any more seems like it will crush the o-ring. I can do it less, and tighten the nut against the washer and o-ring, but that leaves the fitting loose (able to be turned by hand in the pad) so that can't be right.
Is the nut just to snug the o-ring against the 45 degree chamfer on the threaded hole? if so, does one apply just enough torque to compress the o-ring?I've never seen a fitting like this before.
Bill Brooks
Ottawa, Canada,
engine hanging on the hoist
 
It shouldn't crush...

C-GRVT said:
Gil,
that does indeed help!
....If I back off the nut all the way possible and tighten the fitting by hand against the o-ring, the orientation is wrong. Any more seems like it will crush the o-ring. I can do it less, and tighten the nut against the washer and o-ring, but that leaves the fitting loose (able to be turned by hand in the pad) so that can't be right.
.....
Bill Brooks
Ottawa, Canada,
engine hanging on the hoist
Click to expand...

..the O-ring. If it's the correct size O-ring it will just be forced down into the 45 degree bevelled area you mention.

Think of the nut as a lock nut...
 
Got it - thanks.
A real time update - I've got three of four engine bolts in - just starting the fourth, so far so good.
For those of you who have a Superior engine, and have the Avery Engine mount installment pins, don't try to use even the short pin on the lower right mount - even though the instructions say use the shorter pin to avoid interfering with the oil dip stick casting, it still interferes and can't be used.
Didn't seem necessary anyway - I found I could get the third (lower right) mounting bolt in by loosening the top two (already installed) bolts, and pulling up on the engine with the hoist (effectively tilting the engine up) and opening the gap a bit between the engine and mount.
hope the fourth cooperates as well.
Oh, and it is possible to do it alone (so far).
Bill Brooks
Ottawa Canada
engine (almost) in
 
Like Bill, I have a vertical draft (not that it matters) IO-360. Superior supplied my engine with an Aeroquip firesleeved governor hose and a couple of Adel clamps.

After staring and futzing for some time, I don't see a clean way to secure the hose using a routing under cylinders 1 & 3, let alone getting it through the #1 baffling once I get to that point. It's big and ungainly, and wants to interfere with the oil return tubes under the cylinders and eventually no doubt, the baffle tensioning rods once I install those.

Does anyone have a photo of a governor hose (not hard line) installation?

Another option I'm considering is going up and over, then through the aft wall of the #3 baffling and down to the governor. That actually seems to me to be a much cleaner/easier installation, possibly using Adel clamps at a couple of the top case bolts. Any compelling reason not to do so?

Thanks!
 
Like Lars, I find the hose bulky. If one tries to fit it like the Lycoming manual suggests, with two adel clamps along the sump, the hose (being much bulkier than the stainless steel line) won't clear the oil return lines, is left with a fairly large unsupported loop through the engine mount and perhaps at the front as well, depending on clamp location, and is either bent at quite a tight radius at the front, or the adel clamps have to go almost side by side along the sump, as unlike the hard line, the hose does not easily follow the sump contour as it narrows towards the front.
I'm thinking of getting a stainless line instead, but the hose is supplied, Lycoming says a hose is OK - but how is it run and how is it clamped to the engine?
Bill Brooks
Ottawa, Canada
RV-6A finishing
 
I believe...

C-GRVT said:
Like Lars, I find the hose bulky. If one tries to fit it like the Lycoming manual suggests, with two adel clamps along the sump, the hose (being much bulkier than the stainless steel line) won't clear the oil return lines, is left with a fairly large unsupported loop through the engine mount and perhaps at the front as well, depending on clamp location, and is either bent at quite a tight radius at the front, or the adel clamps have to go almost side by side along the sump, as unlike the hard line, the hose does not easily follow the sump contour as it narrows towards the front.
I'm thinking of getting a stainless line instead, but the hose is supplied, Lycoming says a hose is OK - but how is it run and how is it clamped to the engine?
Bill Brooks
Ottawa, Canada
RV-6A finishing
Click to expand...

...that the hose specified by Lycoming (TSO-C53A Type D) is the integral firesleeve teflon hose (usually brown?), and would be a much smaller diameter than a hose with the red slide-on fire sleeve.
 
Hi Bill and Lars,
I too have an Aerosport IO360 M1B.
it was also supplied with the flex line and adel clamps .
I could never satisfy myself trying to route it adequately.
In the end, Bart shipped me a S/S line to replace it. Perfect.
I cant think of any reason the flex line would be superior to the s/s part.
cheers
Richard
RV-7 Sydney Aus.
 
Thanks, all.

I've seen the Lycoming service instruction, have it printed and lying on my workbench, in fact. But it's quite vague about the hose installation. As for my Superior-supplied hose, it's Aeroquip, with brown integral firesleeve. Attempting to route this one is bad enough.

I did some searching and found Steve Sampson's blog. He routed his over the top as I proposed in my last post:
http://gikonfwf.blogspot.com/2007/12/baffles-and-prop-governor-oil-line.html

Since the hose I have is Lycoming-approved and the supplied block & governor fitting are steel, I'm not too keen on forking out for the oh-so-expensive stainless steel part. I've seen the routing of the stainless tube, as my hangar partner has one on his airplane (not an RV, but I've forgiven him). I'm leaning towards Steve's solution, which can be seen in the top photo in the link above.
 
Last edited:
Steve Sampson said:
Lar, the other end is visible in the third and fourth picture here if you are still interested.

I only have about 80 hours on it but it has worked just fine for me. I would do it again that way just to keep it out of the crowded area under the engine.
Click to expand...

I'm still very interested, thanks for posting the link Steve. Running the line... er, hose... will be one of the first orders of business when I get the baffling completed (still naively hoping for this time next week).
 
It's a...

jdeas said:
I have this setup on an older engine where the front is clamped with an adel where this doc shows a metal bar. The short metal bar is apparently used on newer systems with shorter alternators.
Does anyone have a part number for that clamping bar? My docs are too old or simply show a pic with no part numbers.
Click to expand...

...Lycoming 75165 "CLIP, prop gov oil line support" - at a pricey $7...

http://www.aeroinstock.com/products/NzUxNjU=/6062/28258/product_detail/index.html
 
Lars said:
Thanks, all.

... I'm not too keen on forking out for the oh-so-expensive stainless steel part. I've seen the routing of the stainless tube, as my hangar partner has one on his airplane (not an RV, but I've forgiven him)...
Click to expand...

Another option would be to simply make the SS tube yourself. The materials cost is about $20.00. I've done this before and it is not hard at all. If you have an example to go by (your hangar partner's), all the better.
 
Toobuilder said:
Another option would be to simply make the SS tube yourself. The materials cost is about $20.00. I've done this before and it is not hard at all. If you have an example to go by (your hangar partner's), all the better.
Click to expand...

Always a spoiler at the party ;) That would be far too rational.

Seriously, I guess I should look into that. Biggest issue will be finding a flaring tool for the 3/8" st. steel, though there are a few well-equipped hangars around me I can turn to with a woeful look.
 
Toobuilder said:
The same tools you use for the 3/8 fuel lines will work just fine.
Click to expand...

I have a Parker Rolo-Flair. The information sheet that came with the thing claims it's for aluminum & copper tubing only, which is why I wrote the comment about finding a tool. Have you used a Rolo-Flair to flare 3/8" stainless? I'm not averse to trying, but I'd rather not thrash the thing either.
 
Interesting... I'm not familiar with the Parker tool, but I have a hard time imagining why SS would hurt it in any way. I would think at worst it would simply fail to make a proper flare for some reason. Perhaps someone here has direct experience?
 
do it yourself

I used the rolo-flair and a lot of oil and made the line from stainless steel. Just go slowly while making the flare. The line goes over the top, which is for sure a much easier routing. It took me two tries to make the line, but it has been perfect now for almost 6 years.
 
Toobuilder said:
Interesting... I'm not familiar with the Parker tool, but I have a hard time imagining why SS would hurt it in any way. I would think at worst it would simply fail to make a proper flare for some reason. Perhaps someone here has direct experience?
Click to expand...

Michael, I'm guessing it's because the forming cone on the tool is on the soft side. Mostly I hadn't attempted it because, unlike the ratchet handle that gets used for a hammer (who, me?) but can be easily replaced at the local Ace Hardware if necessary, the Rolo-Flair parts are a little less convenient to come by. Since it's been done (see below) I'm going to give it a try.


RobertD said:
I used the rolo-flair and a lot of oil and made the line from stainless steel. Just go slowly while making the flare. The line goes over the top, which is for sure a much easier routing. It took me two tries to make the line, but it has been perfect now for almost 6 years.
Click to expand...

Thanks for chiming in, Robert. Any chance of a photo?

Again, thanks everyone for the input. This may seem like minor stuff but by thinking this sort of thing through in advance, I find I work more efficiently when I get to the hangar. Thus speeding the completion of my project :)
 
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