W

woxofswa

Well Known Member
I'm about to complete my RV-10 rudder and realized that I ordered the wrong sealant.
It appears to me that using the tank sealant for the trailing edge is a "borrowed" task anyway. Would there be any suggestions of a different product to accomplish the trailing edge task?
Maybe a slow cure epoxy or other adhesive?
 
I tried using T88 once but it didn't hold very well. The tank sealent did a better job, just be sure to apply only a very thin coat.
 
i used GMS

it is an rtv almost identical to permatex Ultra black. IT DID NOT WORK AT ALL.i had to drill out all of the rivets and do it again with proseal. which i might add sticks like nothing ive ever seen.
 
woxofswa said:
I'm about to complete my RV-10 rudder and realized that I ordered the wrong sealant.
It appears to me that using the tank sealant for the trailing edge is a "borrowed" task anyway. Would there be any suggestions of a different product to accomplish the trailing edge task?
Maybe a slow cure epoxy or other adhesive?
Click to expand...

Here is lots of information on pro-seal:

http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/tank_sealant.pdf

For your purpose a polysulfide adheasive available at any marine supply store should be fine. You could probably also use:

http://www.eclecticproducts.com/e6000.htm

Available at any craft store.

Good luck,
DaveB
RV6
 
IN the same boat

I'm about to get to doing the trailing edge on my rudder... I bought some tank adhesive from Aircraft Spruce but I'm concerned Id burn a fairly large tube for a small task....

I also bought some RTV (not the acidic stuff.. the expensive 3145) as a guy who's building a 7 told me I'd need it for the rudder... though I see the plans clearly call for the tank adhesive.

I wish Vans would have mentioned it is needed and not included... if they did I'd have had them through some in with my kit...

Now I'm not sure what to do... any suggestions are welcome... will my RTV suffice or should I burn a tube of tank sealant?
 
I used JB Weld, but if I had it to do again, I would use Proseal. You are going to need it anyway, just be sure to store it in your freezer so you don't have to worry about shelf life.
 
Please reconsider using JB Weld.

JB Weld is heavy and will not hold up long term. It sets up brittle and will crack out.
Best thing to use is fuel tank sealant. No suitable substitute that I know of.
 
Last edited:
Just buy one (large) can of proseal now, keep it in the fridge, and you can use it throughout your build for all the (many) odds and ends where it is necessary or useful. For non-(tank)sealing purposes, it has a virtually limitless shelf-life if kept in the fridge. Besides, you're going to probably need more than one can to do your tanks anyway, especially for a -10.

I used T-88 on one trailing elevator trailing edge. It was messier and much harder to clean up than proseal.
 
Last edited:
I used 3m panel bond adhesive, we use it to glue 1/4 panels and roofs on body shop repairs. Very rugged stuff
 
If I understood correctly, the idea of bonding is just for convenience in riveting and keeping the edge straight. I remember somebody (Roberta?) mentioned that she riveted trailing edge straight without any sealant. Also Ted Chang reported that strong wind gust bent his rudder and ripped good part of glued and riveted trailing edge open... Rivets failed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.