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FredMagare

Well Known Member
I've been Pro-Sealing the ribs in the left fuel tank (using Rick Galati's method - which is WONDERFUL! The man's a GENIUS! [see link in post #7]). It would seem, however, that I made a mixing ratio error on one of two ribs I installed the other day. :eek: I'm pretty sure that I mixed one batch at a ratio of 20:1 rather than the required 10:1. (Not enough activator). The sealant on one is still gooey and a lighter grey than the other.

Here's the question: Will I have to remove that rib, clean-up, and re-install it, or will the sealant merely take longer to cure?

I think I already know (and fear) what the correct answer is but I think I need to hear it from others. :mad:
 
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As I understand it, the black stuff is the catalyst which triggers the reaction. If you mixed the black stuff in at 1:100, the proseal should eventually cure. However, you might not want to wait that long.

One thing that can speed the reaction in catalyzed materials is heat. I experienced this with my fuel tanks when I completed one of 'em in cool weather and it took a week or so before the proseal fully cured. On the other end of the scale, I have used proseal in hot weather where it didn't last as long as the listed working life before getting pretty firm. Use that fact to your advantage:

Put the fuel tank outside in the hottest environment you cand find. Maybe in direct sunlight, maybe inside a black vehicle in direct sunlight. I think a few days of this treatment might speed the reaction and you might not have to pull the tank apart.

If you the stuff doesn't start firming up pretty well in a few days, it is time to pull it apart.

Good luck...
 
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Time is the cure

I did the same thing on a friends tanks and the proseal did finally cure. It has been flying 2+ years now and no leaky.
 
It should cure fine. A word of caution about storing it in a black car; It may take a while to get the "smell" out of the car.
 
Thanks

Thank you all, but I had to make a decision. :eek: I was thinking about it (how could I not?), and eventually came to the conclusion that so long as I was having doubts, those doubts were reason enough to pull the rib out. (Which was not difficult at all.) I was trying to avoid the use of MEK (I've been doing very well with acetone and lacquer thinner) but figure I can clean the rib and tank interior with that. (Appropriate hazmat precautions will be in place.)

I'll have to pay more attention to my measurements! ;)

Again, thanks all for the advice! (I freakin' LOVE this site! Thanks Doug.)
 
Pro-Seal Method?

FredMagare said:
I've been Pro-Sealing the ribs in the left fuel tank (using Rick Galati's method - which is WONDERFUL! The man's a GENIUS!).
Click to expand...

I've just started on my tanks... where can I find some info on Rick's method?
 
Talking about screw ups, I dimpled the tank skins for the baffle rivets instead of c/sinking. I thought I would have trouble placing the baffle for a good seal, but it actually was very easy to get the baffle in position. It avoids the difficulty of positioning the baffle accurately as the dimples just slip into place. I also prefer the appearance.
On my next RV I think I'll make the same mistake.
 
jimgreen said:
Talking about screw ups, I dimpled the tank skins for the baffle rivets instead of c/sinking. I thought I would have trouble placing the baffle for a good seal, but it actually was very easy to get the baffle in position. It avoids the difficulty of positioning the baffle accurately as the dimples just slip into place. I also prefer the appearance.
On my next RV I think I'll make the same mistake.
Click to expand...

If I had it to do over, I would have done this as well. The countersinks are hard to get deep enough and these rivets tend to stand proud after riveting. I don't think it would have been hard at all to get the baffle to go past the dimples.
 
I dimpled the tank skins by accident as well
Hope I dont have leaks.
On the other hand I like dimples more than CS.
 
FredMagare said:
I've been Pro-Sealing the ribs in the left fuel tank (using Rick Galati's method - which is WONDERFUL! The man's a GENIUS! [see link in post #7])... :
Click to expand...


I checked out Rick's post and saw a link he posted which was... http://tinyurl.com/egfol. It's a link to Van's webstore, but it says the product cannot be found. Does anyone know what the product is and where it can be found?

Thanks,
Bill Settle
-8 Wings
(Soon to be Tank Builder)
 
Bill,
I think that URL was for the sealant gun in Van's Accessory Catalog. I've got one and it looks like a regular caulking gun that you'd get from Home Depot or Wal-Mart. It uses a Proseal cartridge also sold by Van's.
 
Auburntsts said:
Bill,
I think that URL was for the sealant gun in Van's Accessory Catalog. I've got one and it looks like a regular caulking gun that you'd get from Home Depot or Wal-Mart. It uses a Proseal cartridge also sold by Van's.
Click to expand...
I received mine from Vans a week ago. When I pulled it out of the package there in big bold letters was a sticker with the name HARBOR FREIGHT written on it. So now I am buying Harbor Freight products directly from Vans! The next time I get down to Harbor Freight I am going to see if I can find this caulking gun on their shelf.
 
RVbySDI said:
I received mine from Vans a week ago. When I pulled it out of the package there in big bold letters was a sticker with the name HARBOR FREIGHT written on it. So now I am buying Harbor Freight products directly from Vans! The next time I get down to Harbor Freight I am going to see if I can find this caulking gun on their shelf.
Click to expand...

Maybe you could post a photo of it with a ruler along side to give it a sense of scale? It sounds like something that can be procured at a savings.
 
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