txaviator

txaviator

Well Known Member
I just Pro Sealed the trailing edge of my rudder. Am I correct that after it has set-up, the MEK will still remove any spots of Pro Seal that remain on the outer skins, etc? I got most of the excess wiped down, but some will still be in places I missed.

Also, any tips on how long to let everything set up? I have two pieces of aluminum angle clamped down the sides, with cleco's also in every hole. If the T/E isn't straight, I'll never know why. When I spoke to Van's a few days ago, they suggested letting everything set for 48-hours. However, I could have sworn I heard 6-7 days somewhere before?

Thanks,
 
It all denpends.....

Garry, the time the proseal takes really depends on the ambient temperature you are working in. Understandably, the warmer it is, the faster the proseal will set. Your mix ratio will also be a factor. If you were less than 10:1, you can expect a faster set, more than 10:1 a slower set.

I did my tanks when it was in the 80's in my garage and my proseal was set in 24 hrs. I think Van's is right on the money here, assuming it is warm where you are now. The 6-7 days you heard about might have come from someone doing their Proseal work in the winter or even possibly using proseal that had set around for awile.

A way that I tested the amount my proseal had set was that if I could still leave a thumbprint in the excess I left on a mixing pad, then it needed to set more.

YMMV.


Regards,
 
Thanks, Jeff

I appreciate the reply. It is REALLY hot here in North Texas right now. The 90's are the norm, and temps in the 100's are being forecast. Therefore, I think it will set up rather quickly!

Although it may be overkill, I know my mixing ratios were exact based on the method... I bought a cheap digital scale from the aviation department of Wal-Mart, and mixed the exact quantities.

Oh, and what about the remaining Pro Seal? Will MEK still take it off after it has set?

Thanks!
 
Gary--I had mine clecoed together for about 5 days (it was cold in Feb/Mar when I did mine). Like you, I had some Proseal on the outside of the skin in a few places where it got trapped between the angle and the skin. In my case, MEK took it right off. I'm not sure how long it would have to sit to not come off with MEK (I've tried nothing longer than those 5 - 55 degree days)), but I would think a couple days would certainly be OK.

Good luck. Hope those trailing edges come out straight. I bet they will.

Steve
 
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Thanks, Steve.

Hey, how are the wings coming along? I am really looking forward to receiving mine in a few weeks.

Also, are you eventually going with a slow build or quick build fuse? Somehow I had missed it on the Van's site, but just found out that if I am planning a QB fuse (which I may), I need to tell Van's before my SB wing kit ships. They will keep the center section parts, to send to the QB fuselage factory overseas. This way they can build the QB fuse around my exact center section. Which way are you going?

Good to hear from you. Aren't you off all summer? If you are, how cool is that? Getting to build EVERYDAY!
 
Proseal notes

txaviator said:
Oh, and what about the remaining Pro Seal? Will MEK still take it off after it has set?
Click to expand...

The longer proseal has an opportunity to cure, the more difficult it is to remove. It will, however, come off. One of the more common ways to remove proseal, cured or otherwise is to use a plastic scraper so as not to scratch or damage the aluminum surface then desolve/wipe the remaining proseal residue away with the vigorous application of MEK soaked cheesecloth, beartex, or scotchbrite. The photos depict a standard plastic scraper used in aerospace. A similar or workable design can be easily fashioned from a suitable automotive ice scraper. Note the differing widths on either end of this scraper. The bevels can be quickly restored using a bench sander.
15scraper2mr.jpg
15scraperprofile1du.jpg

Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
 
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