C

CDBridgesRV7A

Active Member
Good Day Folks,

At the risk of starting a primer war (which I hope this does not turn into), what would be the best primer to use for all my internal parts? I will be flying in a salt water environment (East Coast of Canada - Nova Scotia).

As well it can get pretty chilly here in the winter time, so I would need something that is useable in cold temps.

I'm building my RV-7A in my garage. It is heated with a wood stove and a ceramic overhead heater, however it is not gyprocked nor insulated. I can get it quiet toasty in there during cold days but it doesn't take long to cool down.

Based on that, any suggestions on what primer to use? Thanks

Cheers

Chris
 
Thanks

Thanks ABC, I figured there was a thread already started but when I did a search nothing really relevant came up. This will help out!

Cape Breton is stunning at best, especially during the fall when the colours are out. If you are a golfer this is the place to go (other than Prince Edward Island during the summer.) Thanks

Cheers

Chris
 
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Epoxy Primer

I live on the West Coast and decided to use a good primer for the same reasons you did. I ended up using PPG Super Korapon epoxy primer and am very satisfied with it. It is used on commercial aircraft cargo holds and is a "fluid resistant" primer, meaning any aircraft hydraulic, lubricating oil or fuel. It is however, a pain to apply and will add many hours to your build. The prep before applying the paint is Alumiprep 33 cleaner followed by an Alodine treatment. I have been waiting for the warmer spring weather so I can paint outside which I did today. Looking forward to getting my fuselage skins and lower wing skins painted in the next few months.
 
Primer wars, primer wars!!! :eek:

Ok, no, seriously... Chris, you asked what would be the "best primer" for internal parts. That question can be interpreted and answered in a few different ways.

If you're looking for the primer that performs the best with respect to corrosion protection, that question can be answered. Use an aerospace fluid resistant epoxy primer designed for exactly this purpose such as PPG Super Koropon or Akzo-Nobel 463-12-8. This type of primer is the best hands down, and as far as I know, that much is not controversial. If that was your question, there's your answer.

But this class of epoxy primer is also significantly more expensive and more labor intensive than other solutions. Hence the next obvious question, which is much more difficult to answer objectively: What is the best choice of primer for me, balancing "good enough" corrosion protection versus cost and ease of use? What is "good enough"? This gets highly subjective, and this is where the primer wars ignite. If that's the nature of your question, then as others have said, get familiar with the search utilities and search the archives. This topic has been discussed ad nauseum over the years. It's all there. But as you pour through it, you will notice (perhaps you already have) that there are tons and tons of opinion and very little fact. And so the wars rage on.

Good luck!
 
Roee,

Ya, I already noticed that in the search I did on these forums. There are all kinds of opinions and not a lot of fact.

What I was looking for was the best primer for me in my situation/locale while balancing cosy and ease of use. I hear a lot of folks are using the SW P60G2 but what kind of corrossion protection, if any, does this give, especially in a salt water environment?

Cheers

Chris
 
the best surface finish

if it were me I'd use an epoxy primer the best protection you can use along with a good alodine prep.
 
why is primer enough

I will not be using much primer as i have desided not to prime but of the parts i do prime (rattle cans ) why don't i have to top coat with paint? regardless of the primer used? the word primer confuses me. and since i'm not doing much primering why not just spray a paint on instead of primer?( I know primering would be better but I'm not going to do it except in certain locations)
 
Bill V - I'm thinking along the same lines. I would like to prime the inner parts with a rattle can and then the outside would be covered in primer and paint to protect it from the elements. For those who have built before us, is this an OK approach, or should we really be thinking of priming the inside parts with epoxy primers?

Once the plane is finished and buttoned up, how likely is it that the inside parts will show signs of corrossion if they are only covered in a rattle can primer? I'm thinking of something like Tempo Primer or Mar-Hyde Single stage self etching Primer, which are two examples of what Vans recommends as part of the list in the preview plans (5A for the 7A builders)?

Cheers

Chris
 
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Chris et al...

Trying to avoid "primer wars" but some thoughts:
  1. The Build Manual has some good "advice", "Facts" you will be offered plenty, but usually contradictory!
  2. The basic "need" for priming is a "waterproof layer" between the atmosphere and metals vulnerable. That said, some primers (Zinc Chromate? others?) in addition have chemical properties that reduce the corrosion degree as it occurs (like a sacrificial anode on a boat hull)
The waterproof layer can be the "AlClad" - but this is easily damaged.

I would like to prime the inner parts with a rattle can and then the outside would be covered in primer and paint to protect it from the elements.
Click to expand...
My feeling is it is the inside that needs the better protection. The outside is accessible, visible, will easily dry off, and any corrosion seen and treated. The inside is vulnerable, has water traps, so will not dry out, cannot be easily inspected, and when any corrosion is evident, it will have got "outside" and be extensive :mad:

You will gets lots of people here say use Primer X, or Y as "it is better". That may be the case, but also plenty use no primer, or poorly apply it. My view would be that ANY primer will be of almost equal benefit in practical terms, so long as it is correctly and completely applied.

You then get down to the other factors - cost, weight, ease of application, health considerations, durability.

What do we use? Self Etch Zinc Chromate 2 part PR30B sprayed on. Factors we judge for it:
  1. Very "durable" - it is far better than rattle cans we tried at staying on surfaces in the subsequent building assembly etc.
  2. It is light (compared to expoxy)
  3. It dries quickly (minutes)
  4. Not overly expensive, and easily available
  5. It does require health precautions / air fed masks
  6. It does not need, but can be, further painted over.
  7. Whilst it is normally sprayed, small quantities can be easily mixed up and painted on for touch up / v small parts.
Andy & Ellie Hill
RV-8 G-HILZ
RV-8tors
 
I used a self etching primer with great results. Other members of the local VAF wing used self etching primers with good results and long service on their airframes. That being said...if I were to live in the environment you do, I would use a good two part epoxy primer no questions asked.
 
Thanks guys for the responses! Much appreciated. Unfortunately, I'm still undecided as to what way to go (epoxy or other). I guess I'll research it a little more and see what I come up with. Thanks all. As always you folks are the best!!

Cheers

Chris
 
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