[Webb]

It appears that there are 2 areas that have a major potential for wire failure due to motion.

#1 - Stick - PTT, Trim, AP disconnect, Smoke, Camera, etc....
#2 - Rudder - Nav/Strobe

Best I can tell to prevent failure is:
#1 - Stranded wire
#2 - Braided sleeve to reduce the potential for insulation abrassion
#3 - Attachment on each end of span covered
#4 - Pick the area of least movement between span
#5 - Minimize movement where wire terminates such as the switch

Would anyone please share any installation tips that aren't obvious? It's like trying to figure out a magic trick. Once it goes through the hole - now you see it, now you don't.

For example, I saw a good photo of the wire entering the bottom of the stick. It was secured to the rib, had a braided sleeve on it, went through a rubber grommet, but then what?? What happens in the stick to keep the from wiggling around and coming loose from the switch? Does it get doubled over so you can pull the top off to service but when you push it back in the compression of the double prevents this?

As the magician says, now comes the tricky part........

Regarding the rudder:
#1 - After it enters, there is almost 2 feet for the wire to wiggle around - how is it secured to prevent the wiggle?
#2 - What is the best routing from fuselage to rudder?
#3 - To service the tail light, I want a disconnect plug for the light - How to secure it?

Thanks in advance

 

[jdeas]

Shrink wrap as well

Around vibration I have the best luck stranded/crimped with a good crimp tool then covered wih shrink wrap to reduce the flex around the connector. No solder. YMMV.

 

[24Golf]

Garden Hose

Sting,

I would jut use a piece of garden hose, stuff all of the wires in there and then wrap with "duck" tape, this worked for me on an old aluminum boat I had!

Sorry... just had to chime in - I will be interested in the real responses to.

PAUL

 

[az_gila]

Almost...

Sting,

I would jut use a piece of garden hose, stuff all of the wires in there and then wrap with "duck" tape, this worked for me on an old aluminum boat I had!

Sorry... just had to chime in - I will be interested in the real responses to.

PAUL

Or to be a little more correct on your RV.... ...but same principle.

Feeding the wires through a short length of PVC or polyurethane flexible tubing that is achored well at both the moving end and the fixed end also works well.

The flexible tubing will make the wires "curve" nicely with no kinks.

 

[Webb]

You're in luck

Sting,

I would jut use a piece of garden hose, stuff all of the wires in there and then wrap with "duck" tape, this worked for me on an old aluminum boat I had!

Sorry... just had to chime in - I will be interested in the real responses to.

PAUL

You big duffer - You're in luck. I ordered a 10 foot piece of braided wrap and will only need a few few. Sell you the remaining for dime and a cold beer.

Gil - I still am interested in those "hidden" areas you can't see. The stick is intuitive, the rudder is really the part I'm not sure about.

Regarding the shrink wrap - I feel like the shrink wrap king at times. The local electronics store has this double thickness with glue inside. Stuff sticks and won't slide.

 

[24Golf]

You big duffer - You're in luck. I ordered a 10 foot piece of braided wrap and will only need a few few. Sell you the remaining for dime and a cold beer.

How bout just two beers...

 

[Webb]

Seriously

Aside from having fun (Paul must have nitrous hooked up in his mask), I really am not sure how to handle the wire run and securing of it once it enters the rudder.

You have lateral motion from pilot control. You also have a great deal of other motion and my thought is inertia creates an environment for potential failure of the wire. What's the best way to handle?