wtpfrenzy

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Last night I was cutting the stiffeners in my practice kit to get some technique down before I start on the real thing this week. I was using aviation snips for the cuts and I noticed that this method yields inconsistent results, as well as twisting the material a bit. Read some of the other posts that builders are using band-saws for these and other misc cuts (will definitely be adding one to the workshop). Was just wondering what other recommended cutting tools I should have? Thanks in advance!!!

-Robert H.
 
Although I have them, I've never used my tin snips (which are best used on flat sheet) on my project. Without a doubt, my band saw has carried most of the load, but I also use a cutoff wheel in a die grinder and in a Dremel quite a bit. On a couple of occasions I have also used a large cutoff wheel in my chop saw.
 
Use whatever you have to rough cut then clean up with a disk sander

Snips are fine, band saw fine, but cleaning up the cut and radius on the edges is really quick with a disk sander.
Snips are tricky to learn to use properly but they exist for a reason and have withstood the test of time for any sheet metal shop.
 
I used a throatless shear to cut that long angle on the stiffeners inside the control surfaces. Available in most sheet metal shops and Harbor Freight.
A large paper shear (like the one at work in the copy room) works well too.
 
Horizontal bandsaw, vertical bandsaw, die grinder w/ cutoff wheel, hacksaw, plasma cutter, oxyacetylene torch... oh wait, that one's for steel...

Seriously, nothing wrong with snips, I use mine a lot, but you need to leave a bit of extra material so you can clean up the rough edge.

If you don't have one yet, I recommend getting a bench grinder and installing the popular 3M Scotchbrite wheel sold by many of the tool vendors (and Van's too, I think). Huge time saver, and will make you less reluctant to use the snips, since edge cleanup afterwards is so easy. When I bought mine I was told that one wheel would last for the entire project. As I get towards the finish line, it's looking like that assessment was correct.
 
Tin snips will always leave a mangly edge sorta. You can use them, but you have to stay far enough from your cut line so that when you finish the edge with a file or scotch wheel you have eliminated the waves & serration marks from the snip blades. Band saw is good, but I prefer a simple compound mitre saw with a crosscut or plywood blade for angle chopping. Yields straight lines & edges that can be cut very close to your mark. For flat sheets you can't beat a throatless shear (Harbor Fright $90). I even use the shear on angles too. Cut to the bend, reverse, cut to the bend, snap it off. 3 swipes with a file and it's square. The throatless units can do straight cuts and pretty tight curves that are right on your lines and require almost no dressing. Big time saver, quiet, no dust, and less likely to draw builder blood as long as you keep your stray digits out of the way. Mount your shear on top of a 4x6 with a 2' x 3' plywood base (use bottom support angleage). This way you can scoot it around the shop and have it right next to you.
 
Thanks again for all the suggestions!! I had planned on getting a band saw this week, and looks like I will be adding the die grinder and cut off wheels to the shopping list. Ordered a SB wheel last week.. I'm sure I'll be picking up the throatless shear eventually as well. Thanks!!

-Robert H.
 
adel nibbler

it only takes out a small punch of metal but it doesnot deform the metal sheet and as you move down the line stay out side the line and then file to the line
 
it only takes out a small punch of metal but it doesnot deform the metal sheet and as you move down the line stay out side the line and then file to the line

Forgot about that one. Another handy tool for intricate shapes.