william weesner said:
has anyone noticed the powder coat on the steel parts being excessively thick. i deburred the firewall weldments and the paint looks deep enough to swallow a rivet head on one of the mounts. i hate to sand it off but something has to give or it will do just that.only one mount is this way but i remember the elevator horns being similar. : :rolleyes:
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I just riveted mine on my -9 yesterday with no paint problems. The shop heads will just push away any excess paint when formed. That said, on the -9 plans, as others before me have noted, the rivet callouts on the drawings are 1/2-1 full size short in many locations, so just check lengths before riveting. By the way, backriveting the firewall is the way to go! Good luck.
 
Powder coating

Can't say much about the powder coated parts on my -10 "goodies", but I had an experience with parts that were coated, (by the builder) on a Searey amphib. The spindle arrm that support the gear axle would not fit inside the gear leg. In addition, the brake caliper bracket had similar difficulty. I volunteered to help, and founfdthat the powder coated part had an excess of 1/16 +, powder build up. It was removed, the spindle support fit in the leg as well as the caliper bracket fitting as well.
My impression was that it simply been overdone. After all, more is better.
Properly applied, powder coating should be fine.
T88
N968TP
 
alpinelakespilot2000 said:
I just riveted mine on my -9 yesterday with no paint problems. The shop heads will just push away any excess paint when formed. That said, on the -9 plans, as others before me have noted, the rivet callouts on the drawings are 1/2-1 full size short in many locations, so just check lengths before riveting. By the way, backriveting the firewall is the way to go! Good luck.
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Not to get off topic, but what's with Van's rivet length callouts anyhow??? I get the rivet, read the comment in the manual that says "The rivet callouts are correct", and then measure it and it's clearly not even close. I understand his argument about not wanting to put a rivet that's too long for fear of clenching it over, but most of the time it's only, like, 1/64" too long.
 
jcoloccia said:
Not to get off topic, but what's with Van's rivet length callouts anyhow??? I get the rivet, read the comment in the manual that says "The rivet callouts are correct", and then measure it and it's clearly not even close. I understand his argument about not wanting to put a rivet that's too long for fear of clenching it over, but most of the time it's only, like, 1/64" too long.
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I've thought about ordering some half size rivets (I think Spruce has them though I don't think Vans does) just to have some for times like these. Alternatively, what I've done in the past is simply hold the "too long" rivet with some needle-nose pliers and grind off just the tapered portion of the shank with the scotchbrite wheel. That seems to take off half a size and they then squeeze perfectly and give the proper shop head. As long as I don't have too many to do, this seems to work out OK.
 
rivet length

this has been the case too many times with me so i bought a pair of rivet cutters and long rivets of various styles. then you can hit one here or there but if you need a bunch its a pain. then if there is a stack up of parts (rib, skin, stiffener ,etc) and you have primed you will end up short for sure. i beleive vans lengths are for unprimed components..i know it doesnt seem like much but i have consistently seen this in the callouts when and they only miss by a smidgeon.
 
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