RVG8tor

RVG8tor

Well Known Member
I plan a paint polish finish and figured I should polish the bottom or at least make a good attempt at it while I had is on the rotisserie.

I am using Nuvite and started to compound with F7, initially I get the black on the edges with shine in the middle, as I work right to left it starts to go from a shine to filling the imperfections, these stay no matter how many times I go over them, only using more F7 seems to sure this. I am using a WEN polisher with the lowest speed (1000 rpm). Here is a picture if what I am seeing. The funny part is this makes scratches I could not see before I started show up. I am afraid my QB kit has more imperfections than I thought. I have been over the areas 4-6 times, and they are blending in but slowly, I wonder if I should go for a more aggressive compound? Thanks for any help.

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Hand wipe it

I've polished a few misc. items, including Alclad--but with a different polish. I've had some of the same scratches show up before. Have you tried taking a clean, soft cotton rag and wiping over everything that the power buffer left? That may take care of what you're seeing.

Unless you're polishing on a dirty surface, I doubt that you're creating those scratches.
 
You can eliminate these by using a finer grit and a random-orbit polisher such as a Cylco. But of you are painting anyways, don't worry about it.
 
Now I'm worried

Now you have got me worried Mike. We also have planed a paint polish finish. I did try a small area by hand a while back, and it came up quite well. It didn't get to the mirror finish I expected to get, but it didn't show up the imperfections that the power buff did on yours. But I did use some warm soapy water to wash the area to get rid of the polish around the rivets. so that might have cleaned the polish from the imperfections as well.

Bob'nRobyn (Australia)

RV9a
Waiting on engine to complete F/F
 
Have you seen the videos on eaa.org with kerry forbes shows how to polish a sonex? His sonex definately looks like he knows what he is talking about.
 
Polishing

Mike,
I have some experience polishing lately, as my 8 is "mostly" polished (more polish than paint). I started with G6 though instead of F7. I think a lot of the black you are seeing is the result of using too much polish at once. I too was seeing a lot of the black stuff. It should come off by wiping it with a soft rag wetted with alcohol. Then, try using a smaller amount of polish per a given area. Also, it is important to regularly clean or "fluff" your buffer pad. I turn it to the side and, while running, just hold a screwdriver blade against it to fluff up the nap, then go back to polishing (I don't have one of those fancy spurs). And be careful not to lay the buffer down on the face of the pad. It will surely pick up a piece of sand or grit that will make a mess of your finish. Pretty soon you will see good results.
 
Wipes away

What you see in the photo will wipe away, I was just wondering if I am doing something wrong. I get the initial black swirl with the center being shiny. The directions say to keep working until the black is gone. I seem to get to a point where it stops shinning and then the F7 gets caught up in spots and any area there my be a scratch, like you see in the photo is post one. I guess maybe I am getting too much polish going at once. I really just put a dab about every 3 inches. I will keep at it.

Thanks for the inputs I will take all the advice I can get.
 
I watched a video (you tube I think) some time back of some guys polishing a really bad Airstream trailer, and was surprised at how little polish they were using. I tried it myself and it worked! The black would appear and then disappear quickly. Try searchin You Tube under Airstream.
Good luck,
Jimmy
 
How long

Jim,

I think that video is on the perfectpolish website. How long after the black disappears do you work until you apply more polish. It seems if I keep going over the area after the black is gone I get he caking around imperfections like you see in my photo in post #1?
 
I did a fair amount.....

of polishing on my 6 using nuvite. You really have to cut the finish with a wheel polisher with G6 going to F7. Work the wheel with pressure in the same direction 2" at a time to "heal the metal". Then use C, then S. I found after using the S with a Cyclo buffer, be sure to use the flannel pads (no micro fiber towels). I would go back and wipe the area with Mineral Spirits, this will make the area black again. Use the cyclo buffer with flannel, no polish at this time, you will be amazed at the finish.

On deep scratchs you really have to work it with G6, you may not get rid of all the scratch, but it will heal the edges.

Takes a lot of work, I spent over two weeks just doing the wings intially. Don't get in a hurry. First time is tough, but secondary polishing is easy if you do it the first time right.
 
Stages

Chuck,

I am many month from flying, should I just keep working the when buffer and the F7 (I have to get some G6) but not go up to the C and S until later? I guess my questions is can I do the F7 and then leave it for a few months before doing the other stages or do you have to do it all at once?
 
RVG8tor said:
Chuck,

I am many month from flying, should I just keep working the when buffer and the F7 (I have to get some G6) but not go up to the C and S until later? I guess my questions is can I do the F7 and then leave it for a few months before doing the other stages or do you have to do it all at once?
Click to expand...

I did it all at once, before assembly (wings off), I don't know how it would be to do in stages. Biggest problem I had was everyone just has to touch it and feel it. I was building in a community hangar and most times you just had to hold your tounque. Even today, people walk into my hangar and just have to rub the wings and comment how good it looks. Although my airplane took polishing really well, I have just about decided to paint it. It is like a "touch magnet", it does not matter how many times you tell them. You can't stop it, without appearing as an "Old Grump".

Another problem is glare when flying and parking close to other airplanes, you can melt one down.

Good Luck.
 
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persistance

When that first coat of Nuvite goes on the hidden imperfections that pop out at you are mind numbing. It's really disheartening actually. With repeated passes though, they do fade. I've found that I have consistantly underestimated the number of passes required to achieve a acceptable finish. It does happen though. I think you have to remember not to let perfection become the enemy of the good though. A less than perfect polish job is still stunning.
 
FYI, I've got a bare-metal Cessna, and that gave me a healthy respect for paint. Polishing is a real pain, and it's not just once, it's periodically afterwards.

Figure about four square feet an hour. That's if everything goes pretty well.

David Paule
 
Nemo,

I took mine to C and it is sitting that way for
about a year. Will come right up to C and then
I will S it.

Try the G6 works great and also try the corn starch.

It takes a while but you will get the hang of it.

Boomer
 
I have found that when you have the black residue and having issues getting rid of it, use a clean buffing pad with no product and polish, you will see it shine up nicely, also I clean any black off with break cleaner, doesn't leave any residue and it doesn't hurt my paint either, what not fun (what Im doing now) is polishing the belly, yuck. As far as your deep scratch, just work on it with G6 and work your way down to S.

Good luck

John
 
After each grade of polish, wipe her down with lantern fuel to clean her for the next grade. After "S", use flannel and cornstarch. It is amazing how well the starch cleans her up. I just lay the flannel on top of the lightly-dusted starch and then place my DA buffer on top and buff at a slow speed.
 
polish

going over the last time with plain baking flour on a towel or buffer will suck the black out. Dennis McCright
 
polish

going over the last time with plain baking flour on a towel or buffer will suck the black out. Dennis McCright
 
Polishing Next To Paint Edges

I'm curious - once the aircraft is polished and then painted, when it comes time to re-polish, how do you work next to the edges of the paint without overlapping onto the paint, or "underlapping" and leaving an unpolished edge next to the paint?
 
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