miyu1975

miyu1975

Well Known Member
Won't it squeeze my AN470AD 4-5 rivets for my VS spar? It worked on the practice project like a charm. I have resorted to cranking the psi all the way up..what else to do???

thx
 
First, 90 PSI--no more no less all the time regardless of the rivet. Second are you using an adjustable set or shims? For the adjustable, back the distance off. The ram needs to extend it's full stroke to develop max power. If the gap is set is too close, it meets resistance before reaching full power so it doesn't have the umph to squeeze the rivet.
 
adjustable..and that could be it... I was closing the gap and should have been going the other way...thx a lot.
 
ok..I think in the mist of my taking the yoke on and off during all this I lost some grease. The adjustable pin (thingy) isn't moving fluidly like it should through the yoke..it gets stuck on the way down. What kind of grease is that..I need more. I did however put in the regular non adjustable pin. The gap is much wider now. It started to squeeze but did not quite make it. Maybe half way. I also got to drill out my first rivet too during all this.
 
it sounds like you may have the adjustable ram set reversed in the body which introduces a bit of skew... ensure that the set is dropped in the body correctly.
 
Hmmm. For your non adjustable set, it should have come with a set of shims to adjust the gap. You can use those if you have them and press on. A lot of guys prefer that method anyway.

Now for the adjustable. Not sure on the type of grease it uses, but the only place that needs it is the cam follower on the bottom of the set (opposite from the die) that rests on the cam. The shaft doesn't really need anything. However it should fit easily through the yoke without binding. On mine, I use a wrench to adjust it as I can't turn it with just my fingers like I can on my hand squeezer. To be able to adjust it, depending on where it is set, you may need to extend it by applying air and keeping the trigger held down until you get it where you want it. This ususally happens when the flats of the shaft retract into the yoke leaving just the die visible.
 
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I just thought of one more thing that might be causing you heartburn. Do you have the spring that rides on the set shaft in-place? When extended it's roughly the same length as the set shaft. When you extend the set it compresses the spring against the bottom of the yoke. When you release the trigger, the cam rotates back out of the way and the spring pushing against the yoke pushes the bottom of the set retracting it back into the body of the squeezer and thus keeping it bottomed against the cam.
 
Make sure the flat face verticle portion of the foot on the bottom of the adjustable set faces inboard when you place it on the roller arm between the bottom of the yoke. If your squeezer is the Chicago 214 type or clone, it's really working to set universal -4 rivets, especially at the longer lengths if you are setting the dies too close, it will just sit and tremble on the shophead side. Try turning the sets back a turn or two. If it sets the rivet, check to make sure you have a fully developed shophead, if not turn it closer a half turn and try again.

Seems if you are too close, the squeezer will not develop full pressure to set the rivet. Also try using the thinnest flat set on the top of the yoke or the shophead side. This will allow the plunger to go past the over center part of compression and develop full power to set the rivet.
 
Well I used the rivet gun and tungsten buck to rivet the 4-6 and 4-7 rivets. Once they had riveted mostly I was able to finish squeezing them with p.sqzr. I was able to use the p.sqzr for the 4-5 rivets, it sqz'ed them but I am not exactly sure if it sqzed enuf. I have the Isham tool set. In it he provided rivet gauges..just not sure which one to use on those rivets.?? the blue one that says -4 on it??
 
Sounds like the blue gauge is the right one if it is marked -4. The color is immaterial--mine is copper to match the 1/8" cleco. To use it place the hole over the shop head. This checks the diameter--the head should barely fit in the hole to not fitting at all (depends on the brand). Regardless, if there's any play then the diameter is too small. Before doing anything, use the notch to check the height. With the gauge perpendicular to the shop head try and slide the gauge over the rivet and through the notch. If it goes through, you over shot the rivet.

If the rivet diameter is too small, but the height is fine, just hit the rivet again. If the diameter is too small and the height is already too low, then you probably need to move to the next size rivet (length). You will run into this. Even though you use the rivet called out in the plans, sometimes it's just too short to properly form an adequate shop head.

Looking at your photos, my only concerns are the rivets on the hinges. Hard to tell from the photo, but they look way overshot.
 
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thx for the advice...I will measure the rivets tonight with the gauge and take more pics... What are the dangers if they are over shot? They sure seemed pretty solid as far as holding those brackets in place.
 
Well, my understanding is a "slightly" over driven rivet is better than a "slightly" under driven one, but strive to get it right on. An occasional rivet out of tolerance is OK IMO. Drilling out rivets is a skill we all learn, but sometimes you're better off just leaving it alone as drilling it can end up causing more harm than good depending on how good your technique is.

Now, having said all that, if those hinge bracket rivets all turn out to be way over driven, I'd redo them if it were me. Once you leave the realm of "slightly", the strength of the rivet becomes questionable. It might be OK as is, but do you really want to take that chance?
 
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