J

jmartinez443

Well Known Member
Well, the subject says it all. I'm starting to mess with my flaring tool but have no reference to what the perfect flare looks like. I know the instructions say crank until you feel a "slight resistance". How's that for vague.

What I'd like to see is how the flare sits on the collar: is it slightly "proud" on the collar or should it sink into it?

Well, hopefully you get the gist of what I'm after. I would like to see some pictures of what you would consider the perfect AN flare.

Thanks in advance
 
I don't have a picture of the flare handy, but it's not so much how it sits in the collar that matters, it's how it sits on the fitting to which it's being attached. My guess is the inclination here is to overflare, and that will cause cracking.

From your description, it sounds you're using the Rolowhatever flaring tool. The one with the gauge that swings away (while you fumble to keep the tubing from moving while you get it clamped down.). I recommend backing off from that gauge a very small amount and then give it a whirl.

The "until you get resistance" is a really lame instruction since, technically, you get resistance the minute the thing begins to contact the tube. From that point, however, you shouldn't need much more to bend (flare) the tube. Take it out and fit it against the fitting... even all around? No gaps? Sits in there nice? That's it. Or cut that off and practice a bit more.
 
Jorge, no pictures either. But, I always had excellent results with the Rolo Flare tool, about $76, ROLO-FLAIR TOOL 37* 212FB (Aircraft Spruce). Assuming you are talking about aluminum tubing - I cut the tubes, deburred the ID just a little, and put it right up to the swing away stop. A very important part is to put some oil on the cone - it makes all the difference in the world. The flared surface should be smooth and shiny on the ID. You will see some witness of the jaw halves on the OD, it never caused a problem for me.

I noticed when I made flares, the B nut threads would just clear the flared tube end. There is sometimes a little sliver of aluminum in the ID, so be sure to put a pointy rag or q-tip in the ID to clean out junk.
 
It's really no big deal: The first several turns you're forming the flare (good), beyond that you're simply squashing what you've just created (not good). You can easily feel the difference between forming and squashing. Also, if you squish things, you'll see two little protrusions on the sides of the flare from material squeezing between the two forming dies.
 
3b3d382ewu2.png

Aaron
 
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Experiment!

I took about four our five inch and a half pieces of aluminum tube and made a bunch of test flares. See what it takes to "over-flare" the tube then back-off a bit. My second practice flare looked worse than my first which proved to me that you have to oil the flaring head for every flare!

Good luck!
 
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AMURRAY said:
3b3d382ewu2.png

Aaron
Click to expand...

This is perfect. Now why couldn't roloflare include this picture instead of their lame description. With this picture I'll be able to do my test pieces (as suggested in another post) and know that I'm in the sweetspot.

With the "stop when you meet resistance" method I was WAY underflaring the tube.

Thanks for all your replies.
 
its just as they say

1. put the tube in
1.5 lube the mandrel
2. bring it up to the height gague or a touch under
3. clamp it down. Not unnecessarily tight. just till it stops then a bump
4. run the die into the tube and flare until it starts to change in effort.very obvious increase in effort.
5. back it out.


if you force it to much or clamp too much it will squish the tubing into the form blocks leaving ridges on the outside portions of the flare.
debur the lip of the flare and install. i always have a slight ridge but have not found any way to avoid it completely.

YMMV:)
 
You'll feel it

If you're using the Parker Rolo, you'll feel the "slight increase in force required." Build away, and don't stress over it.
 
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