chrishalfman

chrishalfman

Active Member
Maybe this isn't a 'new' heat muff, but I can't determine if any of the existing posts are for this or the soup can style heat muffs. I can?t even find it on Van?s site with the part numbers. This thing was in my firewall forward kit I just got the other day and was wondering how well it worked and if you would still recommend a soup in can series with it or if it is pretty good on its own. Or, if you did any other mods with it. There are both cabin heat and carb heat outlets on it.

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Thanks!

Keywords for the next person trying to find this:
EX-00001
EX-00008
OP-54
 
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Wow!

That looks really GOOD. I've never seen a heat muff like that before. It looks to be at least three notches better than the old cheapo standard.
 
Where does this go? Over the two pipes underneath on a cross-over system?

Some pics of the installation would be nice to see...this does look good, compared to the soup can...
 
Flying Scotsman said:
Where does this go? Over the two pipes underneath on a cross-over system?
Click to expand...

Yes, but it will only work on the exhaust system it is sold with.

I have been flying a pre-production prototype version on my airplane for about 2 years and it works very well. Produces a good RPM drop with carb heat applied, and heats the air quite well for cabin heat.
 
heat muff

Looks really good, but also looks kinda heavy. Actually, it looks really heavy.
Is it stainless steel, or aluminum?
 
scsmith said:
Looks really good, but also looks kinda heavy. Actually, it looks really heavy.
Is it stainless steel, or aluminum?
Click to expand...

It is aluminum.

It is heavier than a single Robbins style muff but not to bad.
Performance wise, think of it as replacing 2 1/2 - 3 Robbins style muffs for equivalent performance.
 
Thanks for your reply, Scott! It looks like it should work pretty good-have both pipes to add heat and the baffles probably slow the air down and give it a good tumble as it passes through.

I'm guessing you didn't put anything in it (especially if you use the carb heat). As in-I've heard people mention putting stainless chore boys in the old style to slow down the air and give it more surface area to transfer heat. It's a well-made piece, but then it needs to be 'air tight' to some degree.

Steve-I'd post an install picture, but it'll be a while! Still finishing the canopy. :eek:
 
Chris, any time you feel like taking a break from all the canopy work, feel free to come on over and help with my wings and tanks. :) The beer's cold. I'll even return the favor.
 
chrishalfman said:
Thanks for your reply, Scott! It looks like it should work pretty good-have both pipes to add heat and the baffles probably slow the air down and give it a good tumble as it passes through.

I'm guessing you didn't put anything in it (especially if you use the carb heat). As in-I've heard people mention putting stainless chore boys in the old style to slow down the air and give it more surface area to transfer heat. It's a well-made piece, but then it needs to be 'air tight' to some degree.
Click to expand...

The baffles are designed so that the air flow has to cross from one side of the pair of pipes, to the other side, three times, as it passes through the heat muff.
As a result, nothing else is needed inside.
The way it fits together on the pipes, it is very air tight.
 
Anxious to see a picture of this one. Seems it could solve two problems on the airplane (limited heating and limited carb heat).
 
That looks really slick. That being said, my single-tube Robbinswings heat muff, with the opening oriented between the two crossover tubes, gives a very measurable 50rpm drop during my run-up. A significant improvement over the stovepipe that gave zero visible or audible drop.
 
This new heat muff takes input air off the front left air ramp, Not off the back of the right rear baffle. Will have to plug the aft right vent and order new vent and screen for the front .. Pic to follow.
image-6.jpg



William Bennett
REt USA, CW4
Engine RV7
Flying RV8A
 
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Kitfoxbill said:
This new heat muff takes input air off the front left air ramp, Not off the back of the right rear baffle. Will have to plug the aft right vent and order new vent and screen for the front .. Pic to follow.


William Bennett
REt USA, CW4
Engine RV7
Flying RV8A
Click to expand...

If you mean a new hose flange and screen for the front inlet baffle ramp, I recommend that you do not install the screen at that location.

Window screen has a lot of resistance to airflow. That inlet will be supplying induction air for the engine when carb. heat is selected.
A screen should only be installed on the outlet of the muff feeding to the cabin heater valve.
 
Cabin Heat inlet

Hey guys,

I too have this "new" heat muff. I am currently working on my baffling. I have a vertical fuel injected engine using vans filtered air box. I have no need for carb heat, so the instructions mention to block off the carb heat port.

My question is where do I get the input air for the cabin heat. Some mentioned it goes on the left front air ramp. Does anyone have any pictures, or ideas of how to do this? So far I have found no documentation which describes the installation of this new style heat muff.

Thanks,
Dave
 
One input

There is only one input to the heat muff , that on the left fwd air ramp. There are two exits Fwd is carb heat aft is cabin heat. You block the FWD output. There should be a round disk with three tabs to go over FWD exit pop riviated on.


William
 
I have the same setup Vertical FI O-360, for my RV6, I riveted ont he plug for the carb-heat outlet. I also just finished the baffling and I still have to plug the rear baffle hole in the baffling that was there for the old heat muff style.

I still need to cut the new 2" access hole on my left front baffle and was planning on using the screen at the inlet since I don't have carb-heat, the screen may be ok in this setup on the inlet side.

BTW - I called Vans and asked about putting in a 2nd heat muff and putting them in series since I like to fly in the winter, they indicated they had good feedback on the new design over both pipes so I will give it a try as-is and hope for good cabin heat.
 
Made in house

This exhaust system is an in house made. NOT Vettermin. I had clearance problem and sent it back. Replaced with Vetterman no problem now.



William Bennett
RV8A flying for sale
RV7 finishing.
512-266-2326
 
Carb heat

I will use a robin wings 6" heat . Haven't order yet. It came with 8" cabin heat on 2"" tail pipe.


William
RV8A for sale
RV7 finishing
 
I am building an RV-8 with an IO-320. I to have this new style heat muff. Any pictures of how the LH front inlet duct was installed?
 
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