[Brantel]

After comming to grips with my situation and taking all the info and advice given here and mixing it with my own likes and wishes, printing full size drawings out and sitting in the airplane staring at them for hours, etc. Here is the latest layout for my panel.

I am down to the fine touches now with switch placement and clearance issues etc. The equipment list is fixed at this point cuz thats all the budget will allow and it lets me use my existing handheld in the mix.

Please look over my switch selections and placements and let me know if there is a major reason I should move something....

Panel 1.5" taller than stock, fuseblocks mounted behind panel. This will be a Night VFR airplane with the ability to shoot all practice approaches except precision WAAS to stay IFR current.

"images revised below"

 

[N941WR]

Brian,

That looks very good.

I would make one minor change and that would be to move the cabin heat way over to the right side. You can still reach it and it makes routing the cable easier. (The way the flapper valve is set up, the cable should come horizontally from the right side.)

Also, move the carb heat to where you currently have the cabin heat.

It looks like you are getting close to cutting some aluminum.

 

[kentb]

I agree with Bill....

I would make one minor change and that would be to move the cabin heat way over to the right side. You can still reach it and it makes routing the cable easier. (The way the flapper valve is set up, the cable should come horizontally from the right side.)

Another reason to move it to the right is your pax can adjust it without worry that they might be changing engine controls. Also if thing get rushed for the pilot needing to use the carb heat and instead pull on more cabin heat.

Kent

 

[rv9aviator]

Cabin Heat

I did exactly what you just said about pulling cabin heat instead of carb heat. It was on a 90 deg. day and for a short time I thought I had an engine fire. Didn't make my passenger feel real confident either. Panel looks awesome, BTW

 

[mtnflyer]

the plugs for your headsets may be hard to reach especially
if you install side panels,,,,, other than that ,it looks good

 

[alpinelakespilot2000]

I would reverse the carb heat and throttle position. This allows you to push the carb heat in with your thumb as your pushing throttle to firewall in a go-around. You can probably push both in at the same time where they are at, I just find it requires less contortion the way Cessna and others have it. As others have said, it's a nice looking panel.

 

[az_gila]

Why an Avionics Master...

..as well as a Radios on/off switch?

Sounds like two possible failure points in line...

Isn't one almost a duplicate of the other?

I also see a single EMS-EFIS on/off switch - IIRC Dynon wants the EMS on during engine start.

Have you accidently made a "tree" of on/off switches?

 

[rvmills]

Some ergo and flow thoughts

Brian,

Spent some time looking at your panel concept (very slick...it'll be REALLY nice!). Some thoughts after doing the same kinda staring at pics for a long time with mine. Some echo what others have said.

It shows that you gave thought to phase of flight groupings (and cockpit flows). Plz take these FWIW, as they are my prefs, and may or may not match your wiring or flows:

Master and Mag SW's seem too high...might be a pain to operate them up under the glareshield. I'd consider placing them at the bottom (in line with the throttle/mix...keeps your hands level and comfortable during the before start and start sequences). If there's room, maybe put the three in a horizontal line (master, L mag, R mag). Nice L-R flow for those switches. If not enough room, maybe master above L mag.

Next, consider moving the EFIS/EMS, radio and AP servo SWs up, in line with the light pots. After start, once you have the R mag on, you'd just flow up to turn those all on, and then adjust your lighting. I'm with Gil, in that it seems you could have the EMS come on with the Batt Master, and have the radios and EFIS come on with just one Avionics Master. That way you'd just have the AP Servo and Avionics switches (in line with the Flood and Inst pots). If you want a radio master and EFIS master for more control or troubleshooting (or your electical schematic calls for them), you could have those up there too...in line with the dome and map pots, and probably grouped Radio/Avionics and EFIS/AP).

Concur with the suggestion to swap the carb ht and throttle. That way on a T&G you can flow flaps up, carb ht in, throttle in.

Also concur with the suggestion to move the primer to the throttle section, maybe primer, boost pump, landing lights, strobes (L-R). That gives you a nice position for the primer (hit it with the thumb of your throttle hand if needed for start...that is if you swap the throttle and carb ht) and then the other three are in a nice L-R flow for TO, and still close to your throttle for ease of use.

Agree that moving the Cabin Ht further to the right is a good idea too, as the others said...for deconfliction from the mixture (if a pax pulls it).

Just my thoughts for a combo of groupings based on phase of flight flows and systems. Hope that wasn't overkill!! It's really fun to slueth this all out, though it can drive ya a bit crazy!

No matter what you decide, it sure looks like it'll be very, very sharp!!

Cheers,
Bob

 

[dhall_polo]

rv7 canopy eject

Have you decided not to install the canopy eject? The 496 is in that spot.

How much price diff for 696 vs 496?

 

[Brantel]

Here is the revised version after taking all the comments to heart and thinking about it, thanks for all the input, I have used it to mold my panel!

I moved the cabin heat over, had it over there once but moved it in, I like it better over there out of the way. I think I like the carb heat in the middle better. Yep, ready to waterjet this thing! Almost!

Brian,

That looks very good.

I would make one minor change and that would be to move the cabin heat way over to the right side. You can still reach it and it makes routing the cable easier. (The way the flapper valve is set up, the cable should come horizontally from the right side.)

Also, move the carb heat to where you currently have the cabin heat.

It looks like you are getting close to cutting some aluminum.

I would never prime while actually turning the engine over, I did move it however up to the top left with the other mag/starter controls.

Something you might consider is putting the primer where the spare is by the throttle and mixture. That way you can hit the start switch with the left hand and be able to work the throttle, mixture, and primer all with your right in the same location.

just my .02

Moved it over out of the way...

Another reason to move it to the right is your pax can adjust it without worry that they might be changing engine controls. Also if thing get rushed for the pilot needing to use the carb heat and instead pull on more cabin heat.

Kent

I moved it over and gave the pass something to play with.

I did exactly what you just said about pulling cabin heat instead of carb heat. It was on a 90 deg. day and for a short time I thought I had an engine fire. Didn't make my passenger feel real confident either. Panel looks awesome, BTW

I moved them inboard 1/4" more to allow for something if I add it. If I do, it won't be a thick side panel so it should be OK now.

the plugs for your headsets may be hard to reach especially
if you install side panels,,,,, other than that ,it looks good

I kind of like the way I have them, I fly with my hand wrapped around the throttle and this lets me use my pointer finger for that and my thumb for the trim and flaps.

I would reverse the carb heat and throttle position. This allows you to push the carb heat in with your thumb as your pushing throttle to firewall in a go-around. You can probably push both in at the same time where they are at, I just find it requires less contortion the way Cessna and others have it. As others have said, it's a nice looking panel.

Good question... I removed it! I changed the Efis/Ems switch to be a three position switch.

..as well as a Radios on/off switch?

Sounds like two possible failure points in line...

Isn't one almost a duplicate of the other?

I also see a single EMS-EFIS on/off switch - IIRC Dynon wants the EMS on during engine start.

Have you accidently made a "tree" of on/off switches?

I like the idea of having the starting/mag controls up top out of the way and where I can rest my hand on the glareshield while holding the start switch up. After that, they are not touched much so I think they are good up there out of the way. Also less chance of hitting them with my knee on the way in and out. I want separate switches for the main groups of items so I can load shed if needed.

Brian,

Spent some time looking at your panel concept (very slick...it'll be REALLY nice!). Some thoughts after doing the same kinda staring at pics for a long time with mine. Some echo what others have said.

It shows that you gave thought to phase of flight groupings (and cockpit flows). Plz take these FWIW, as they are my prefs, and may or may not match your wiring or flows:

Master and Mag SW's seem too high...might be a pain to operate them up under the glareshield. I'd consider placing them at the bottom (in line with the throttle/mix...keeps your hands level and comfortable during the before start and start sequences). If there's room, maybe put the three in a horizontal line (master, L mag, R mag). Nice L-R flow for those switches. If not enough room, maybe master above L mag.

Next, consider moving the EFIS/EMS, radio and AP servo SWs up, in line with the light pots. After start, once you have the R mag on, you'd just flow up to turn those all on, and then adjust your lighting. I'm with Gil, in that it seems you could have the EMS come on with the Batt Master, and have the radios and EFIS come on with just one Avionics Master. That way you'd just have the AP Servo and Avionics switches (in line with the Flood and Inst pots). If you want a radio master and EFIS master for more control or troubleshooting (or your electical schematic calls for them), you could have those up there too...in line with the dome and map pots, and probably grouped Radio/Avionics and EFIS/AP).

Concur with the suggestion to swap the carb ht and throttle. That way on a T&G you can flow flaps up, carb ht in, throttle in.

Also concur with the suggestion to move the primer to the throttle section, maybe primer, boost pump, landing lights, strobes (L-R). That gives you a nice position for the primer (hit it with the thumb of your throttle hand if needed for start...that is if you swap the throttle and carb ht) and then the other three are in a nice L-R flow for TO, and still close to your throttle for ease of use.

Agree that moving the Cabin Ht further to the right is a good idea too, as the others said...for deconfliction from the mixture (if a pax pulls it).

Just my thoughts for a combo of groupings based on phase of flight flows and systems. Hope that wasn't overkill!! It's really fun to slueth this all out, though it can drive ya a bit crazy!

No matter what you decide, it sure looks like it'll be very, very sharp!!

Cheers,
Bob

No eject for me, that mess is just a pain, heavy and most likely would not work anyway or kill you in the process so I did not install it. I already have the handheld so that is what I must use to start. The 696 is nice but I have to draw a line somewhere and get this panel started.

Have you decided not to install the canopy eject? The 496 is in that spot.

How much price diff for 696 vs 496?

 

[N941WR]

A couple of small nits.

1. Regarding the carb heat, how big are your hands? Will you be able to reach between the throttle and mixture and pull it out without bumping either the throttle or mixture on a very bumpy day? Just another reason to move it to either the right or left. (Cessna has them on the left where your thumb can push it in for a go around.) They also put the flap switch on the right where you can toggle it with your index finger while holding the throttle and mixture in with the palm of your hand. I have always found it difficult to toggle things with my thumb. This is how mine is set up and it just feels natural to me.

2. Swap the position of the power port and cabin heat. Putting the controls low on the panel is better, as stated before. Besides, it allows you to get to the back of the power port should you need to charge the battery at a distance airport and all they have is a charger with alligator clips. (This keeps you from having to remove the cowling on a cold morning. Ask me how I know.) Also, put that power port on the always hot buss with a 7-1/2 breaker and appropriate sized wire (16 AWG).

3. As mentioned earlier, put the D120 EMS on the main buss so it is powered up during engine start. Dynon recommends this and it works great. You don't have to worry about frying the EMS according to Dynon. (This configuration has worked great in 200+ hours I?ve flown with it set up like this.)

4. Change the EFIS/EMS switch to an avionics master and power up the D100 EFIS, radio, transponder, GPS, intercom, etc with it.

5. Where are you going to put the stereo input jack for your iPod?

6. Circuit breakers? Even if you are going with ATO fuses, some things will need a pullable breaker such as: Autopilot (This is VERY important!), excite field for the alternator, and flaps. Probably a few other items but I can't think of them right now.

It is looking great!

 

[Brantel]

1. I have printed it full size and simulated it allot. I think it will work best for the way I stay on the throttle and use my thumbs and fingers.

2. Will think about this. If I am using the power plug, I don't want a cord hanging down out of the panel that high. Simple to make a dummy cigarette lighter plug to act as an adaptor for charging. It will be fused and connected to the hot buss.

3. I changed to a 3 pos switch so I can have the EMS hot during start.

4. I want separate switches for load sheding if I need to and it will decrease chances of one switch killing all. I will be using multiple poles for the separate items so this even reduces the risk of loosing the entire panel even further.

5. I have not decided where to put some velcro for the MP3 player yet. I will put the jack for it somewere near wherever that turns out to be.

6. I will be going with fuses. I have an ALT field breaker and that is all I want. I have a switch for the AP servos to kill them dead. I don't buy the flap and trim breaker theory due to the fact that by the time you figure out you have a wild trim or flap and find the breaker and pull it, most likely it has already gone full stroke anyway so why bother with it? I can always kill the master if things get crazy.

A couple of small nits.

1. Regarding the carb heat, how big are your hands? Will you be able to reach between the throttle and mixture and pull it out without bumping either the throttle or mixture on a very bumpy day? Just another reason to move it to either the right or left. (Cessna has them on the left where your thumb can push it in for a go around.) They also put the flap switch on the right where you can toggle it with your index finger while holding the throttle and mixture in with the palm of your hand. I have always found it difficult to toggle things with my thumb. This is how mine is set up and it just feels natural to me.

2. Swap the position of the power port and cabin heat. Putting the controls low on the panel is better, as stated before. Besides, it allows you to get to the back of the power port should you need to charge the battery at a distance airport and all they have is a charger with alligator clips. (This keeps you from having to remove the cowling on a cold morning. Ask me how I know.) Also, put that power port on the always hot buss with a 7-1/2 breaker and appropriate sized wire (16 AWG).

3. As mentioned earlier, put the D120 EMS on the main buss so it is powered up during engine start. Dynon recommends this and it works great. You don't have to worry about frying the EMS according to Dynon. (This configuration has worked great in 200+ hours I?ve flown with it set up like this.)

4. Change the EFIS/EMS switch to an avionics master and power up the D100 EFIS, radio, transponder, GPS, intercom, etc with it.

5. Where are you going to put the stereo input jack for your iPod?

6. Circuit breakers? Even if you are going with ATO fuses, some things will need a pullable breaker such as: Autopilot (This is VERY important!), excite field for the alternator, and flaps. Probably a few other items but I can't think of them right now.

It is looking great!