AirbusPilot

Well Known Member
Hi folks,

I am ready to paint the interior, do you have any tips to make it beautifull?. Also what do you recomend to paint firewall interior?, is there any special treatment to SS?

Happy Building and Flying

 
Here is mine

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Rustoleum Professional Gloss Rattle Can

I used Rustoleum Professional gloss in rattle cans.

I tried light gray and dark gray and ended up using them both for contrast - dark for the fixed structure and light for the removable covers, seat backs and panel.

It seems tough plus I think it looks good and goes on very easily - very uniform coverage for a rattle can, nice gloss, seems to be run resistant, minimal if any waste and no mixing or clean up - shake and spray and then just toss the empty can. I think 2 cans of dark and 2 of light did the whole RV6 interior for less than $20.

I wouldn't bother painting the firewall - it is hard to do, probably won't stick in the long run, adds weight, doesn't add any more corrosoion protection and you won't see it any way - especially if you end up addinig sound/heat insulation to the firewall.

Very nice workmanship by the way - is the yellow Dupont Variprime?

Jim Sharkey
RV6 - Finishing up!
 
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I used the white epoxy primer from Poly Fiber alone. Its desiged to allow glues to adhere if interior fabric is applied. The color almost matches the color of the powder coated Van's parts. Wears well too.
Al
 
I just finished painting the interior of my -8 and felt about 95% was really easy, the last 5% was a huge pain. Don't know if the pain was due to bad technique, or specific issues with the paint I chose.

I cleaned everything with MEK, then primed with Duplicolor self etching paint. That went really well--you've already primed so this won't be helpful for you, but maybe for somebody else. The cans have new nozzles that I thought were real easy to use and get an even and smooth coat. I then painted with Krylon Indoor/Outdoor glossy paint (Ivy Leaf color).

I started on the removable panels and had good results. My plane isn't going to win awards, but I was very happy with the results. I then moved on to the tub--I must not have put it on as thin as Jim because I thought 4 cans should do it but I didn't have enough to finish the right side. What I did paint looks good. The can says you can reapply within 1 hour or after 24, so I waited 48 hours to paint the other side and finish the front floor. That's where the trouble started.

Don't know why, but where ever new paint touched old paint, it ate through. I knew to wet sand the existing paint to dull it up but it didn't matter--it was like putting MEK on paint. The area most affected was the right gear tower, and the front floor. So I then had to mask off the areas with good paint so I could strip down those areas and start over.

Even after masking off the good paint areas, there was a little bleed through with the MEK and new coat of paint, so on some of the fringe areas I still have signs of problems, but at this point I'm done stripping paint and figure these areas are not very visible and/or will be covered by something else.

Not sure what you or anyone else can take from this. Overall I like the way the Krylon went on--only thing I would have done differently is ensured I had way more paint than I thought I needed so I could do everything in one shot. As with most things, trying to fix one problem created 2 more. Thank goodness I don't get out to the shop until after the kids are in bed, because even with a respirator on, my expletives could probably be heard around the neighborhood. In the end, it's almost done (I'm painting the seat backs, and all the powder coated bars black) and I'm happy with it but I know it would go a lot better if I were doing another one right now.

A couple of pictures. First one is the overall look--it's not as yellow in person as it looks in the picture. Second picture is what i was going for--it's pretty close to this color in better light. Third picture is at the front of the spar on the floor--one area where new paint bubbled old paint and will not be seen so I didn't want to strip it for a second time.

Good luck.

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With better lighting, the color looks very close to this (what I was going for)

New paint eats existing paint:mad:
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Krylon Fusion

I've been using Krylon Fusion 2439 "Satin Pewter Gray". This comes in rattle cans with a nozzle that's adjustable for fan spray pattern orientation. It's easy to apply nicely, and adheres well to every type of surface I've tried so far (bare clean aluminum, alodined aluminum, Van's QB wash primer, my AKZO primer, Van's powder coat...).

Before I selected this one, I experimented with quite a few different paints of the rattle can variety, and this one produced the best results hands down. Also, this was the only one I found that had a light gray color available in a non-glossy finish. I wanted to avoid glossy surfaces to minimize glare and reflections on the canopy.

I did not paint the firewall. Didn't see any good reason to.
 
JETflex

Used Sherwin Williams JetFlex which is an aircraft interior finish. Available in satin or flat finishes and water base or solvent. Water base has no odor. It is a polyurethane so should hold up well. Literature says "excellent hardness and solvent/chemical resistance." I like the way it looks and the way it covered. Worth looking into.

Ken
 
Prime

Joe, I tried a test over Van's wash primer and was concerned about adhesion so I used some urethane primer I already had. I would suggest a light prime with epoxy or urethane. I also tried just treating the aluminum with alodine and painting over it. I got a scratch to the metal but that was next day. After a week or so I tried another scratch test and the paint held. Looks like the water base takes a little longer to cure. It is nice and hard now.

I just don't think you can go wrong with a light coat of epoxy or urethane primer.

Ken
 
Joe, I tried a test over Van's wash primer and was concerned about adhesion so I used some urethane primer I already had. I would suggest a light prime with epoxy or urethane. I also tried just treating the aluminum with alodine and painting over it. I got a scratch to the metal but that was next day. After a week or so I tried another scratch test and the paint held. Looks like the water base takes a little longer to cure. It is nice and hard now.

I just don't think you can go wrong with a light coat of epoxy or urethane primer.

Ken

I wonder if it will work well on top of DuPont Variprime primer. I have been considering Jetflex interior satin.
 
Mike, I did try a test over variprime because that is what I used on most of my interior parts and it looked good. My concern is the same for variprime and wash prime and that is "is the surface clean?" There is a lot of handling and possible contamination on some of those surfaces. Can't use a strong solvent on those primers. Try experimenting with a cleaner that won't dissolve your primer but still clean the surface and I am sure the JetFlex will work fine.

Ken
 
Don't know why, but where ever new paint touched old paint, it ate through. I knew to wet sand the existing paint to dull it up but it didn't matter--it was like putting MEK on paint. The area most affected was the right gear tower, and the front floor. So I then had to mask off the areas with good paint so I could strip down those areas and start over.
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With better lighting, the color looks very close to this (what I was going for)

New paint eats existing paint:mad:
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I've seen this before...it looks like the worst case of orange peel you've ever seen? I had this happen while painting a large, high-powered rocket. Frustrated me no end. Turns out, it was caused by the solvents in the top coat getting underneath the first layer via the scratches and scuffs from the sanding (that wet sanding you did to dull the first layer).

One of the rocketry forums had a table of painting problems...here's the entry for this problem:

Wrinkling/ Lifting Looks like the surface of an orange, only lots worse. This is time for panic, go ahead and do so.
"When in trouble or in doubt, run in circles, scream and shout."

Didn't follow recoat window; Incompatible paints; Unclean surface, sanding of primer cut too deeply into the surface allowing finish coat solvents under primer film.

Sand to bare surface and repaint following label directions.
You can fill the wrinkles with Elmers Finishing Wood Filler, sand, install a barrier coat, prime and repaint.

Hope this helps, or maybe prevents the same problem for someone else...
 
Finally found it. This is a quote from an email I recv'd from a very reputable local paint shop. :eek:

"Sherwin Williams also has a interior paint called Jet Flex which I highly recommend. It is a water base paint which you can apply over bare aluminum, most of your interior shops use it."


Just thought I'd throw this out there. I still can't decide. Those rattle cans sure do make things easy, and every RV I've seen with Krylon or Rustoleum looks great.

Joe
 
Steve, thanks for the tips--it is extremely frustrating and I think you're right because it was usually worst at the edges where it could get beneath a previous layer. One of the reasons I went with rattle can paint was because everyone said it was easy to touch up if ever scratched/blemished. Now I'm freaked out to even think about doing that for fear that any attempt at touching something up will only make it worse.
 
Jetflex

I used the Jetflex, mixed to a very light gray. Shot it over Mason primer wash. It was very easy to paint, came out very good, has a satin finish. I think it does take a few weeks to cure to maximum hardness. Really looks good.
 
Look nice!

What did you do to stick the paint to SS firewall????

Krylon Plastic Fusion ...(this stuff will stick to grease)...no prep work other than wiping down area with a green scotchbrite pad dipped in 91% alcohol. then I wiped everything with cloth rags....The key to a good finish is letting it dry for a week. I used two very light coats about 45 minutes apart.

Don't be fooled though, most of the interior is powered coated with Cardinal power coating material, as well as the gear legs and engine mount.

Here is the link for those who must know everything. Yes it works excellent on SS:p

http://krylon.com/products/fusion_for_plastic/
 
Used Sherwin Williams JetFlex which is an aircraft interior finish. Available in satin or flat finishes and water base or solvent. Water base has no odor. It is a polyurethane so should hold up well. Literature says "excellent hardness and solvent/chemical resistance." I like the way it looks and the way it covered. Worth looking into.

Ken
So, did you use water base?
 
I agree with Jim- don't paint the firewall. Put some insulation there, you'll be glad you did. I attached mine with 3M #90 spray adhesive, no problems so far (~2 years and 200 hrs).
 
I used water base. Also I scuffed the roll bar powder coat and applied the JetFlex and that worked fine also.

Ken
 
Also, if you use water base, flush out your gun as soon as you finish spraying. Then clean it again with solvent. The water base dries quickly in the gun and of course water does clean it after it dries.

Ken
 
I just paint the thing, I bought a poluretant from the same brand than primer and everything went ok, so I am very happy:D