[Junglepilot]

I am using the Rustoleum Pro gray primer on the parts in the cabin as I build. However I may paint the passenger, pilot and forward cabin areas with a tougher paint eventually before I close it up.

Has anyone had experience painting over the Rustoleum Pro primer products with better grade/tougher paints (two part for example) later in their build process? Bubbling or weird textures emerge?

I've painted several planes before (Cessna 185/172/206) with full Imron system (primer & topcoat), but never mixed primers like a cheaper Rustoleum with a better paint.

I'm still a month or so away form that stage, but just wondering what anyone else's experience has been.

 

[N208ET]

I thought the same thing

I however used duplicolor self etching primer for everything on the interior, so when that was done I wasn't sure about the compatability of using good paint over that, so I just bought some duplicolor paint and went to town on my interior. I like how it came out, it was easy, and the best part is, the interior is going to get scratched anyway, now all I have to do is grab a rattle can and make it new again. Sorry I can't help with the original question.

Randy

 

[dedgemon]

Seal it

Sandy,
If the rustoleum is in good shape, then you should be able to scuff sand it and shoot a sealer over it prior to painting with a urethane etc... An epoxy primer or a urethane sealer should be fine.

If you've got some of that rustoleum primer laying about, try shooting a test sample and working on that first (just to be safe!).

 

[Junglepilot]

Testing new combo

I'm in agreement with a lot of folks that cockpits get scuffed and scratched whether you use two part epoxy (ala Imron) or cheaper paint. I've done the Imron thing and know.

That said, I was at the Aviation Paint department at Home Depot and will try to cover some the Rustoleum Pro Primer with their Rust. Pro gray topcoat.

I've been impressed frankly with the RP Primer thus far anyway. Pretty darn tough stuff, assuming you clean (409) and Scotchbrite the surface first.

Thanks for the input though.

(Of course the outside will be done only in two part $$ paint.)

 

[Scott Hersha]

I'm in agreement with others that making it 'repairable' (ie. rattle can compliant), may be an important consideration. If you use a 'high quality' finish paint over rattle can primer, you get rattle can results for 'high quality' prices. I've used both processes on my two airplanes that I've built. The catylized two part paint (PPG Aero), didn't hold up very much better after repeated banging/bumping than the rattle can stuff (Home Depot Rustoleum) that is in my current RV-8. Rattle can Hammered or Titanium, like I used can be painted over with minimal preparation, and the repair is hard to see after it dries. No so with catylized eurethane paints. With the PPG, overspray is always evident unless you use base coat/clear coat, even if you try shooting a little reducer afterward to make it sort of 'melt in' to kill the edges. Personally, I sand down the edges of a scratch and spray the rattle can Titanium and you can't see where I painted or where the scratch/chip used to be. Make sure you cover up areas you don't want paint on.

Scott