[prkaye]

Still years away from painting, but always thinking/planning ahead. My paint scheme ( www.c-func.com/paint ) has most of the airplane in a shiney metallic gold colour. I've been told that painting such metallic finishes is very difficult to make them look good. This is one reason why I may save my pennies and have it done professionally. But I will still consider doing it myself... do any of you guys have any knowledge/experience with painting metallic colours such as this? Is it really difficult to get a smooth good finish? Keep in mind I've never done any aircraft or automotive painting at all.

 

[RV7Guy]

Get Guidance

It is not that difficult but getting some professional guidance, having a place to paint and the proper equipment make all of the difference.

I was fortunate to have all of the above. I used four colors, two of which were metallics. I used a base coat and clear coat system. It is much harder with single stage because you only get one shot at getting it correct.

Don't worry about the thought that the metallics causing potential interference issues with radios. According to my paint guy, he said most metallics paints use non metallic particles to get the affect.

You will need to check on the specific paint you are using. Even still I believe the chance of issues would be minimal.

 

[Captain Avgas]

I've been told that painting such metallic finishes is very difficult to make them look good.

Phil, you're pondering over whether to paint your plane yourself or not. I reckon this is a very easy question to answer. If you reckon you have enough skills to paint your car...paint your plane. If not.....get a professional.

If you want to save money see if can make arrangement to do as much of the labour intensive prep work as you can.

I'm amazed at the number of builders who would never dream of repainting their car.....but are quite happy to botch up their plane.

Personally I've never seen a top notch paint job done on a plane by a first up painter. I'm SURE they must be out there....but I'VE never seen one.

 

[w1curtis]

Phil, you're pondering over whether to paint your plane yourself or not. I reckon this is a very easy question to answer. If you reckon you have enough skills to paint your car...paint your plane. If not.....get a professional.

If you want to save money see if can make arrangement to do as much of the labour intensive prep work as you can.

I'm amazed at the number of builders who would never dream of repainting their car.....but are quite happy to botch up their plane.

Personally I've never seen a top notch paint job done on a plane by a first up painter. I'm SURE they must be out there....but I'VE never seen one.

Hmm, I find this logic a bit ah, illogical. Most of the folks on this forum wouldn't BUILD a car either. What is the point of this comparison?

All the skills that one learns when building an airplane, why should painting be any less daunting? While it is likely that very few first time builders will build perfect planes, does this mean that they should not attempt it? That is your implication.

You should get out more. I've see builders do at least a good a job as professional shops. What are you building and will the lack of perfection deter you from building and just purchase a professional built aircraft?

Many builders have varying degrees of skills and patients and what one builder loves or wants to do, another may choose to outsource and have someone else do. Some will build up and engine while other would prefer to buy one ready to bolt on. Other will build their panels from the ground up while, another would outsource to one of the many panel builders. Some will choose to sticth their interior, while others will drop everything at the upholstry shop and pick up the completed parts. Why do you think aircraft painting should be the exclusive domain of professional?

 

[L.Adamson]

Phil, you're pondering over whether to paint your plane yourself or not. I reckon this is a very easy question to answer. If you reckon you have enough skills to paint your car...paint your plane. If not.....get a professional.

If you want to save money see if can make arrangement to do as much of the labour intensive prep work as you can.

I'm amazed at the number of builders who would never dream of repainting their car.....but are quite happy to botch up their plane.

Personally I've never seen a top notch paint job done on a plane by a first up painter. I'm SURE they must be out there....but I'VE never seen one.

Not sure about that, as I'm actually impressing myself with my first time paint job. Lot's of research and time, but it's looking good!

BTW-- no decals or vinyl masks. All laid out & taped by hand.

[img=http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/9392/dsc04899pk0.th.jpg]

 

[lostpilot28]

Not sure about that, as I'm actually impressing myself with my first time paint job. Lot's of research and time, but it's looking good!

BTW-- no decals or vinyl masks. All laid out & taped by hand.

[img=http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/9392/dsc04899pk0.th.jpg]

Nice work! I am going to paint my RV-7A myself also...I've done very little research because I'm still building, but I've heard that some types & products are much more forgiving than others (meaning they would be great for someone who is just learning to paint). Can you tell me what you're using?

 

[Brian Vickers]

Metalics

Phil,
I like to spray paint and have refinished three cars and an aluminum boat (Lund) using metalics. I have very good equipment but skill is a bigger part of shooting metallics. Single stage is not difficult to lay flat but it is hard to keep from looking zebra striped. The back and forth overlapping patterns are difficult without considerable practice. You can easily get areas where the paint pools inconsistently at then in the right light you can see your back and forth pattern (zebra). Base coat / clear coat is easier for sure. It is impossible to touch up if you ding it.

Before I shoot metallics, I go to an auto body shop and acquire their left over metallic paint they don't want. Usually small quantities but better than paying for it. This is a great way to work on your technique and dial in your equipment. Thin it down slightly to replicate the catalyzed/reduced paint consistency. Use a hard, non porous surface for the practice material. Cardboard and paper is too absorbent. White Melamine is ideal.

I am going to paint my own plane in a few months myself. No metallics for me. I don't want a zebra in the hanger.

Cheers,

Brian Vickers, RV4 finishing

 

[w1curtis]

Not sure about that, as I'm actually impressing myself with my first time paint job. Lot's of research and time, but it's looking good!

BTW-- no decals or vinyl masks. All laid out & taped by hand.

That looks pretty impressive to me too. What paint system are you using and what is the paint code for that yellow and gray?

 

[Allen Barrett]

Like Brian, I have had my share of painting autos. A trick used by most single stage painters is to start the second coat a pass or two foward of the first coat. It helps in overlappig your coats and eliminates the stripes.

Allen

 

[L.Adamson]

That looks pretty impressive to me too. What paint system are you using and what is the paint code for that yellow and gray?

For you, and the other person's reply, that wanted to know.

It's Sherwin Williams Genesis 3.5. A high end fleet vehicle paint, that's similar to S/W Jet Glow ( as I've been told). It's single stage, and the yellow color is a match to a Nissan X-Terra, by placing the color card up to the actual vehicle, because the listed color was a shade too light.

The gray, which I don't remember the numbers is just a light gray.

FWIW, this paint was still around $1400.00 for a gallon of yellow, two gallons of gray, and a quart of black & white, plus the hardener; and gallon of primer/hardener. And then throw in a few more hundred dollars for lot's of 3M green tape, 3M blue flexible striping tape ( like vinyl electrical tape), and some pin strip tape, plus painting paper & plastic covering.

Colors such as red & yellow, are much more expensive than the gray.

It looks like I'll have about a gallon of gray left over, and I initially have wasted a bit of paint, because I didn't know how much to mix in the first place. There is only a few hours shelf life, after the hardener is mixed, at best.

The gray easily coats in two coats, while the yellow can range from four to six. It's not a thick build up of paint, but just less pigment; and doesn't hide other colors well. Use the white primer, and spray yellow first while bleeding it down six inches or so into the gray area. The first coat of gray, actually totally covered the yellow.

Once this brand of paint is dry, it's flexible and stands up to a long list of solvents, fuels, etc. One of it's recommended uses for fleet vehicles, is for graffiti, as it's easily wiped off, without paint damage.

I too, started with some streaking on the vertical & horizontal stab, until I got the hang of it. Watching an old EAA aircraft painting video really helped, including laying out the stars & stripes.

With the initial colors of yellow and gray in mind (as I didn't want to shoot metallic silver), and a want of invasion stripes, even if it's a nose wheel version, but I'm still a die hard P-51 fan

......... some thought the look might be a bit dull. I had a downloaded screenshot of a Harmon Rocket, or F1, that's similar to this color scheme. By transposing the yellow to the Rocket/F1's blue color, I knew that the yellow would look interesting! And now those, who thought it might like dull, keep bringing over others to see it!

All surfaces, except underneath the plane are done with an HVLP, since I'm just using gravity feed.

And BTW, this stuff is quite toxic, and a fresh air setup works the best.

L.Adamson RV6A

 

[Captain Avgas]

All the skills that one learns when building an airplane, why should painting be any less daunting? While it is likely that very few first time builders will build perfect planes, does this mean that they should not attempt it? That is your implication.

William, I'm not certain that it makes that much sense to invest $150k in your RV10 and then stuff the paint job by learning to be a painter on your plane. After all...it's only the first thing EVERYONE will notice. But no-one is stopping you.

And I'm not saying that you you can't do it...or that anybody can't do it. Or that they SHOULDN'T do it. What I'm saying is that painting is an acquired skill and the guys who are really good at it spend YEARS acquiring their technique. YOU are unlikely to match their expertise on your first attempt on a very difficult surface. THAT'S what I'm saying.

It is wise for an inexperienced backyard aircraft builder to know his limitations. Sometimes builders get so many praises and pats on the back from awestruck family and friends that they begin to believe in the myth of their extraordinary skills.

I know a builder who had never changed the oil in his car but who assembled his own lycoming from parts, unassisted and using nothing but a Lycoming manual. Personally I don't think that's sensible (in fact after assisting in the strip down of two Lycomings now and realising the pitfalls...I'm CERTAIN that it is not sensible).

I know of another builder who had never welded anything in his life and chose to learn first-up on a structural element of his aircraft (and he was building an experimental helicopter!!!!). I would not recommend that either. Often the desire to save a small amount of money overpowers common sense.

At least if you paint your own project it will not fall out of the sky......unfortunately, if you have no previous painting experience, it'll probably look like it's about to.

 

[szicree]

At least if you paint your own project it will not fall out of the sky......unfortunately, if you have no previous painting experience, it'll probably look like it's about to.

Baloney. The main difference between the pro and the amateur painter is that the pro can do the job much more efficiently. As far as actual spray technique goes, ya get some cheap paint and an old fender and practice a bit. When you feel ready, you spray and do the best you can. After you're done you step back and see how bad you feel about the runs, bugs and orange peel. If it bothers you, you sand and buff. For many of us it has absolutely nothing to do with saving a few bucks, but rather is about the satisfaction of taking on new challenges in spite of all those who say it can't be done.

 

[frankh]

Amen...Baloney!

I have had NOBODY critisise my paint job, sure its simple in design but it has no orange peel and no runs and looks every bit as good as my car when new.

It takes a lot longer for a newbie to get the results but there is no reason to expect a second rate job from an amateur.

If mine was second rate I would have stripped it and done it again!

In fact I see a lot of professional jobs on spam cans that were done to a price...They look a lot worse!

Frank 7a, home painted and proud of it!

 

[Captain Avgas]

I have had NOBODY critisise my paint job

Maybe you have very polite friends.

 

[MrNomad]

The key to avoiding tiger stripes.....

Painting base coat / clear coat is often thought to be simpler than single stage. Concerning metallics, that's particularly true.

Here's the secret.... lay down three coats of metallic base alike any other paint job. Overlap and paint the 3 coats in different directions.

Once you're certain you have color hold out, open the fan to your gun, increase the volume, keep the gun 12 inches away from the fender (wing) and spray a fog coat. Moving the gun rapidly across the panel with a lot of volume, you will equalize the amount of metallic on the panel. It will change in appearance but it will be even.

Like all coats before it, let the fog coat dry according to vendor specs (usually 10 minutes or more). Always allow the solvents to rise out of the paint. Then, make sure you tack cloth the surface else the buildup will ruin the clear to follow. Don't use tack cloth from Harbor Freight.

No tiger stripes!