J

JBPILOT

Well Known Member
I have not talked about this due to business nature, but I feel it may save someone a big problem.

Ref : http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=75164

The issues discussed above are a real problem for someone that does not have a perfect painting shop, or humidity & temperature controls. ( YES, I KNOW FROM EXPERIENCE ) ! A pop riveted surface is hard to sand uniformly to correct problems. You will cut thru anything on the rivet head before you get everything smooth.

I would NOT use this paint without prior expereince, or LOTS of practice. It is very different from most spray painting applications. ( I have painted about 150 cars )

Of all the issues we early builders had, this mistake was avoidable on my part. I felt I was doing the correct thing environmentally, but in the long run, will create more of a mess having to re-do it. I do plan to re-paint the plane at some point. I think about it TOO often.

John Bender
 
Good thread John. The Stewart paint system is not for a beginner for sure. It sounds good, but in application it is very touchy to work with. Since most airplanes being painted by the builder the "facilities" and atmospheric controls are usually not very good.
 
Leave Waterborne Paints to the Pro's

I have been involved in automotive painting for 35 years and have painted a number of aircraft. Our shop has recently switched to PPG Envirobase waterborne paint system. I think it is the best waterborne system currently on the market, however I would not recommend painting any aircraft with this or any other system unless you are trained, have the proper equipment, and optimum conditions. In fact I have chosen to use a solvent based system on my 12. I feel it is more suitable for the application.

I am not familiar with the Stewart System so I have no opinion on their product. I am sure it is a fine paint system, however the things I consistently see are the same pitfalls over and over. You can not paint anything larger than a lunch box with a compressor from Lowes, a spraygun from Harbor Freight, and your wife's fan from the bedroom for exhausting overspray.

All spray painting (especially large airplanes) require huge amounts of air with the proper dryers. When your pressure drops to 10lbs at the gun after you sprayed the first panel you are dead in the water. When the cheap gun you have purchased does not atomize properly( waterborne paint require special fluid nozzles and air caps) you have poor results. When your garage or hanger is not clean and exhausting air properly you have more problems.

Painting your own airplane is quite doable, but you must do your homework and invest in the proper equipment for the paint system you are using. It is far easier to do it right the first time than try to repair the mess.

I have chosen PPG solvent based DBC system with PPG Polyurethane clear for my 12. Choose what will work best for you, get some experienced advise, and for goodness sake borrow or buy a good 185cfm compressor with a drying system.
Good Luck and Happy Painting
D&M Dan
 
Good points Dan - -

The biggest issues are temp and humidity. Factory told me 75 to 85 degrees ( 85 being better ), and 50% or lower humidity. In the midwest, that is difficult to control. They told me my biggest problem was - "you have painted cars, and this is different". No kidding. You need a near perfect environment, and much practice. I only posted to avoid having someone who felt they could paint, switch to their paint. I think it would be fair to say nearly no pro plane painting shops use this type paint.

John Bender
 
What problems are you having?

Your right John, but what are the issues you are having? Did I miss a post about your paint?
 
Hey Dan - -

My painting was done back in 2009. Midwest weather is the main problem. In the winter ( 10F as example ), it is hard to keep air temps at 80 - 85 going thru a paint booth of any kind. In the summer, the humidity is hard to get reduced. Leaves few good weather days to use water based paint. I didn't do enough homework before I ordered the paint. I guess I seen the good post, and not enough people were pointing out the problem areas. Stripping is next. It is just not for everyone. Automotive and aviation paints can be 'adjusted' for temps and conditions MUCH more easily.

John Bender
 
Stripper

Hey John,
We have been using a less caustic chemical stripper out of Texas. You spray it on with a schutz gun or brush on , wrap the area with a sheet of plastic. Let sit for a couple days and hose off. Way less sanding and chance of topping rivets. PM me if you would like the brand name.
Don't Worry , You will get through it.
 
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