bret

bret

Well Known Member
So I jumped in and thought I would try my hand at painting, on a budget here, until I started buying paint stuff, wow this is not cheap, too late now. got to paint it all now.
bret496
 
Yep, I did my interior with Dupont Chroma One

Not as easy as we might think. Next plane I'll just use aerosol cans:). It is tough stuff and mine even has different textures that I did not even plan on:eek:.
 
it is hard work...but your paint job looks great. keep going. what are you using to vent your paint booth.?
 
bret said:
Hum.. OK still haven't figured out this pic thing.
Click to expand...

open your above link to your photobucket page. on the right side, there are 4 options to share this photo. hover your cursor over the one next to "IMG code" now click, it will flash "copied" then paste this link into your post.

like this
DSC01792.jpg
 
Nice

If I thought I could do that kind of work I wouldnt hesitate. Keep up the good work.
Ryan
 
Venting with 3 20" filtered fans out, 1 filtered swirl cage pressure in and full face 3M respirator, paint suit, nitrel gloves, and yes I know about ISO cyanide, bad bad stuff, already changed out the cartridges, should have bought a fresh air hood. took a month to do this, made lots of mistakes and re blocking - learning sessions.
 
Looks very nice. Keep at it!
Couple of comments:
  • wear a head hood (maybe you do and just were posing for the pic)
  • wear gloves
  • cut some old nylon socks for gauntlets, that clear is sticky!
  • a forced air full-face mask is really nice. Borrow one if you can.
  • the booth is a little small. Keep well clear of the walls as you will kick up dust when the gun sweeps near a wall. It gets worse as you progress and the walls get more paint on them.
  • be very careful dragging the hose around for the same reason. And wipe it down before each session.
  • color sanding and a good buffer are your friends!
  • when you get discouraged, go look at the paint on a new car...you will feel much better!
 
fl-mike said:
Looks very nice. Keep at it!
Couple of comments:
  • wear a head hood (maybe you do and just were posing for the pic)
  • wear gloves
  • cut some old nylon socks for gauntlets, that clear is sticky!
  • a forced air full-face mask is really nice. Borrow one if you can.
  • the booth is a little small. Keep well clear of the walls as you will kick up dust when the gun sweeps near a wall. It gets worse as you progress and the walls get more paint on them.
  • be very careful dragging the hose around for the same reason. And wipe it down before each session.
  • color sanding and a good buffer are your friends!
  • when you get discouraged, go look at the paint on a new car...you will feel much better!
Click to expand...

O good a painter, I am not, so here is a question, I am using Chromabase spectramaster RM046 (metallic) can you color sand this before clear, I tried a small smudge but it messed up the metallic, and how long before you can sand and buff the clear. there are flaws but they are not visible from 10 feet, there are a lot of do overs in that booth (learning curve) I might reline it. thanks
 
Wayne Gillispie said:
Not as easy as we might think. Next plane I'll just use aerosol cans:). It is tough stuff and mine even has different textures that I did not even plan on:eek:.
Click to expand...

Yes me too, wet floor, filtered air in, degrease, tack cloth, and suit and still have things in the paint? what the, where the *^&%%^$
 
I am no expert, but have spoken to a few....I don't believe you can wet sand metallic paints, because it will do exactly what it did when you tried. On metallics you'll have to shoot it perfectly the first time. again, I am no expert.
 
Don't sand the basecoat.
The nice thing about base is that it is easy to remove if you really bugger it up. Some lacquer thinner will take it off. To all those who fear painting, base is really easy to shoot. The clear is where most problems occur.
Basecoat do's and don'ts: Shoot for coverage, don't flood it. It will look crappy and dull, but the clear fixes that. Never sand basecoat. Shoot a drop coat for metallics to even it out and avoid tiger stripes.
Clear: The tech sheet should tell you when you can sand/buff. Most are pretty fast so shops can get them out the door. I waited a few days to be safe. Be REAL carefull of edges and proud rivets. Keep the pad tilted and running off the edges. (another "oh ****!" lesson!)

autobody101.com is a good place for general info.

Practice, practice, practice...but not on your plane. Junkyard trunk lids and hoods are good practice fodder, but you might have to sand down crappy factory orange peel first!
 
fl-mike said:
Don't sand the basecoat.
The nice thing about base is that it is easy to remove if you really bugger it up. Some lacquer thinner will take it off. To all those who fear painting, base is really easy to shoot. The clear is where most problems occur.
Basecoat do's and don'ts: Shoot for coverage, don't flood it. It will look crappy and dull, but the clear fixes that. Never sand basecoat. Shoot a drop coat for metallics to even it out and avoid tiger stripes.
Clear: The tech sheet should tell you when you can sand/buff. Most are pretty fast so shops can get them out the door. I waited a few days to be safe. Be REAL carefull of edges and proud rivets. Keep the pad tilted and running off the edges. (another "oh ****!" lesson!)

autobody101.com is a good place for general info.

Practice, practice, practice...but not on your plane. Junkyard trunk lids and hoods are good practice fodder, but you might have to sand down crappy factory orange peel first!
Click to expand...

My first mistake: I had epoxy primer, primer sealer, black base, intercoat clear, and when I shot the purple it ran wierd like a grease slick, I think I went too heavy? take 3 (nevermind about take 2) I shot epoxy primer, base, and 50% light coat then a full color coat. is this right or should just 1 medium coat of base be enough, and is 40 PSI ok (HVLP 1.4) and why dose clear go into this wierd whare wolf fog thing?
 
Painting

Bret, Most base coats you can put on fairly dry, in other words you don't have to spray it on heavy looking for a nice wet glossy sheen. You can apply several light coats and build up an even layer. Metals or Pearls like to settle in thicker areas and will develop a splotchy look if you apply it to heavy and the coat "orange peels", or develops tiny runs. Several light to med. applications to build the color works best, then clear. many people are in a hurry to color sand and buff out their planes. I advise waiting 6 months or more even, let all the paint cure, shrink to its thing. Same with the Fiberglass resins. Even after you run the plane and heat up the cowl several times you will start to see the weave of the cloth showing through the paint. Let it all cure up, shrink up, then come back and color sand and buff to a nice finish. If you rush it, it will show up down the road and you will have to do it again. This time you may not have enough clear left to avoid sanding through?

Chris
 
Hey thanks 208, after a week I moved them to the living room and notice that I can still slightly smell the paint-clear, it is dry to the touch but it seams like it wants to stick to the wall that it is leaning up against, should I hang these pieces? and how long till it is curred enough. Thinking ahead about when the wings will sit in the wing stand?
 
Fans

Bret, whose fans are you using? Got any pictures of the paint booth? Talk to me about the Cynaid poisioning. I have been using the 3m disposable masks and have built a small booth in my basement. I don't take the mask off until I leave the room but I have not been covering all of my skin and head because I have been painting just small parts and the auto body guys said that was fine. I am spraying a Sherwin williams 3 part epoxy and am using their single stage color. What do you think, if you can smell the stuff in the house it ain't good is my thought.
 
Hey Wizzard how are you, if you are spraying base - clear with Iso Cyanide, it can KILL YOU! I forget the word for it, but after awhile you can not smell it, kinda like living on a ranch, after awhile you can not smell the cow manure. but it is still going in and collecting in your kidneys and other organs. I am using a 3M full face mask with organic vapor filters, and pre filters, paint suit and nitral gloves. this is not the industry standard, a fresh air hood is what the pros use, I am only doing 1 part at a time, spray and get out, usually 1 minute. I have 3, 20 in. box fans pulling out fumes filtered before the fans. I built the booth with 1" schedule 40 PVC, 200 feet. and 6 mil clear plastic, I changed out the filters to 4" thick ones to last longer, just sprayed the HS and elevators this morning. you can see a pic of booth construction on my build site under tips 2.21.11. Cheers!
 
One more thing, cover all of your skin!, this chemical is fat soluble, witch means that it get absorbed directly into your skin, and into your blood stream and bad bad bad.
 
I am in the painting process too...one alternate to making a booth is to line your garage walls with plastic. That worked well for me. I used a Citation 4 system for breathing and HVLP air and it worked great.
 
paint booth

Brett, are you pumping air into your booth or pumping it out? What type of filter are you using and are you using home depot box fans? Thanks for the previous post

Dave
 
I started with air pumped in and 3 fans sucking out, I took out the pusher fan, it was stirring up all kinds of debris in the booth, finding it better to gently evacuate the booth. I first started out with furnace filters but they clogged up too fast, got some industrial 4 inch thick ones and seam to work better, I am also hosing down the walls before clear coating, that helped a lot, and also if you are clear coating you got to do both sides in one sesion or else over spray gets on the dry side, using an engine stand now to turn the work over. A lot better to get a full wet coat of clear with no orange peel. Ill try and post a pic of the HS I did last night, it has a pic of the filters I am using, showing door inlet filter. Disclaimer: (I am no painter, this is my first try).

DSC01892.jpg
 
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