N282S

N282S

Well Known Member
It's almost time to paint over the sikaflex and frame. What would be the best kind/brand of rattle can paint to use over the sikaflex. I know some types won't cure.
 
Do NOT paint over sikaflex. It will absorb the solvents and the paint will not cure. You'll end up wiping the paint off several days later. I think the only type you could possibly use is water-based paints, but I wouldn't try that either.
 
Painting SikaFlex

Here is the data off the Tech sheet, it states it is paint able. You can get a detailed data sheet from Jamestown Dist, I think the say a polyurethane is a good choice, but I am not sure. I know many have painted it, so may you will get some pointers tomorrow. Good luck.CJ

  • Sika Flex 285UV Technical Specifications

  • Density</B>: 10 lbs per gal
  • Tack Free Time</B>: 50 min approximately
  • Rate of Cure</B>: 24 hours
  • Shore A Hardness (ASTM D2240) </B>: 35-40 at 77 deg F
  • Elongation at Break (ASTM D412) </B>: >500 percent
  • Tensile Strength (ASTM D412)</B>: Approx 450 PSI
  • Lap Shear Strength (ASTM D1002) </B>: Approx 250 PSI
  • E Modulus at 100% Elongation</B>: 70 PSI
  • Application Temperature</B>: 40F to 95 F
  • Service Range</B>: -40F to 195 F
  • Color</B>: Black, White
  • Sandable, paintable and is waterproof
  • Shelf life: 12 months
 
After pondering the choices, I think rather than trying poly I'm going to sand my Sika fillet and then apply a single bid of glass as a base. That will be filled and prepped like the rest of the 'glass parts.
 
I did . . .

lostpilot28 said:
Do NOT paint over sikaflex. It will absorb the solvents and the paint will not cure. You'll end up wiping the paint off several days later. I think the only type you could possibly use is water-based paints, but I wouldn't try that either.
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Hmmm...
I painted over Sikaflex both with waterborne (Stewart Systems) paint on my interior, and Imron on the exterior and both look fine a year later.
 
There are other threads that talk about this, but before I read those I used rattle-can primer/paint on sikaflex and it never dried. A few days later, while still waiting for it to dry, I wiped it off. The sikaflex didn't appear to be damaged, but I learned that solvent based paints are not to be used.

Now, as to the original posters question about using a "rattle can"...I know of none that are water-based.
 
I used the sikaflex primer over the cured sikaflex sealant and once dry painted over that with rattle can paint and it works fine. Without it would have been a mess as my test strip never dried
 
rvbruce said:
I used the sikaflex primer over the cured sikaflex sealant and once dry painted over that with rattle can paint and it works fine. Without it would have been a mess as my test strip never dried
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Rats! Wish I would have thought of that. I made the original post and since then found Ace hardware flat black lacquer worked. But I would have much rather used another color! Maybe down the road I can redo it.

Thanks for the tip.

Soon to be 283S
 
How Good does it stick?

rvbruce said:
I used the sikaflex primer over the cured sikaflex sealant and once dry painted over that with rattle can paint and it works fine. Without it would have been a mess as my test strip never dried
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Good to know Bruce- Which primer - the 209N or the 206G&P?

Did you do any testing to determine adhesion tenacity - i.e. aggressive scratching / scraping?
 
Paint cracking off Sikaflex

Yesterday I noticed a section of paint had cracked away from the Sikaflex around my canopy. On inspection it was clear it had never bonded, just hung on to the aluminium and perspex of the canopy on each side.

Has anyone else run into this, and better stil have a solution?
 
Steve Sampson said:
Yesterday I noticed a section of paint had cracked away from the Sikaflex around my canopy. On inspection it was clear it had never bonded, just hung on to the aluminium and perspex of the canopy on each side.
Has anyone else run into this, and better stil have a solution?
Click to expand...
What kind of paint did you use? I used Stewart Systems on the inside, and Imron on the outside and both seem just fine over a year and a half later.
 
SIKA is pretty flexible. I had been planning to use a latex paint, hand applied with a brush on the interior. The exterior join lines for the skirts are so thin I'm not going to worry about it. I'll just mask to protect the Plexi, and let the paint for the skirt cover the join line. I used white SIKA 295UV, because I forgot to check it when I bought it. I do want a UV coat over it.
I am now convinced to use my leftover SIKA 209 black primer, as stated in a previous post. It seems logical. Then coat it with latex (maybe, honestly I haven't got that far).
I'm getting ready to lay up a new rear to the left side canopy skirt. The right side fit great, but the left one needs a whole new back 1/4.
 
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