[DonFromTX]

I had heard horror stories of others drilling the holes in the stainless flaperon counterbalance tube. I decided to do it my way, and it worked out so well I thought I would share it. Harbor Freight Aviation Department has a cute little "automatic punch" for only $4.99 that makes it so easy. Go here to look at it: http://www.harborfreight.com/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.html
I put the punch in the center of the match drill hole location, snap it a couple of times, and a #40 drill centers in the punch mark and drills exactly where the punch was. I then drilled it to #30 size. Easy drilling with my Sioux air drill.

 

[E. D. Eliot]

Good Tool

I usually don't purchase any tools form HF but these are great and once in a while, they are on sale for $1.99, etc. Bought several a few years ago and they are still working well. See these same ones on e-bay for buy it now price of $9.99 some times. Must sell!

 

[Dgamble]

I had heard horror stories of others drilling the holes in the stainless flaperon counterbalance tube. I decided to do it my way, and it worked out so well I thought I would share it. Harbor Freight Aviation Department has a cute little "automatic punch" for only $4.99 that makes it so easy. Go here to look at it: http://www.harborfreight.com/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.html
I put the punch in the center of the match drill hole location, snap it a couple of times, and a #40 drill centers in the punch mark and drills exactly where the punch was. I then drilled it to #30 size. Easy drilling with my Sioux air drill.

I did the same and had no problems at all. It took me a couple of holes to realize that I needed to shorten up the bit to keep it from bending under high pressure, but after that they were cake.

 

[DaveWelch]

Automatic Punch

I did the same and had no problems at all. It took me a couple of holes to realize that I needed to shorten up the bit to keep it from bending under high pressure, but after that they were cake.

I've also found those auto punches useful in drilling out rivets in skin or thin metal. Works for both pulled and squeezed rivets.

First, for squeezed rivets, punch a dot on the rivet head, it'll help keep the bit from wandering. Then drill slowly until even with the near surface (if perfectly aligned, the head will come loose and spin with the bit). Use the punch again to drive the remainder of the rivet out thru the far side.

For pulled rivets, drill the Mfg head until it come loose, then use the auto punch to drive the body out. May take several series of "punches", but it'll usually drive it out. Better than risking denting the skin from excessive hammer force.

Buy a bunch they're cheap. I took one apart when the actuation got rough. Lubed it, reassembled, and it hasn't worked right since. LOL. Just toss it, or use the brass handle for something else.