txaviator

txaviator

Well Known Member
Sorry for the generalized nature of this question, but after searching the forums, I couldn't find any specific answers.

I have located some 0-320's of various model numbers. Most are in the 1600-2000 hour range. Seller makes a guarantee of no engines which have had prop strikes, been in floods/storms, etc. Also, most all have full logs with them.

With all this being said, what are your thoughts on an average overhaul cost? I know this question can take a million different directions as far as an answer, since the internal condition of the engines are unknown. However, I was told by the seller (a very reputable person, and a 45+ year friend of my grandfathers) that he checks all screens for metal, checks compressions, etc. In other words, all these engines are all taken out of aircraft (flying) where upgrades are requested. The seller then purchases the Lyc's from the companies performing the upgrades or conversions. He guarantees his engines to be fine, but like I mentioned, most are at (or slightly beyond) TBO.

In an ideal world, what are your thoughts on average overhaul costs? Machine shop work, gasket kits, etc., etc. I would most likely be doing the work myself (with the seller helping me out since he is an long time family friend). I am just looking for thoughts on best case and/or worst case scenarios for the costs involved.

Thanks for any input.
 
It could go in any direction but my data point is without actually digging up receipts I spent about $3500-4000 to overhaul mine (plus the engine core $3500). That is not including ignitions (I got an e-mag and p-mag). I disseassembled, took all parts to a very reputable shop and had them checked, yellow tagged, etc... I swapped them cylinders and some money for some good yellow tagged units. So, that cost included all the money for checking the parts (everything was good but lifter tappets which had very slight spalling and were a certain un-grindable part number so scraped), gasket set, new pistons and pins (engine is/was 150 HP E3D that I put 9:1 pistons in and needed the thicker wall piston pins), new oil pump housing and gears, etc...

Could not be a whole lot cheaper but could be a TON more. If all the major internal parts are ok (crank, case, cam, rods), then you can definitely save a lot of money and be every bit as well off. If internal parts are bad or you want new everything then the cost can get out of control quickly.

Scott
RV-9A - N598SD - ~90 hours
 
Second on above comments. I found a dirt-cheap O-320-E2D and upped it to 160 hp as described above. Also converted to CS prop operation. Essentially did a teardown inspection with some reconditioning work the first go-around. It ran another 800-hours. Then due to excessive blowby and concern for the concentricity of the cyls, I topped the engine with reconditioned Lycoming cylinders from Sentry. I'm about 90-hrs into that with very good success.

See the other engine comments popping up on the list. There are lots of possibilities to be explored under $10,000.
 
Thanks...

Thanks for the info, gentlemen. I am also searching through older (and new) posts and compiling all the data I can find. Much appreciated!
 
I think a primary driver is the condition of the crankshaft. If it turns out not to be serviceable that could add $3-4k to the price.

When I bought my engine in was in a similar situation to yours. It was spread out in pieces over some guys garage floor. I took an I/A friend with me and he was able to give me guidance on a) were all the pieces there, and b) which were likely to need to be replaced. I secured a guarantee from the seller that the crank would be serviceable. Turns out is was not, but he made good on the pledge.

All in all I overhauled it the first time* for about $6-7k. I basically sent the major pieces all over the country to get overhauled. The cylinders I took to a local shop. During trips to Oshkosh I picked up things like exhaust valves and oil pump impellers. At the end I took all the shiny pieces back to the IA and he did the assembly.

It was a great experience, more interesting to me than building the airframe.

John Allen
RV6

*I say "the first time", because somewhere in the process a 1/4-20 bolt got left in the induction system. At around the third runup that little piece of metal managed to travel to three of my cylinders. The replacement brand new cylinders from Lycoming ran me $5k. I believe the culprit was my toddler son. During the construction process his idea of helping Daddy was to find whatever FOD that was laying around the floor and stick it in whatever opening he could find.
 
fliier said:
*I say "the first time", because somewhere in the process a 1/4-20 bolt got left in the induction system. At around the third runup that little piece of metal managed to travel to three of my cylinders. The replacement brand new cylinders from Lycoming ran me $5k. I believe the culprit was my toddler son. During the construction process his idea of helping Daddy was to find whatever FOD that was laying around the floor and stick it in whatever opening he could find.
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Now that's pretty rough, John. Blaming the damage on your son!! ;)
 
Lowpass - you mentioned converting an O-320-E2D for a CS prop. What is required to make the conversion? Do you know if this is the same for all of the "- 2" or "- 3" engines? (i.e. O-320-A2A, -B2A, -E3D, etc)

Thanks
Chris
Scheming for an RV8
Cherokee 140 for now
 
Quick question. (Sortof)

Bryan, scott, and ken,

I have a question for the three of you. Apparently all three of you overhauled your engines yourself. Is this true? If so, are any of you A&Ps? I guess I just assumed that everyone had their engines overhauled professionally. It would be great to do that yourself, given you had the tools and apptitude to do so. I also assume that your engines are no longer certified? Fill me in here. I just got used to the idea of building my own airplane one day, never considered the fact that I might be able to do my own engine work as well.

Sorry for all the dumb questions, I'm just getting started with my PPL and I'm very green. Still have a lot of stupid questions to ask :rolleyes:

Thanks in advance.
 
RVAddict said:
Bryan, scott, and ken,

I have a question for the three of you. Apparently all three of you overhauled your engines yourself. Is this true? If so, are any of you A&Ps? I guess I just assumed that everyone had their engines overhauled professionally. It would be great to do that yourself, given you had the tools and apptitude to do so. I also assume that your engines are no longer certified? Fill me in here. I just got used to the idea of building my own airplane one day, never considered the fact that I might be able to do my own engine work as well.

Sorry for all the dumb questions, I'm just getting started with my PPL and I'm very green. Still have a lot of stupid questions to ask :rolleyes:

Thanks in advance.
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Not an A&P. Had some very good assistance from one, plus good advice and parts networking from others.

The engine's no longer certified. My engine didn't even come with logs. The seller wanted to try and minimize his liability so he kept them.

I made one major mistake. I didn't resurface the main seal area on the crank properly and the engine has had a seeping leak for 903 hrs and about 5 new seals. Very annoying, but just a fact. One of these days I'll split the case and send the crank out for a professional reconditioning.

This board is a pretty decent place for general information. Hang out at some small airports and find some of these old-time A&Ps to buddy up with. Most enjoy sharing their knowledge. With some of this insight and average or better mechanical aptitude you can do it.

But if you get the chance, just buy a good 750-1000 hr engine and don't mess with it. Overhaul it after another 500-1000 hrs of flying!

cwyatt257 - Re. the CS prop conversion, it's not a huge deal. There's quite a bit of good information on this board about the conversion. Just make sure the case will accomodate the oil line, the front main bearing is suitably sized (and ported properly), the crank will accomodate the oil ("plugged" and ported properly), the flange/flange lugs are appropriate for the prop and the accessory case will accomodate a governor.
 
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Ok, on the OX340 retro kit it shows 7.2:1 compression, how much horse power will that give you. The only hp info I can find on the web site is for the 9.0:1 compression and it shows it as 177 hp.


hmm.. with the lower compression and longer stroke + auto fuel + rebate for off road use, (so no fuel road tax in Texas), and to h*** with the faa proposed tax. = Could be a winner..
 
340

c177tx said:
Ok, on the OX340 retro kit it shows 7.2:1 compression, how much horse power will that give you. The only hp info I can find on the web site is for the 9.0:1 compression and it shows it as 177 hp.


hmm.. with the lower compression and longer stroke + auto fuel + rebate for off road use, (so no fuel road tax in Texas), and to h*** with the faa proposed tax. = Could be a winner..
Click to expand...

I spoke with Bob at ACS, the 340 in not really new technology. He states they were not common when Lycoming had their version out. Due to a vary limited quantity produced replacement part were expense. And as to auto fuel, I learned my lesson years ago burning auto fuel, not going there again!!!
 
ECI prices...

LifeofReiley said:
...
He states they were not common when Lycoming had their version out. Due to a vary limited quantity produced replacement part were expense.
...
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Darrell,

Maybe expen$ive from Lycoming...

But, from ECI -- $3475 for a new crank, 4 new connecting rods and 4 new pistons is not expensive in any other Lycoming (or clone) catalog/source I've seen....

I believe all other parts are the same as O-320 or O-360 parts...

gil in Tucson
 
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